Air Source Heat Pumps

zeupater

Geotherm wrote: »

I try to keep things on the lighter side!! Would have thought the Grant engineer would have stayed longer to make sure that everything was working within the system capability., eg hot water through the entire house and heating working to spec.I spend hours making sure everything is running to specification before I leave a client if there is a problem.

Hi

I would presume that the manufacturer would be in a pretty complicated position regarding permission to perform any work on the system seeing that it's a newbuild rented house, so there's the likely issue of involving the landlord, the developer, the main contractor, and the subcontracted ASHP installer.

HTH
Z

Harryo

Lower temp of outlets could be due to thermostatic mixing valves. Required on baths and bidets in Scotland and baths in England under the Building Regs. Also required on baisns and showers if designed for elderly or disabled for Housing Associations and generally recommended for all other properties. All outlets will presuamably be served from the same cylinder and thus immersion heater. Therefore the only other explanation of lower temps is if excessive heat is being lost from the HWS flow pipe. If that is the case though you would get the same temperature water discharge if you let the taps run for a few minutes.

Baz@rr

Just a quick post, but we're still plagued by problems here, so will fill you in properly later today when I have more time. Let's just say the -4 temps we've been having up here over the past few days have not done us any favours.

Anyway, this may be a really stupid question - my knowledge of plumbing systems is barely more than zero - but should the flow pipe into the hot water storage tank be getting hot if we don't have the hot water switched on?

I noticed yesterday that when the heating is on the flow pope into the cylinder gets warm. It's not HOT, but it's significantly warmer than when the heating isn't on. We can also feel a reasonable level of warmth in the water when we run it, despite not having had anything set to heat the hot water in about 48 hours.

Is this normal??

heatpumps

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TiredGeek

Baz@rr wrote: »

Anyway, this may be a really stupid question - my knowledge of plumbing systems is barely more than zero - but should the flow pipe into the hot water storage tank be getting hot if we don't have the hot water switched on?

I noticed yesterday that when the heating is on the flow pope into the cylinder gets warm. It's not HOT, but it's significantly warmer than when the heating isn't on. We can also feel a reasonable level of warmth in the water when we run it, despite not having had anything set to heat the hot water in about 48 hours.

Is this normal??

I think they've got something wrong with the pipes or there's a valve not working properly.
Some warmth to the pipe would be normal, purely due to heat transfer in the copper pipe. You'd notice the pipe would be not cold to touch but there should not be water flowing through it when the heating is on, and you certainly shouldn't be able to detect warm water at the taps if you haven't had DHW specifically heated for a couple of days.
If it is indeed managing to heat the DHW cylinder while in central heating mode then either there's a valve stuck open allowing the heating water to circulate through the coil in the DHW cylinder, or worse still, there is no valve and they've mucked up the plumbing.
In the pictures I can see some zone valves (the white boxes on the pipes) but I can't tell what they're for without being able to see all the pipework and figure out what does what...
They'll have a little lever on them somewhere, make sure it's not locked in the "manual" position, it should be in "auto" (move the lever, there should be resistance and it should return to it's position).

PS: no question is stupid - it's how you learn things

rohouk

I have a dismy air source heat pump. In the last 5 weeks it has been failing to provide heat to the house and the water is tepid at best. I have been trying to find an engineer that will come out and look at the pump but drawn a blank. The company that supplied the system no longer supply the make and will not help. I have been advised that the nearest engineer is based 300 miles away. Any part need to come from China and have a ten week lead in period minimum. So i have effectively no heat for the rest of the winter rest. I have been to the agent for dismy in England and had no help. Can anyone give me any guidance on this?

lovesgshp

Model, house size, rads or UFH, hot water temp?
Presume this is the company:
http://www.dismy.co.uk/Dismy--aboutus.html

rohouk

I have a dismy 15kw ashp . Heating is underfloor wet system. I have two solar panels supporting the water system. House is 6 bed detached built 2 1/2 yrs ago. Tried nhbc but not able to help.

The main control panel implies that the system is constantly in defrost mode. The one person i could get to look at it has stated that he thinks possibly the heat exchanger has gone but can't be sure as the compressor is not running either.

lovesgshp

rohouk wrote: »

I have a dismy 15kw ashp . Heating is underfloor wet system. I have two solar panels supporting the water system. House is 6 bed detached built 2 1/2 yrs ago. Tried nhbc but not able to help.

The main control panel implies that the system is constantly in defrost mode. The one person i could get to look at it has stated that he thinks possibly the heat exchanger has gone but can't be sure as the compressor is not running either.

Will have a look at the manual on the dismy site. Unfortunately, being Chinese and the UK supplier not having parts, you may be stuck with the parts wait.
Solar panel heat output will be low for this time of year. Is there not a back-up electric heating element, that you can resort to for the DHW?

lovesgshp

Can you give a list of any fault codes, under the C1 menu listing? The manual is typical Chinese and confusing.