Concrete guttering

David_Aldred

Hi,
You say the guttering needs replacing but do not indicate the reason ? Is it because of leakage or is the concrete itself degrading to the point of failure?

Leaking gutters of this type can be re-lined with various materials such as bitumen, lead, fibreglass, polymer coatings etc. The substrate preparation is very important as are the joints to any lining system to ensure the gutters are free of leakage and maintain falls sufficient to provide a self cleansing velocity.

When the gutters leak and this results in dampness migrating through to rooms it should be remembered that the rate of drying down will at best be only around 25mm thickness per month so the area may well take over a year to dry down once the leak has been resolved and the damp plaster may well not recover.

Even if you resolve any leak you should also bear in mind that the area of the gutters has a greater thermal conductivity than other parts of the wall and often there is concrete lintel above the windows just below these gutters to make the area even colder. As a result the area is prone to condensation not only on the plaster surface but also within the depth of the area itself and this condensation can make the area very damp indeed with associated mould often mistaken for leakage.

First things first - if you cannot get up to the gutter areas yourself get somebody competant who can with a video and film the entire area so you can see for yourself problems. If you retain the concrete gutters (as you might well have to if you are mid terraced) and have them lined pick the material that will be without leakage within your budget for the time you expect to remain in the house. Again have all work done up there filmed / photographed so you can see what has been exposed / done withy particular attention to joints and substrate preperation plus any making good of the concrete itself with repair mortar if it is degrading and any breathable surface coatings then applied to the other exposed faces of the gutter to keep the weather out.

Any replacement plaster needs to be to a waterproof grade but preferably waterproof grade dry lining systems with appropriate insulation and vapour barriers would be preferable to simple re-plastering as this will make the decorative surface warmer and less prone to condensation / mould.

Not exhaustive and particular cases may well require the above general comments to be revised such that they should not be acted upon but hope this helps as general info. Kindest regards, David Aldred Independent damp and timber surveyor.

sussie

David_Aldred wrote: »

Hi,
You say the guttering needs replacing but do not indicate the reason ? Is it because of leakage or is the concrete itself degrading to the point of failure?

Leaking gutters of this type can be re-lined with various materials such as bitumen, lead, fibreglass, polymer coatings etc. The substrate preparation is very important as are the joints to any lining system to ensure the gutters are free of leakage and maintain falls sufficient to provide a self cleansing velocity.

When the gutters leak and this results in dampness migrating through to rooms it should be remembered that the rate of drying down will at best be only around 25mm thickness per month so the area may well take over a year to dry down once the leak has been resolved and the damp plaster may well not recover.

Even if you resolve any leak you should also bear in mind that the area of the gutters has a greater thermal conductivity than other parts of the wall and often there is concrete lintel above the windows just below these gutters to make the area even colder. As a result the area is prone to condensation not only on the plaster surface but also within the depth of the area itself and this condensation can make the area very damp indeed with associated mould often mistaken for leakage.

First things first - if you cannot get up to the gutter areas yourself get somebody competant who can with a video and film the entire area so you can see for yourself problems. If you retain the concrete gutters (as you might well have to if you are mid terraced) and have them lined pick the material that will be without leakage within your budget for the time you expect to remain in the house. Again have all work done up there filmed / photographed so you can see what has been exposed / done withy particular attention to joints and substrate preperation plus any making good of the concrete itself with repair mortar if it is degrading and any breathable surface coatings then applied to the other exposed faces of the gutter to keep the weather out.

Any replacement plaster needs to be to a waterproof grade but preferably waterproof grade dry lining systems with appropriate insulation and vapour barriers would be preferable to simple re-plastering as this will make the decorative surface warmer and less prone to condensation / mould.

Not exhaustive and particular cases may well require the above general comments to be revised such that they should not be acted upon but hope this helps as general info. Kindest regards, David Aldred Independent damp and timber surveyor.

Hello David, Firstly many thanks for your quick response. I'll tell you a little more about our problem. It's a bungalow with UPvc windows and the concrete guttering goes immediately across the windows with no brick or other concrete lintel in between. We had them lead lined approximately 10 years ago but the seals keep breaking down. My husband keeps them clear of any debris and clears out constantly throughout the year. We think the only solution to this problem is doing what your mother-in-law did but we're obviously anxious about any disturbance inside the property. As you will be aware the other half of the guttering comes into the house, which is presumably left in place. If it isn't then all the ceilings would have to come down to take it out. What a mess that would be!

Any further advice you (or anyone else reading this) can supply would be most appreciated. Regards, Sussie

ormus

from another website re finlock gutters.

