Nibe Fighter 360p ashp costing me loads to run

ra200

I do understand where you are coming from as I know people with houses bigger than mind and their heating/hot water bills are less than half the price of ours, You can open doors and windows just not ideally for long periods of time what if some one rang the door bell they can not expect you to talk to them though the letter box,

The problems with the Nibe 360p as it is not a normal air to water heat pump like this one http://domesticheating.mitsubishielectric.co.uk/_products/the_range but a exhaust air to water heat pump and the problem is that as the Nibe 360p only has a small 0.65kw compressor and is constantly trying to extract the little about of energy available in the very tiny amount of exhaust air it sucks in then as it cannot cope as the compressor is to small it then uses the 7.2kw immersion this is where all the electricity goes to especially when it is cold now I have told and expanded this is layman’s terms to my housing association and I do not think they have taken this on board but I am 100% sure if when my house was build if they installed a real air to water air pump like this http://domesticheating.mitsubishielectric.co.uk/_products/the_range and not this Mickey Mouse joke of a exhaust air pump called the Nibe 360p I would not be moaning at them and I would not have high bills so melin can thank who ever sold them this nibe for the moaning they are having from tenant(s),


And just to confirm for anyone else reading this I am not saying the nibe 360p is too small for my house I am saying it has a tiny compressor and due to it also relying on the small amount of air it intakes it then uses the 7.2kw immersion ,

I really cannot see why my housing association did not have a real air to water heat pump like a Mitsubishi or Worcester or Delonghi etc installed and not this silly exhaust air pump I have installed now the only thing i can think of is that they where miss-sold which is not Melins fault or they stuck anything in to get code level 3 building code,

minxyjinx79 wrote: »

Hiya, yeah i will take a reading when i get back home, i am currently printing off as much info as i can at my fathers.

We are in a 3 bedroom property which is actually quite big, it has 3 floors, although it is quite big my sister in law lives in a bigger 5 bedroom house and her bills are over half of ours. I could totally understand if we were getting what we pay for, as in hot water, we dont ever have enough for a bath so its showers all round and my partner has had several operations on his ankles and finds it difficult to stand, thank you so much for your help, we are going to sweat it out this week and keep the windows in our room closed just to see if there is any difference atall.

sorry.... i appear to be rambling again...

ra200

How does every one find the noise of there nibe 360p I have very bad hearing problems and suffer from hyperacusis and at times I find the noise of the nibe 360p unbearable especially during the evenings and night time to the point the sometimes I have to turn it off my partner has perfect hearing and she says the nibe is loud so for some one with hyperacusis you can imagine how unbearable the noise of the nibe can become I have told my housing association about the noise of the nibe in the past when the visited on the 11th of January but nothing has come of it so far I have not brought it up in recent conversations due to the fact I do not usually like to draw attention to my hearing problems,
If you do not know what hyperacusis check below
http://www.hyperacusis.net/hyperacusis/what+is+hyperacusis/default.asp
http://www.deafnessresearch.org.uk/1630/hyperacusis/what-is-hyperacusis.html

minxyjinx79

hiya again... i think this is the right reading, like i said im a bit new to all this stuff... next to the I it has 14.56kw???? is that right?

our bedroom windows are open 100% of the time as we hate a hot bedroom, this is with the bedroom door always shut too... we have closed them tonight and my god its like a sauna in there already even with the radiator switched on 0...

in reference to your last post, we do find our heating system a bit noisey but not as noisey as our neighbours... hers sounds really bad... ours tends to vibrate alot

ra200

To read the electric meter is just taking note of the numbers on the display so for example if your meter reads 018302 then in 24 hours time it reads 018342 that would mean that you have used 40 units all you do then is go to your energy providers web site find what tariff you are on and then it will tell you how much per unit you are paying if it said 12p a unit then times that by the amount of units you have used so if it was 40units you have used that would be 40x12p plus any daily standard charge if you have one on your tariff,

With it being too hot it sounds like to heating curve is set to high so do you have a thermostat on the wall anywhere in the house if you do you need to turn it down a tiny bit if you do not have one you can turn it down on the dial on the front of the nibe by turning it down a bit just turn it down abit at a time and allow 2 hours before adjusting it down any more as it will take a bit of time for the temperature to adjust

minxyjinx79 wrote: »

hiya again... i think this is the right reading, like i said im a bit new to all this stuff... next to the I it has 14.56kw???? is that right?

our bedroom windows are open 100% of the time as we hate a hot bedroom, this is with the bedroom door always shut too... we have closed them tonight and my god its like a sauna in there already even with the radiator switched on 0...

in reference to your last post, we do find our heating system a bit noisey but not as noisey as our neighbours... hers sounds really bad... ours tends to vibrate alot

denial2010

I have to say since Nibe visited in early January, my heat pump has been running A LOT more efficently... And I'm generally pleased with the KW/h usage and cost now. To update you all on my case: I firmly put the problems of high running costs down to installation and comissioning rather than the units.

