Kitchen extrator fan - neighbour smelling cooking?

blackstar

ThisIsWeird said:

Most such chimneys are telescopic enough to cope with any ceiling height. The issue here would be that a side exit would really need cutting for the ext-vent duct. As t'Frog says, this is relatively straightforward using an angle grinder, but not for the novice.
Blackstar, 150mm flexible duct, 6", is one of the standard sizes. Many suppliers, including on t'Bay.

Thaks to you both.

I am thinking I would rather move the wall socket away from the chimmy so will ask an electrician if he can do that aswell and installing the extractor fan. I just don't like the idea of the wall socket being inside of the chimney, it just doesn't seem like a good place to have it and have the duck possibly leaning on it.
Not sure if an electrician can actually do that? 

If not possible to move socket then perhaps getting a 150mm flexible duct, 6" is an option but is that long enough to then travel along to outside? Or is some kind of extension needed?

I'm thinking of buying this one below direct from AEG as prefer to buy direct from the manufacturer rather than take the chance with a "new other" as worried about potential issues with warranty and guarantee and if there's anything wrong with it, even though that one thisisweriod posted me as an example looks amazing and what a great deal. 

So this one below, do you think this one would be suitable? Ie fit and is both a recirculating and can be externally vented? 

Although looking at the picture attached it looks similar to what we have now and doesn't seem to come with that round tube going up the chimney even. So guessing I need to source one of those too. 

Considering I have no DIY experience and trying to find someone ie a tradesman to help get the right hood extractor that fits and the nessecary parts and fit it and move the wall socket etc is incredibly difficult and time consuming and complex. 

https://www.aeg.co.uk/kitchen/cooking/cooker-hoods/cooker-hood-60-cm/dkx2630m/

So an electrician could move the existing wall socket to the side, away from chimney and replace with a fused spur or just simply move the wall socket itself to away from chimney? Guessing that would leave a hole? How best to seal up the hole and what materials would I need to do this? 

TheGreenFrog

As @ThisIsWeird said, you need to decide whether you want to vent externally or do recirculation.  External will require quite a bit of work whereas recirculation will be straightforward.  Personally I would probably opt for recirculation in your position, even though it is less efficient than externally vented.  My daughter just installed a hood and she went for recirculation as it was going to cost too much to get a tradesman to put a hole in the wall (she is in a flat on second floor), box in the venting, make good etc.  But check with the tradesmen you contact.

If you decide on recirculation you will probably have to buy a recirculation kit which is compatible with the hood.  Check when you buy.

It is worth measuring your space, both laterally and vertically to check everything will fit. 

As for the electrics, the best thing to do is to get the tradesman to remove the plug socket.  This will leave the mains cable poking out of the wall and he can replace it with a slim junction box which will take up much less room and can be moved about a bit.  When fitting the hood he can then cut the plug and attach the cable from the hood into the junction box.  It will all then be hidden behind the chimney.

I will have a look online and post a couple of possible alternatives to the AEG.

TheGreenFrog

The AEG hoods in general do not have great reviews (and from the specs the one you posted looks quite noisy for the amount it extracts).  I had a look on Which? and the highest rated chimney hoods for under £300 (but recirculation kist on top) are as follows.  Remember to check measurements and you don't need to buy direct from manufacturer as long as you buy from a reputable seller.  The Bosch has a lower extraction rate than the others (so suitable for a smaller kitchen than the others)

https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/mataelskare-wall-mounted-extractor-hood-stainless-steel-60368806/#content

https://www.bootskitchenappliances.com/product/cts6cex-candy-chimney-cooker-hood-stainless-steel-79150-5.aspx?utm_medium=affiliates&utm_source=PriceRunner+UK&utm_campaign=Price Comparison|58592&utm_content=0&awc=19528_1738403811_13e8e94a51b8319c7761e467a993282a

https://www.bootskitchenappliances.com/product/dwp64bc50b-bosch-series-2-chimney-cooker-hood-stainless-steel-56143-5.aspx?utm_medium=affiliates&utm_source=Which?+Limited&utm_campaign=Content|634144&utm_content=0&awc=19528_1738403957_061b7270e4674e315381d91c4143beb3

ThisIsWeird

No, it's clearly not ideal to have the switch hidden behind the chimney, but whether it's worth moving I'm not sure. It could even breach regs - I suspect it does, as you cannot isolate that device easily. 