1.
The proper technique for fixing them is to cut off a suitable amount (the extent of overhang from roof tiles varies), attach wooden fascia boards, then attach UPVC fascia board that wrap around the base of the wooden boards.
2.
Lift the first row of tiles and attach 1cm continuous eave vents to the top of the fascia - these are hidden by the tiles/guttering, but are essential for roof ventilation
3.
Replace roof tiles, then attach suitable guttering - extruded aluminium or pvc plastic gutters, though this choice is the least of your worries.


or if youre feeling very wealthy and wish to retain the finlock system. (must be mad).
http://www.finlock-concretegutters.co.uk/

sussie

Message for Ormus: You don't know anyone who removes of Finlock Gutters do you? Obviously it's a tricky job so would need to be a specialist. We are in South Yorkshire. Anyone out there who knows anyone please get in touch. Regards, Sussie

sussie

David_Aldred wrote: »

Hi,
You say the guttering needs replacing but do not indicate the reason ? Is it because of leakage or is the concrete itself degrading to the point of failure?

Leaking gutters of this type can be re-lined with various materials such as bitumen, lead, fibreglass, polymer coatings etc. The substrate preparation is very important as are the joints to any lining system to ensure the gutters are free of leakage and maintain falls sufficient to provide a self cleansing velocity.

When the gutters leak and this results in dampness migrating through to rooms it should be remembered that the rate of drying down will at best be only around 25mm thickness per month so the area may well take over a year to dry down once the leak has been resolved and the damp plaster may well not recover.

Even if you resolve any leak you should also bear in mind that the area of the gutters has a greater thermal conductivity than other parts of the wall and often there is concrete lintel above the windows just below these gutters to make the area even colder. As a result the area is prone to condensation not only on the plaster surface but also within the depth of the area itself and this condensation can make the area very damp indeed with associated mould often mistaken for leakage.

First things first - if you cannot get up to the gutter areas yourself get somebody competant who can with a video and film the entire area so you can see for yourself problems. If you retain the concrete gutters (as you might well have to if you are mid terraced) and have them lined pick the material that will be without leakage within your budget for the time you expect to remain in the house. Again have all work done up there filmed / photographed so you can see what has been exposed / done withy particular attention to joints and substrate preperation plus any making good of the concrete itself with repair mortar if it is degrading and any breathable surface coatings then applied to the other exposed faces of the gutter to keep the weather out.

Any replacement plaster needs to be to a waterproof grade but preferably waterproof grade dry lining systems with appropriate insulation and vapour barriers would be preferable to simple re-plastering as this will make the decorative surface warmer and less prone to condensation / mould.

Not exhaustive and particular cases may well require the above general comments to be revised such that they should not be acted upon but hope this helps as general info. Kindest regards, David Aldred Independent damp and timber surveyor.

Hello David, You wouldn't happen to know anyone who does this specialist type of work for Finlock or Concrete (as they call them on this site) gutters do you? Regards, Sussie

David_Aldred

Hi Sussie,
Sorry for the delay in responding - I do not know these contractors so cannot vouch for them but as they specialise in finlock gutter removal you might want to consider at least giving them a ring to discuss:

http://www.tlg-gutter.co.uk/

Kindest regards, David

ormus

sussie wrote: »

Message for Ormus: You don't know anyone who removes of Finlock Gutters do you? Obviously it's a tricky job so would need to be a specialist. We are in South Yorkshire. Anyone out there who knows anyone please get in touch. Regards, Sussie

no sorry not any more. my cousin used to do it but hes now retired to his narrowboat on the canal.
he might (odd occasion) do a small job locally, but he wont travel very far at all.

sussie

ormus wrote: »

no sorry not any more. my cousin used to do it but hes now retired to his narrowboat on the canal.
he might (odd occasion) do a small job locally, but he wont travel very far at all.

Thanks for the prompt reply. I'll keep trying. Susie

JW_Builders

Finlock gutters have two valleys one on the outside of the property, one internal if water is getting into the internal you get a damp patch inside the property.

There is a liner you can get which lines the external gutter and under under the tiles and felt about 1m high from gutter height.

Costs about £45 per meter + scaffold costs

sussie

JW_Builders wrote: »

Finlock gutters have two valleys one on the outside of the property, one internal if water is getting into the internal you get a damp patch inside the property.

There is a liner you can get which lines the external gutter and under under the tiles and felt about 1m high from gutter height.

Costs about £45 per meter + scaffold costs[/

Thank-you for your reply but we've had it lead lined around 10 years ago and 3 or four rows of roof tiles were removed and the lead put underneath and then lined the gutter. It's the seals that keep breaking down so I think we're looking to try and remove them all together. I just need a competent/specialist person to do it. Regards, Sussie