I also have to say Nibe UK have been brilliant about this, in particular their customer services manager. They have sent out a letter outlining the flaws made by the installation contractor which I can now pass onto the Housing Association / House Builder. My neighbours have had an independant survey which shares the same conclusion that the system has been incorrectly installed and comissioned. I believe the housing association have also surveyed the rented tennants too, but yet to hear the results of those. So all this will now get passed the house builder and they will have to do something. So things are looking up over in Sunny Suffolk (:.

denial2010

ra200 wrote: »

My Nibe 360p unit was set up almost right but the UFH was not set right right I have had to make a few adjustments like balancing the under floor heating and a few other tweaks now I have balanced the system all the room stats on the wall can be left open on full if needed now the system is balanced creating a open flow system and this has increased performance of the system as the wall stats are not always cutting in and out stopping the flow when the desired room temp was reached and this caused the problem of the floor cooling and reheating all the time and then creating a big lag of it reheating and due to the system not being balanced the floor downstairs used to get so hot one morning the downstairs temperature was 48.5c now it is balanced the downstairs floor is spot on I cannot believe none of this was not done before we moved in,


There are still a few issues we have in the house like droughts from under the skirting boards on outside walls and droughts from the bathroom from a big hole where the outlet pipe from the bath goes but nothing major,


But I am still not happy with the upstairs floor when the temp drops below 3c outside is struggles to maintain a warm temperature in the room most noticeable in the back bedroom and bathroom which is a disappointing because if the upstairs floor behaved in the same way as the downstairs screed floor our heating bill would drop by around 40% and I could drop the heating curve from 9 down to 5 as between February and May we would only need a bit of heating to heat the house then from May to September we would not need no heating on at all and then from September to end of October we would only need a bit of heat I put this down to a design flaw in the way the UFH upstairs has been installed and heat loss and droughts upstairs,


To put it in layman’s terms if our property was the same size 95m2 but was a bungalow (all one floor) and not a house so all the UFH was laid in screed floor our bills would be around 40% lower,

I think I am lucky they installed UFH and that they did not install radiators as installing radiators with the nibe 360p would be so silly and the heating curve would have to be set so much higher as radiators run at a much higher temperature than UFH it would have increased our running cost by around 45%,

I've just got radiators and the heat curve has come down to 5 from 13. With a -2 Setback during the day and overnight (when I'm not there or asleep). House is maintained to 19-20 degrees and 18-19 during setback periods. On the subject of balacing, mine wasn't balanced either. The Nibe Engineer had to do that. Again I put all this down to crap installation and comissioning! My system is now running at flow temperatures of 24 degrees (the lowest I've seen) and 32 degrees (the highest I've seen), so seems to be running very cool and efficent. Makes a big difference from the 45 - 55 degrees it was running at when it was costing a fortune! Also on the subject of radiators... I have ab-normally large ones to compensate!

Bassman43

I have only radiators too and have my heating curve set to 6 (was set to 13)with an offset curve of 0.I have set back times overnight and during the day of -4. The house is maintained at temp. of 19 to 20 degrees and 18 to 19 during the set back periods too. I have my downstairs and upstairs radiator TRVs set to 3.

I am not sure about the balancing, how does that work?

My system is running at flow temperatures of 24 to 33 degrees and as Denial2010 says seems much more efficient than the 45 to 55 degrees that the system was commissioned at.
My daily Kwh usage for the whole house is now averaging out at 30 Kwh per day. The best efficiency that I have had yet is 16 Kwh when we have had an outside temperature of 12 degrees centigrade.

I totally agree that these systems need commissioning correctly. The end users need to be advised on the efficient use of the systems too.
Only by daily monitoring and adjustment have I been able to get Kwh consumption down to current levels.

Many thanks to you guys also for all of your valuable information on your systems and settings.

I hope this will be of use to some more users of this heating system.

denial2010

Bassman43 wrote: »

I have only radiators too and have my heating curve set to 6 (was set to 13)with an offset curve of 0.I have set back times overnight and during the day of -4. The house is maintained at temp. of 19 to 20 degrees and 18 to 19 during the set back periods too. I have my downstairs and upstairs radiator TRVs set to 3.

I am not sure about the balancing, how does that work?

My system is running at flow temperatures of 24 to 33 degrees and as Denial2010 says seems much more efficient than the 45 to 55 degrees that the system was commissioned at.
My daily Kwh usage for the whole house is now averaging out at 30 Kwh per day. The best efficiency that I have had yet is 16 Kwh when we have had an outside temperature of 12 degrees centigrade.

I totally agree that these systems need commissioning correctly. The end users need to be advised on the efficient use of the systems too.
Only by daily monitoring and adjustment have I been able to get Kwh consumption down to current levels.

Many thanks to you guys also for all of your valuable information on your systems and settings.

I hope this will be of use to some more users of this heating system.

I believe all radiator valves need to be set to fully on or maximum not to inhibit the system. I swear I remember reading that in the manual somewhere. By the way, my room balancing was increased from 1.0 to 3.0. If thats any help?

caitygeorge123

Hi,

Reading through all these posts and it seems we all have so much in common!
We moved into our new build propery in November and yep you've guessed it had soo many issues with our heating system including electricity bills of £200 per month! ( would like to add we live in a 3 bed and both my husband and I wirk full time so no one is the property for the majority of the week)
So normal procedure have complained and things seems to be getting investigated and hopefully sorted.

The latest is my main concern though - we had a Nibe engineer out today and has advised the whole system is incorrectly installed including all the vents.
The ones in our bedroom and lounge pump out cold air - but mainly the one in the smallest bedroom which is pumping 'unfiltered' air at the outside temperature quite strongly.
This concerns me as this is my 4 year old daughters bedroom and she has been suffering from continual chest infections since a few weeks after us moving in to the point that she this week she is now having chest xrays and hospital tests(awaiting results).

She has never suffered from anything like this before and wondering if this is too coincidential??
If it has been pumping the same temp as outside then with the winter we have just had that could be -12/13 degrees etc?

When I mentioned this to the engineers and electricians they wouldn't comment - am I thinking too much into this or has anyone else experienced chest infections/ illnesses with this system??

ra200

Are you sure you have the nibe 360p as the nibe 360p only has exhaust air intakes which should be installed in the warmest rooms in the house like the shower room and kitchen and these suck in air and do not output it are you sure you do not have another model of nibe air pump, The nibe 360p should be good for your health as it sucks out the stale air by using mechanical extraction,