So, yes, the simple solution is for your sparky to channel into the wall and run that supply cable to a location just outside the chimney, fit the fused switch there as you say, and then return the 'switched' supply back behind the chimney to a faceplate - the hood gets wired to this. I'd have the switch and faceplate sunk into the wall so they are flush, and not surface-mounted as currently - more work, but looks a lot better.

This would then allow you to use rigid ducting all the way, rather than a short length of flexi to begin with. The first short vertical section would be round, and 150mm dia. Near the ceiling, an adaptor would convert this to 'flat', but you should still maintain the same overall internal volume;

The flat ducting would then run along the ceiling/wall corner, until it can exit out the LH wall.

If I were DIYing this, I'd remove that ceiling board to the left (arrowed yellow), and sink the ducting inside that false ceiling void. Obviously more work, but it would then be invisible.

Alternatively, you could remove that decorative timber trim - orange arrow - fit the ducting, and then replace the trim on its outside edge to help disguise it.

ThisIsWeird

blackstar said:

So this one below, do you think this one would be suitable? Ie fit and is both a recirculating and can be externally vented?
Although looking at the picture attached it looks similar to what we have now and doesn't seem to come with that round tube going up the chimney even. So guessing I need to source one of those too. 

https://www.aeg.co.uk/kitchen/cooking/cooker-hoods/cooker-hood-60-cm/dkx2630m/

So an electrician could move the existing wall socket to the side, away from chimney and replace with a fused spur or just simply move the wall socket itself to away from chimney? Guessing that would leave a hole? How best to seal up the hole and what materials would I need to do this?

Totally understand you don't wish to take a chance on an eBay jobbie, and I ain't going to try and persuade you otherwise. But, the eBay example is quieter, and looks better :-).

In terms of fitting, they will be identical. You contact a couple of sparkies, explain what it is you are after, including - ideally - external ventilating, and if they aren't put off (some will dislike that kind of 'building' work), invite a couple round to look and quote for the work.

No need for you to fixate on detail - how they can do this - but there are some things you wish to ensure, so mention these;

1) Switch moved to outside of chimney, and 'flushed'.

2) Rigid, smooth ducting throughout - more efficient and quieter. Cross-sectional area to be maintained as much as possible; 15cm round = 176cm2. 25x6 ducting = 150cm2

3) Their best ideas on how/where to run the ducting - then compare them.

ThisIsWeird

TheGreenFrog said:

The AEG hoods in general do not have great reviews (and from the specs the one you posted looks quite noisy for the amount it extracts).  I had a look on Which? and the highest rated chimney hoods for under £300 (but recirculation kist on top) are as follows.  Remember to check measurements and you don't need to buy direct from manufacturer as long as you buy from a reputable seller.  The Bosch has a lower extraction rate than the others (so suitable for a smaller kitchen than the others)

https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/mataelskare-wall-mounted-extractor-hood-stainless-steel-60368806/#content

https://www.bootskitchenappliances.com/product/cts6cex-candy-chimney-cooker-hood-stainless-steel-79150-5.aspx?utm_medium=affiliates&utm_source=PriceRunner+UK&utm_campaign=Price Comparison|58592&utm_content=0&awc=19528_1738403811_13e8e94a51b8319c7761e467a993282a

https://www.bootskitchenappliances.com/product/dwp64bc50b-bosch-series-2-chimney-cooker-hood-stainless-steel-56143-5.aspx?utm_medium=affiliates&utm_source=Which?+Limited&utm_campaign=Content|634144&utm_content=0&awc=19528_1738403957_061b7270e4674e315381d91c4143beb3

Nice work, Greenie. And I suspect you're right about going recirculating - it'll be a fraction of the cost. You just need to maintain the filters.

The OP's issue about smell exiting their flat should be fixable regardless - just block that ceiling hole!

TheGreenFrog

ThisIsWeird said:

No, it's clearly not ideal to have the switch hidden behind the chimney, but whether it's worth moving I'm not sure. It could even breach regs - I suspect it does, as you cannot isolate that device easily. 

