Radiators are hot but the heating is not on

macman

You'd be wasting gas circulating hot water around a circuit where it's not required. So you need to get it fixed if you can't DIY. It's a 20 minute job either way, all the advice given has been spot on.

dantheman2010

But surely I wont be spending as much money in wasted gas as I would be paying a plumber? Or am I wrong. The DIY stuff I dont mind attempting but if it goes wrong I end up having to pay twice - once for the stuff I have bought and then for someone to fix it.

macman

So you'll go on wasting gas for ever then if you take that approach?
If it 'goes wrong' (which it really can't, you just change the motor as described, 2 wires, less effort than wiring a plug) you don't pay twice-the plumber comes in and fits the part you already bought. Minimum charge, as the part is there, the fault is diagnosed. You would be the dream customer...
Have you actually tried cleaning/lubricating and working the lever to see if it will move freely as suggested? If it does the job, that's a no-cost fix.

dantheman2010

No I have tried what you have written in your last paragraph, but I will when I get in from work. I was going to just spray a bit of WD40 and the wiggle it back and forth a few times and see whether the rad heats up tomorrow.

However I would only be wasting about 2 hours worth of gas a day when the hot water is on during the summer, which I doubt tots up to that much over the course of the year. But yes you are right, it shouldnt be a problem.

Do I buy a like for like motor? Can anyone place a picture of what part I am actually having to get and replace? The picture provided earlier by keystone is the part I have got in the airing cupboard with the lever.

dantheman2010

Could you please explain how that thing works, the motor/valve - what is the lever for? Does the lever automatically move? Should it always be in the AUTO position?

macman

This was explained in some detail by keystone. Yes, like for like-take the old one in with you if you don't know what to ask for.

dantheman2010

I know but I dont understand what he has said;

"This is closed in the de-energised state. When the valve is closed, the AUTO/MANUAL lever is "loose" for about one third of the travel of the slot with the rest of the travel pushing against a heavy spring. When the valve is powered open the lever is loose for the entire travel of the slot."

Which one would mean the radiators are being heated when they shouldnt, when the valve is closed or when the valve is powered open?

The lever for me was about 3mm away from the AUTO and could be moved fully from auto and manual.

dantheman2010

I have just been looking at some diagrams of the motor online, doesnt seem to bad to be honest. So if a clean up and wiggle doesnt do the trick, I will get a new motor, seen it for £25 online, but I was also told by a plumbers merchant that there is a cheaper universal one though, not sure if I should stick with like for like though?

IF the clean up and/or new motor doesnt do the trick and hot water is still being allowed in to the radiator circuit then what else could it be? Just pre-empting incase its not the motor thats the issue.

Thanks for all your help guys.

1984ReturnsForReal_2

dantheman2010 wrote: »

I have just been looking at some diagrams of the motor online, doesnt seem to bad to be honest.

Its a couple of screws to get the cover off & a couple to take the motor out.

If you had a multimeter you would just test between the 2 wires going into the motor. If there is a reading the motor is most likely fine. If not it needs replacing & is about £10-£15 to buy.

The whole thing is dead easy. 6 or 7 screws max & twisting 2 wires into connectors.

Canucklehead

Hi,

I would be interested to know if ,when spraying WD40 all about the zone valve, any of it gets in the micro switch and burns it out.
Also how long it takes for the smell of it to burn off.

Once the OP has changed the sync motor he might find that it's the actual valve inself that's got dirt in it from when the rad was changed. It's stuck to the ball and allows a small passage of hot water to the c/h.

GSR.