Tyres Advice please

mikey72

How can the rest of argue with an advanced driver. We're too busy indicating.

bigjl

Pew_Pew_Pew_Lasers! wrote: »

This issue has nothing to do with drive. An understeering car is, for most, more controllable than an oversteering car. Cars with badly-performing tyres on the rear axle will tend to oversteer.

Really?

You can countersteer to control oversteer, adjust the amount of oversteer with the throttle, and you can also keep the car going in the direction that you want to go in.


With understeer you have a lot less ability to control the vehicle, you may be able to ease back slightly to try to tighten your line, but that may instigate lift off oversteer.

Another thing with having the worn tyres on the front, the front brakes do most of the stopping, the rear brakes pretty much stop the back end from overtaking the front.


One other trick with an understeering FWD car, so long as you can prevent a spin you just give it a bootfull of throttle and the car will to an extent pull itself out of the slide, you see BTCC drivers do this sometimes, but it works well for most FWD cars, though to do it effectively you need a decent amount of power, other wise you can't get the front end to spin up enough to drag you out.


Lets get things into perspective, advanced drivers trained by Rospa and IAM drive in a progressive way for want of a better description, however you can easily pass their qualifications but still not actually be that skilled a driver, you will be a lot safer with the extra training, though you still won't be what I would consider an Advanced Driver.

Personally I am trained to just shy of a police pursuit driver and have not so much as read or looked at anything from Rospa or IAM, not relevant to my type of driving, though very valuable for drivers that want to be safer and more progressive.

bigjl

mikey72 wrote: »

How can the rest of argue with an advanced driver. We're too busy indicating.

Well I am sure you know what that statement means?



Had a look through earlier posts and spotted this statement, which I believe is taken from the Michelin report.

"The driver will have no chance of controlling the
rear, and will be tempted to accelerate further, which will amplify the spin effect. Only an experienced driver will be able to recover from this dangerous situation."


The important phrase being "Only an experienced driver...."

Which was what I already said. For less skilled and inexperienced drivers then fitting the new tyres to the rear has benefits, note though that driving very slowly for 20 years and not having an accident doesn't make you skilled. Experienced within the level of your abilities, but not skilled.

mikey72

If you have a spare lifetime, and feel you need to achieve nothing with it.

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/2833796

I always put new tyres on the driven wheels for what it's worth.

bigjl

Read the first two post of that thread and gave up, I assume it turned into a handbag match.

Strider590

bigjl wrote: »

One other trick with an understeering FWD car, so long as you can prevent a spin you just give it a bootfull of throttle and the car will to an extent pull itself out of the slide, you see BTCC drivers do this sometimes, but it works well for most FWD cars, though to do it effectively you need a decent amount of power, other wise you can't get the front end to spin up enough to drag you out.

Im sorry but that's incorrect, "booting it" is what you do if the rear of a FWD car starts to loose grip (or oversteer), doing so in understeer will only cause more problems.
However what happens on the race track is they lift off (or apply some left foot braking) so as to throw the car into oversteer first, then they boot it out of the apex.... Which is probably what you mean

Horizon81

vikingaero wrote: »

-1



The tyre manufacturers do insist on new tyres at the rear. I believe that this is partly due to their own greed and increased sales. Tyres at the rear can last 3-4 times as long as the fronts. If you have a new car with 4 tyres and the front 2 wear, you buy 2 new which are fitted on the rear axle, the worn rears are put on the front axle and they will require replacment sooner.

I'm adamant that new tyres go on the front. Wet braking is more important to me and my tyre supplier, Elite of Rainham, agree. If you have new tyres on the front you will stop better in 99% of situations, be less likely to aquaplane, have more grip in the snow etc.

Talk sense you fool. Tyres at the front (on a FWD) drive car will of course run down quicker than those on the rear, but where you put them when makes no difference on the overall wearing of the tyres, it just means you'll replace them at different periods! Doing what you say would likely result in needing all 4 tyres at the same time.

Most garages and tyre manufacturers agree new tyres go to the back. There's videos on youtube of Vicki Butler Henderson and Tiff Needell demonstrating what happens if the fronts have more grip than the rears.

Rossy.

I'm sorry but are all you driving Ferrari's or something?

My RenaultSport clio has 200bhp, it's fwd, and i always replaced the fronts before the rears. Infact my rears only have about 2mm left where as my fronts have 6mm

I can throw it about all over the place and i have never ever had the back step out on me.

Common sense should say always put new on the front due to traction,steering,torque etc.

Hardly any of us will ever get to drive their cars beyond it's limits to worry about the car stepping out, so stop using magazine publishes from bloody top gear or what ever to demonstrate a fact on bloody tires

Were talking about a MICRA here that has prob no more than 80bhp.I highly doubt that the op is going to suffer with the car stepping out unless it on ice or snow and even then it's expected

andygb

Blackcircles are doing Yokohama A Drive for about £45 each, fully fitted for your car. They are good in the wet, something you may want to think about as Winter is fast approaching. I would personally put new tyres on the drive wheels, as all of the mechanical traction is going through them. This would mean the front for most cars, which makes sense. If you look at braking on FWD cars, hardly any work is done by the rear brakes.

andygb

bigjl wrote: »

Personally I am trained to just shy of a police pursuit driver and have not so much as read or looked at anything from Rospa or IAM, not relevant to my type of driving, though very valuable for drivers that want to be safer and more progressive.

What the heck does that first comment mean?
I suspect in reality, it means that you consider that you are nearly up to the standard of a police pursuit driver, without having anything to back your claim up!;)