Poor TV internet signal

Jenni_D

getmore4less said:

Arsenal2019 said:

getmore4less said:

passthrough should be rated 13a 

If not don't use a 13a fused extension lead


Going to have to run the network cable if a powerline does not perform in the extension lead(it might if lucky)
Or get a WiFi one.

If you know someone with the kit could you borrow to try?

Sorry, I don’t quite follow you. I have attached a link to the power line adapter I am thinking of buying in this text. In regards to the extension cable, it is just a generic 4plug extension from Asda. https://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/computing-accessories/networking/powerline/tp-link-tl-pa7017p-powerline-adapter-kit-twin-pack-10218370-pdt.html

Why buy one that won't fit in the wall socket.
if it does not work in the extension you will want to try it in the socket and run a cable from there.

Look for those where the plug/socket are at the bottom so it fits in the wall.

Are you confusing threads? Was it not @elsien's thread which said about the low wall sockets?

Apologies if it's me that's confused.

Jenni_D

Deleted_User said:

Jenni_D said:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-TL-PA7017P-KIT-Passthrough-Configuration/dp/B089DKK2K7/ ... £37.60 on Amazon currently

The point about rating was ... if the passthrough won't support 13A then don't have a 13A fuse in the extension lead plug. (Looking at the specs of that twin pack then 13A passthrough should be OK)

Not sure what this point was all about, if the device wasn't rated to passthrough the full 13amp then it would be required to have the appropriate fuse in it for the rating of the allowable passthrough - so for example it could only passthrough 10amp, then it would be required to have a 10 amp fuse installed under electrical regulations to protect the part of the downstream passthrough circuit that was rated for 10 amps.

So if it was rated and fused for 10 amps, plugging a 4 way extension lead into the powerline passthrough that for example had a 13 amp fuse would make no difference whatsoever because it is already protected by a 10 amp fuse upstream.

Because this powerline adaptor can pass through the maximum 13 amps it doesn't need a fuse because that is the max allowed anyway.

Changing the downstream fuse in the extension lead plug makes no difference whatsoever in any scenario and this whole debate about the fuse is totally pointless and only serves to unnecessarily complicate something that is really simple.

Assuming the passthrough device has a fuse ... you think a typical wall socket has a fuse?

You may be correct - but looking at photos of the adaptor then the fuse is certainly not user-accessible. You could also have made your point without the passive-aggressive condescendence.

[Deleted User]

Jenni_D said:

Assuming the passthrough device has a fuse ... you think a typical wall socket has a fuse?

Of course it doesn't because the socket itself must be rated for 13 amps (BS1363) for each outlet and the plug that goes into the socket must have a fuse under electrical regulations that is appropriate for the rating of all of the electrical circuits downstream from the plug - the maximum being 13 amps which is exactly what a socket must be rated for so there is never a need for a fuse in a socket because nothing will ever be connected that draws more than the rating for the socket.

As I said previously, if the passthrough device is rated less than 13 amps it would be required under electrical regulations to have a fuse for the rating it can passthrough and therefore any downstream fuse of a higher value are irrelevant.

If it can passthrough 13 amps, then it doesn't need a fuse - it is not that the fuse is inaccessible to the user - it doesn't have one or need one.

Arsenal2019

[Deleted User] said:

Jenni_D said:

Assuming the passthrough device has a fuse ... you think a typical wall socket has a fuse?

Seriously?

Of course it doesn't because the socket itself must be rated for 13 amps (BS1363) for each outlet and the plug that goes into the socket must have a fuse under electrical regulations that is appropriate for the rating of all of the electrical circuits downstream from the plug - the maximum being 13 amps which is exactly what a socket must be rated for so there is never a need for a fuse in a socket because nothing will ever be connected that draws more than the rating for the socket.

As I said previously, if the passthrough device is rated less than 13 amps it would be required under electrical regulations to have a fuse for the rating it can passthrough and therefore any downstream fuse of a higher value are irrelevant.

If it can passthrough 13 amps, then it doesn't need a fuse - it is not that the fuse is inaccessible to the user - it doesn't have one or need one.

Right- so what you two are getting at, is that I should be absolutely fine with plugging that power line adapter (one I attached) into the extension cable?

And FYI, The other power line adapter (as it comes in pack of two) will be downstairs plugged directly into the wall as I have more plug sockets down there 

[Deleted User]

Arsenal2019 said:

[Deleted User] said:

Jenni_D said:

Assuming the passthrough device has a fuse ... you think a typical wall socket has a fuse?

