Don't think I'll use KwikFit again

moredough

Brake squeal doesn't necessarily mean the pads are past it. new pads can squeal too. A grinding on the other hand needs urgent attention, as does a juddering when braking. The mechanic who does my MOT usually sees to our cars, if he's too busy or doesn't want the job then he'll recommend someone. He doesn't give any discount on the MOT fee though, like a lot of places do, but he is honest and doesn't invent jobs.

I would never use Kwik buck or any of those. Always ask around and use a recommendation.

anewman

moredough wrote: »

The mechanic who does my MOT usually sees to our cars, if he's too busy or doesn't want the job then he'll recommend someone. He doesn't give any discount on the MOT fee though, like a lot of places do, but he is honest and doesn't invent jobs..

Very much the same as my MOT tester. Plus it helps it know your car inside out so you can say the brake discs are fine and know they're fine, rather than have some spotty 17 year old irk harp on about how it's illegal to drive your car until you pay them £600.

in2deep_2

The KwikFit thickness gauge needs to be used to measure the 'Thick' ness of the yoof that is using it.

You can only fail your mot on disc and lining thickness if the tester can see it without removing any parts, 9/10 you cant see them.

These places have lost the use of there brains in favour of chart that tells them what to do.

VickiE_2

I did pay the £149 for the brakes and got asked to sign a form saying I authorised the work. Considering I only went in for brake pads, the form said they had changed pads callipers, bearings and discs, none of which he told me on the phone. The form had been circled next to everything saying all worn, and required replacing. The rear which he went on and on about didn't have circled whether they were worn or anything but, he had marked them exactly the same as the front for the most expensive items (discs and pads) and they had been ticked 'advisable'. Nice way to make sure that if I took it elsewhere they haven't committed themselves to saying the back parts are worn. Also on the bottom of the form it says whether the customer wants to retain the original parts. I wasn't even offered this option, and the box had been pre-ticked to say I had declined the offer. Also in the small print it says Free Lifetime Brakes MAY be available please speak to the branch manager. So really the offer they advertise all over the place probably doesn't even exist.

Btw the squealing has gone, so it definitely was the front brakes causing the problem despite the mechanic saying it could be the rear, and there are no noises coming from the back end at all in relation to brakes or bearings going. Have heard what it sounds like when a bearing goes.

But lesson learned - will not use big chain garages again unless I need a tyre on a Sunday.

molerat

If they have changed the pads, discs, calipers and bearings for £149 then you got an absolute bargain. They HAVE NOT replaced that lot for that price ( parts alone would be at least £200) so I would look closely at the invoice for what they have actually done. Look through the holes in the front wheels. New discs will be nice shiny silver all over, calipers will be a nice shiny gold colour. you won't be able to see the bearings. I repeat THEY HAVE NOT REPLACED ALL THOSE ITEMS so if the invoice says they have I would be straight down to trading standards :rolleyes: ( if they have replaced them for that money the branch manager will probably be at the job centre next week )

in2deep_2

^^WHS^^
you have been hoodwinked or they have completely messed up your invoice.

Keith

VickiE wrote: »

The rear which he went on and on about didn't have circled whether they were worn or anything but, he had marked them exactly the same as the front for the most expensive items (discs and pads)

Strange as it has drum brakes on the back and therefore no discs or pads.

Brake squeal can be sorted by removing the pads and greasing the back of them with copper grease.

Incisor

Keith wrote: »

... Brake squeal can be sorted by removing the pads and greasing the back of them with copper grease.

Sound advice, I am sure. But. Would you mind clarifying EXACTLY what you mean, because I feel quite certain that this advice could easily be mis-understood by an eager beginner who could then create a very dangerous situation.

PZH

Incisor wrote: »

Sound advice, I am sure. But. Would you mind clarifying EXACTLY what you mean, because I feel quite certain that this advice could easily be mis-understood by an eager beginner who could then create a very dangerous situation.

LOL - this reminds me of when my best mate got a motorbike ( a 125cc ) back in the early 80's. He kept it very clean and one day decided that the front disc looked a bit grubby - so he polished it - and then wondered why it wasn't as efficient for a while .

He also once polished the seat to a very high shine - and then decided to pull do a wheelie and - well, let's say, it wasn't only his pride that was hurting...:eek:

Keith

Incisor wrote: »

Sound advice, I am sure. But. Would you mind clarifying EXACTLY what you mean, because I feel quite certain that this advice could easily be mis-understood by an eager beginner who could then create a very dangerous situation.

Remove the pads, and clean the calipers using a metal brush and a brake cleaner, compress the caliper using a clamp, spread copper grease to the back of the pad (which sits inside the caliper) and also the inside of the caliper. Refit pad to caliper.

Do not get any copper grease on the face of the pad otherwise your friction material won't stop you.

However, if you've got to the stage of removing the pads the above is obvious