Nibe Fighter 360p ashp costing me loads to run

lovesfarmbpha

jamieleebridge wrote: »

So if the heat pump isn't functioning then we shouldn't get any heat in the radiators. I left the fan off this morning, increased the heat curve and increased the thermostat to see what would happen. The flat was warm by the time the missus woke up and said the radiators were all definitely on.

So what would have been making them warm if the heat pumps not working?

We were told when were moving in that we would be shown how to use the boiler by an engineer who would make sure we had it setup correctly, I was at work that day so missed the chance to question him on the functions. The missus has baby brain so doesn't remember half of what he said!

Ok will try to explain....the circulation pump constantly runs on these units and that is what sends the warm water around all of your radiators......most boilers have an interlock so when ,lets say your house reaches 21C( or what ever temp you wanted...we say 21C because anything above that the NIBE heat pump police jump out and say we should all be wearing jumpers indoors and huddling together etc etc )
, the boiler switches off certain parts as not to waste energy... unfortunately the NIBEs do not have a boiler interlock system.
If you switch off the fans the heat pump does not operate and will call on the immersion element to back up the hot water and heating if you have it in winter mode or if you have the xhw on .....
The heat pump should not be confused with the circulation pump...
The heat pump does the "magic" or not
The circulation pump sends the hotwater around your homes radiators...
You can see when the circulation pump is on on the display ist the arrow/triangle pointing right in a circle...on the top right of the display...its always on when you are in heating mode i.e autumn.spring & winter.
The heat pump has a sign on the display on the top left and its two lines within a circle....you can tell when this is working because its that rumbling noise you can hear that shakes the house...:)

lovesfarmbpha

http://www.facebook.com/Heatpumppeople

grahamc2003

jamieleebridge wrote: »

So if the heat pump isn't functioning then we shouldn't get any heat in the radiators. I left the fan off this morning, increased the heat curve and increased the thermostat to see what would happen. The flat was warm by the time the missus woke up and said the radiators were all definitely on.

So what would have been making them warm if the heat pumps not working?

We were told when were moving in that we would be shown how to use the boiler by an engineer who would make sure we had it setup correctly, I was at work that day so missed the chance to question him on the functions. The missus has baby brain so doesn't remember half of what he said!

There are only two ways of getting heat into your rads, and that is from the heatpump itself or from electric elements within the heat pump system. If the heatpump itself was off, then the heat came from the immersion (which is what you don't want), using either 3, 8, 9 or 13.5kW depending on settings iirc (costing you typically 36p/96p/£1.08/£1.62 per hour respectively for the time the elements were actually on).

But you turned the hp off, and you asked for heat, so it looks to me like the system carried out your instructions - albeit doing something you probably didn't really want if you knew the implications of your instructions to the system.

I think I'm correct in saying that another way of ensuring the HP itself doesn't start is by having the exhaust temperature (effectively your room temperature) below 16C (can anyone confirm?). If so, that means, if your house is cold and you turn the Nibe on, all the heating comes from the electric elements, until the room air reaches 16C, when the hp will startup and the elements presumably shut off, and you'll then get cheap heating (theoretically).

On another point, according to the operations manual, the unit sometimes exhausts room temperature air (when the compressor is off for some reason), but when on, the air leaving the house should typically be around 0C.

One problem here is that the operation of the heat pump can be changed dramatically by the many and varied settings available to users. Don't expect any installation engineers to know any more than the default settings - they certainly won't know the implications of changing various settings after a one day Nibe course in my opinion, which probably just covers what connections and to what torque settings a plumber should make.

jamieleebridge

Thanks for all the help guys. Well the heat in the rad's the other morning is going down as unexplained. The fan's were off and the immersion is off (power usage also suggests that this never kicked in).

Ive changed settings gradually each day over the bank holiday weekend. Were currently at roughly 18-19kw consumption a day with the spring/autumn setting, apartments staying at a decent constant temperature. Im thinking this will be the best we will get from this.