Seriously?

Of course it doesn't because the socket itself must be rated for 13 amps (BS1363) for each outlet and the plug that goes into the socket must have a fuse under electrical regulations that is appropriate for the rating of all of the electrical circuits downstream from the plug - the maximum being 13 amps which is exactly what a socket must be rated for so there is never a need for a fuse in a socket because nothing will ever be connected that draws more than the rating for the socket.

As I said previously, if the passthrough device is rated less than 13 amps it would be required under electrical regulations to have a fuse for the rating it can passthrough and therefore any downstream fuse of a higher value are irrelevant.

If it can passthrough 13 amps, then it doesn't need a fuse - it is not that the fuse is inaccessible to the user - it doesn't have one or need one.

Right- so what you two are getting at, is that I should be absolutely fine with plugging that power line adapter (one I attached) into the extension cable?

And FYI, The other power line adapter (as it comes in pack of two) will be downstairs plugged directly into the wall as I have more plug sockets down there 

Right, so in terms of electrical load etc you can plug your passthrough powerline adaptor in wherever you want.

However in terms of your network connectivity over power lines, then all manufacturers of powerline adaptors recommend plugging them directly into the wall socket only. You can plug it into an extension cable, it will be safe and will probably work but could be at reduced speed as the extension lead can introduce further electrical interference that could affect the data transmission.

So it would be recommended for best performance that you to plug your passthrough powerline adaptor into the wall socket then plug the extension lead into the powerline adaptor.

Because it is passthrough, you are not losing a socket by putting it in the wall so I can't see any reason why you wouldn't do that?

Arsenal2019

[Deleted User] said:

Arsenal2019 said:

[Deleted User] said:

Jenni_D said:

Assuming the passthrough device has a fuse ... you think a typical wall socket has a fuse?

Seriously?

Of course it doesn't because the socket itself must be rated for 13 amps (BS1363) for each outlet and the plug that goes into the socket must have a fuse under electrical regulations that is appropriate for the rating of all of the electrical circuits downstream from the plug - the maximum being 13 amps which is exactly what a socket must be rated for so there is never a need for a fuse in a socket because nothing will ever be connected that draws more than the rating for the socket.

As I said previously, if the passthrough device is rated less than 13 amps it would be required under electrical regulations to have a fuse for the rating it can passthrough and therefore any downstream fuse of a higher value are irrelevant.

If it can passthrough 13 amps, then it doesn't need a fuse - it is not that the fuse is inaccessible to the user - it doesn't have one or need one.

Right- so what you two are getting at, is that I should be absolutely fine with plugging that power line adapter (one I attached) into the extension cable?

And FYI, The other power line adapter (as it comes in pack of two) will be downstairs plugged directly into the wall as I have more plug sockets down there 

Right, so in terms of electrical load etc you can plug your passthrough powerline adaptor in wherever you want.

However in terms of your network connectivity over power lines, then all manufacturers of powerline adaptors recommend plugging them directly into the wall socket only. You can plug it into an extension cable, it will be safe and will probably work but could be at reduced speed as the extension lead can introduce further electrical interference that could affect the data transmission.

So it would be recommended for best performance that you to plug your passthrough powerline adaptor into the wall socket then plug the extension lead into the powerline adaptor.

Because it is passthrough, you are not losing a socket by putting it in the wall so I can't see any reason why you wouldn't do that?

I gotcha! That makes perfect sense. Thank you very much for that!! 

getmore4less

Jenni_D said:

getmore4less said:

Arsenal2019 said:

getmore4less said:

passthrough should be rated 13a 

If not don't use a 13a fused extension lead


Going to have to run the network cable if a powerline does not perform in the extension lead(it might if lucky)
Or get a WiFi one.

If you know someone with the kit could you borrow to try?

Sorry, I don’t quite follow you. I have attached a link to the power line adapter I am thinking of buying in this text. In regards to the extension cable, it is just a generic 4plug extension from Asda. https://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/computing-accessories/networking/powerline/tp-link-tl-pa7017p-powerline-adapter-kit-twin-pack-10218370-pdt.html

Why buy one that won't fit in the wall socket.
if it does not work in the extension you will want to try it in the socket and run a cable from there.

Look for those where the plug/socket are at the bottom so it fits in the wall.

Are you confusing threads? Was it not @elsien's thread which said about the low wall sockets?

Apologies if it's me that's confused.

thanks me getting muddled again