So, yes, the simple solution is for your sparky to channel into the wall and run that supply cable to a location just outside the chimney, fit the fused switch there as you say, and then return the 'switched' supply back behind the chimney to a faceplate - the hood gets wired to this. I'd have the switch and faceplate sunk into the wall so they are flush, and not surface-mounted as currently - more work, but looks a lot better.

A much better suggestion.

blackstar

.
After a g 
Thisisweird and the frog thanks all very much for your help
After a good few hours of research today we decided to buy the 

https://www.bootskitchenappliances.com/product/cts6cex-candy-chimney-cooker-hood-stainless-steel-79150-5.aspx?utm_medium=affiliates&utm_source=PriceRunner+UK&utm_campaign=Price Comparison|58592&utm_content=0&awc=19528_1738403811_13e8e94a51b8319c7761e467a993282a

So now we have to get any nessecary parts, like the correct size and length extractor duct (150mm) etc.
Any thoughts on that? Links to exactly what we need to give to the sparky?
We have an electrician coming out next week to give a quote and tell him what we need and for him to have a look and ask him the following questions

1) Switch moved to outside of chimney, and 'flushed'.

2) Rigid, smooth ducting throughout - more efficient and quieter. Cross-sectional area to be maintained as much as possible; 15cm round = 176cm2. 25x6 ducting = 150cm2

Also we had the entire house rewired 5 months ago and all eletrics in kitchen are all on fuse spurs in a cupboard, including the extractor fan. So will this make it easier when connecting the new extractor hood? Also want the socket removed from behind the hood chimney as just doesnt seem right there. 

Here's some details of the new hood.

ThisIsWeird

blackstar said:

.
 
Thisisweird and the frog thanks all very much for your help
After a good few hours of research today we decided to buy the
https://www.bootskitchenappliances.com/product/cts6cex-candy-chimney-cooker-hood-stainless-steel-79150-5.aspx?utm_medium=affiliates&utm_source=PriceRunner+UK&utm_campaign=Price Comparison|58592&utm_content=0&awc=19528_1738403811_13e8e94a51b8319c7761e467a993282a

So now we have to get any nessecary parts, like the correct size and length extractor duct (150mm) etc.
Any thoughts on that? Links to exactly what we need to give to the sparky?
We have an electrician coming out next week to give a quote and tell him what we need and for him to have a look and ask him the following questions

1) Switch moved to outside of chimney, and 'flushed'.

2) Rigid, smooth ducting throughout - more efficient and quieter. Cross-sectional area to be maintained as much as possible; 15cm round = 176cm2. 25x6 ducting = 150cm2

Also we had the entire house rewired 5 months ago and all eletrics in kitchen are all on fuse spurs in a cupboard, including the extractor fan. So will this make it easier when connecting the new extractor hood? Also want the socket removed from behind the hood chimney as just doesnt seem right there. 

Here's some details of the new hood.

I'm concerned that it doesn't give the min noise level, only the max - and tbf all hoods will be noisy - 70+db - at max.

For most use, tho', you should hopefully be able to have it running at a low speed, and that's where the operating noise level will make a difference. My Indesit - same as yours - is quite noisy even at '1'. You get used to it, but it's still an intrusion.

So, personally, I'd confirm the min db of that hood - the AEG was 47db or summat?

As for installing, that's for the sparky to work out :-). Make sure they know you are ideally after an external venting setup, and get at least two out to discuss and quote. Listen to what they say - see how conscientious they are at wishing to do a good job. And, see how their ext vs int quotes compare - obviously, the former will be a LOT more (but you will have a better system, and will save on filters longer term.)

Of course, they might say they don't wish to go 'ext' at all as it's too tricky - let's see.

That cupboard full of switches is a hoot... Do you know what they all do? :-) You say one is the hood? Cool - so the switched-socket behind the chimney is not actually required, so can be simply replaced by a faceplate, ideally sunk.

Seriously - check the dbs of that hood.

ThisIsWeird

IF this is genuinely only 45db at min speed, 60 at max, then a no-brainer for me:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364784852938?

£199 at Bezos.