I also found a small manual for the nibe in my welcome bits and pieces, the main thing i took from this was to only change settings by 1 to 2 degrees a day in order stop high energy consumption.

T_Wilson

I have just moved into a house with one of these ballbags and have no idea how to get any heat out of it. Even in winter mode, with the temperature knocked right up all i get is luke warm temp.

any ideas y'all?

jasonoldy69

T_Wilson wrote: »

I have just moved into a house with one of these ballbags and have no idea how to get any heat out of it. Even in winter mode, with the temperature knocked right up all i get is luke warm temp.

any ideas y'all?

Firstly, you only need it in Spring/Autumn mode at this time of year.

How long have you given it to warm up?

If you're a shared-owner or tenant of a housing association, your best option is to get in touch with them and get them to come out to, at least, get it working.

But generally, you'll notice you won't get a lot of heat, especially in Winter, and your electric bills will rocket.

http://nibefighter360p.somee.com

grahamc2003

T_Wilson wrote: »

I have just moved into a house with one of these ballbags and have no idea how to get any heat out of it. Even in winter mode, with the temperature knocked right up all i get is luke warm temp.

any ideas y'all?

From the user manual (you do have one don't you?).

Room temperature too low

- Circuit or main MCB tripped.
- Possible earth circuit-breaker tripped.
- MCB (7) tripped.
- Tripped temperature limiter (6). (Contact service).
- Incorrect values for the parameters Max. supply temp. (menu 2.5), Heating curve (menu 2.1) or Offset heating curve (menu 2.2).
- Circulation pump (16) stopped.
- Air in boiler or system.
- Initial pressure in expansion vessel too low.

T_Wilson

jasonoldy69 wrote: »

Firstly, you only need it in Spring/Autumn mode at this time of year.

How long have you given it to warm up?

If you're a shared-owner or tenant of a housing association, your best option is to get in touch with them and get them to come out to, at least, get it working.

But generally, you'll notice you won't get a lot of heat, especially in Winter, and your electric bills will rocket.

http://nibefighter360p.somee.com

I'm a tenant of a private lanlord. I've got it in summer mode at the moment as it seems to be ambient temperature. It was the week that i moved in. It was still fairly chilly in Manchester so thought I'd have a quick blast on the heating and the radiator only got to luke warm despite full winter mode and dial cranked right up. Given the building is less than a year old i can;t imagine the rediator needs bleeding.

Can anyone explain in plain english what offset /curve means?

Assume I'm an idiot (I am an idiot)

lovesfarmbpha

T_Wilson wrote: »

I'm a tenant of a private lanlord. I've got it in summer mode at the moment as it seems to be ambient temperature. It was the week that i moved in. It was still fairly chilly in Manchester so thought I'd have a quick blast on the heating and the radiator only got to luke warm despite full winter mode and dial cranked right up. Given the building is less than a year old i can;t imagine the rediator needs bleeding.

Can anyone explain in plain english what offset /curve means?

Assume I'm an idiot (I am an idiot)

Hello 1stly the radiators will never get hot like a gas system as they are meant to run at a lower temp...on your systme its called the flowrate...the dial on your NIBE...in the middle of the 2 buttons...(assuming youhave a 205,360 or 200 model)...we have found you can best control your homes temp from this...you should need no more than a flowrate of 40C....but we can warm our house with between 27C and 33C.....its a very good idea to buy an electric monitor with temp indicator so you can double check what your using and the temp of the home as we have found the temps on the unit not true...by 1 or 2 C...

lovesfarmbpha

lovesfarmbpha wrote: »

Hello 1stly the radiators will never get hot like a gas system as they are meant to run at a lower temp...on your systme its called the flowrate...the dial on your NIBE...in the middle of the 2 buttons...(assuming youhave a 205,360 or 200 model)...we have found you can best control your homes temp from this...you should need no more than a flowrate of 40C....but we can warm our house with between 27C and 33C.....its a very good idea to buy an electric monitor with temp indicator so you can double check what your using and the temp of the home as we have found the temps on the unit not true...by 1 or 2 C...

sorry in between the 3 buttons