Mountfield R28M Ride-on-Mower Mistake? Any tips..?

sujsuj

When i search "CHAMPION RC12YC" it takes me to 

Briggs & Stratton 992304 Genuine Spark Plug
is this means both are compatible..? Thanks

sujsuj

I see I missed this part...Spin the engine with the plug out to dispel any excess oil, and refit. If you use the blowtorch method, replace the plug when hot, and try a quick start.

ThisIsWeird

I can't believe we are five pages in.

Please don't do stuff you haven't been told to do, unless you fully understand the consequences; they could not only be pointless, but even harmful.

And do not try and turn that engine until the plug has been removed. 

You have removed the rocker cover (these are 'rockers' you see under it) and, yes, there should be oil under there - it is sent up from the engine, and what keeps it lubricated. Don't clean  that oil up. Check that the sealing gasket on that cover is undamaged, give it a smear of oil, and put the bludy thing back on. Wipe the outside clean, so that any future leaks from this cover will show up and you can sort it. 

SS, please remove the spark plug again, and nothing else. With the sp removed, turn the engine using your ignition key as if you were trying to fire it up.

Q - does the engine now turn using the starter? 

Q - has oil been splattered out the sp hole? 

Using the starter motor, spin it a good half dozen times, each time for a good five seconds,  but giving it a 30 second rest between times. Keep monitoring if oil is spattering out. Repeat until no more oil comes out. Stop when/if no oil comes out.

That plug is very 'oiled' and therefore won't 'spark'. It needs to be completely clean and dry. You could try washing it in petrol, using a long bristled brush - get right up inside it. Or, you can blow-torch it until the oil has been fully burned off, allow to cool, and then use a stiff plastic/nylon brush to remove the dusty carbon. For blow-torching, it needs a really good roasting. Or, better still, get a new plug...

Do NOT blow torch AND use petrol at the same time (can't believe I'm saying that, but there is evidence  here that you do not carry out logical processes...)

ThisIsWeird

Oh, and what sort of  starting 'choke' or fuel primer does your mower have? Keep this OFF during the spinning so as not to flood the engine. If you have a fuel tap, keep it off. 

If the engine has a throttle control (you can vary the engine speed), then have it on max as this will help the cylinder to breath.

Once you have ejected any and all oil, and fitted a fully clean/new sp, then remember to go to normal starting mode; fuel on, choke on, throttle in 'start' position. 

ThisIsWeird

sujsuj said:

should I do this sort of wire brush rough cleaning..?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QEHEvlaiQPY

Just watched this...

Not impressed at all. For a start, only the tip is being cleaned, and even that not very well. The choice of brush is too coarse, so won't get down the side of the insulator, or even in-between the spark gap.

There's also a risk of bits of metal bristle breaking off and remaining down the side of the insulator, where it could cause all sorts of bother; it could sit there glowing causing predetonation, or even fall into the engine potentially scratching the bore.

Your oiled plug ideally needs burning clean, and the resulting carbon brushed off using a still plastic brush.

ThisIsWeird

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Briggs-Stratton-Overhead-Valve-pieces/dp/B00JS6BL1O/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?adgrpid=116358023903&hvadid=498410139042&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9045292&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=4667329443272102454&hvtargid=kwd-303172078945&hydadcr=16906_1717163&keywords=rc12yc+spark+plug&qid=1684390492&quartzVehicle=138-10368&replacementKeywords=rc12yc+plug&sr=8-3

No harm in getting a couple if they are that cheap. If the engine now spins, but doesn't quite fire up, good chance the new plug has oiled up with residual, and you can do a quick swap.

Watch the vid on there. Notice how it's screwed fully in, and then just given a 'tweak'?

Ok, on your old plug, the sealing/seating washer will have been crushed flat, so when you screw it in until it stops, you'll likely find it then just needs a small, 1/30th-ish, further turn before it feels nicely seated. With a new plug, this will be a bit more the first time - you should feel the washer-squishing part - and will subsequently be the same as the old one.

ThisIsWeird

Best get new plugs. But if you do want to clean the existing, then jump to 2 minutes in, but I personally wouldn't get the threaded part glowing red - that's too much!

Certainly aim the flame at the threaded part too - get it real hot - so it heats the inside of that part, and the electrode tip will certainly be glowing as it's a smaller piece of metal, but I'd stop short of getting the threaded section glowing as much as this guy does. I don't think it's necessary.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P9PjZNVq4eo

sujsuj

I removed spark plug again and rotated  clockwise the engine by hand. I didn't find much resistance while rotating. but engine oil came out through spark plug hole some times while rotating may be when pistons go up/down..? ( but not always, only when may be pistons reaches certain position..?) . Is this means anything or expected...? need to put everything back and try starting engine again.

ThisIsWeird

sujsuj said:

I removed spark plug again and rotated  clockwise the engine by hand. I didn't find much resistance while rotating. but engine oil came out through spark plug hole some times while rotating may be when pistons go up/down..? ( but not always, only when may be pistons reaches certain position..?) . Is this means anything or expected...? need to put everything back and try starting engine again.

First the good news. WONDERFUL! You have located the problem! That oil needs to be removed. There should not be any in there. Yes, the piston inside goes back and forth (or up and down - that depends on which way the engine lies :-) ), and the oil is pushed out there when it's at the top of its cycle.

Bad news - you aren't listening to hardly anything anyone is telling you. :-(

You now - with the plug removed - need to SPIN the engine using the starter motor. That should expel most of the oil. Place a cloth near the hole to catch the oil. Observe what's happening - keep cranking the engine in a few-second bursts until no more oil is being expelled.

Then fit a new clean plug, check that the engine now spins correctly as it should, and try and start the engine.

If it coughs but fails to start, then remove the plug - it'll possibly be freshly oiled, because you won't have got rid of it all. Clean the plug, and retry. (See? Buy two plugs...)

When the engine does finally start, there will be LOTS of blue smoke coming out the exhaust as it burns off the remaining oil in the cylinder - that's normal. Keep the engine running at a fast tickover/ half-throttle until the smoke clears.

Jobbie jobbed.

I really hope I don't need to write another word - other than a closing 'well done'.

sujsuj

ThisIsWeird said:

sujsuj said:

I removed spark plug again and rotated  clockwise the engine by hand. I didn't find much resistance while rotating. but engine oil came out through spark plug hole some times while rotating may be when pistons go up/down..? ( but not always, only when may be pistons reaches certain position..?) . Is this means anything or expected...? need to put everything back and try starting engine again.

First the good news. WONDERFUL! You have located the problem! That oil needs to be removed. There should not be any in there. Yes, the piston inside goes back and forth (or up and down - that depends on which way the engine lies :-) ), and the oil is pushed out there when it's at the top of its cycle.

Bad news - you aren't listening to hardly anything anyone is telling you. :-(

You now - with the plug removed - need to SPIN the engine using the starter motor. That should expel most of the oil. Place a cloth near the hole to catch the oil. Observe what's happening - keep cranking the engine in a few-second bursts until no more oil is being expelled.

Then fit a new clean plug, check that the engine now spins correctly as it should, and try and start the engine.

If it coughs but fails to start, then remove the plug - it'll possibly be freshly oiled, because you won't have got rid of it all. Clean the plug, and retry. (See? Buy two plugs...)

When the engine does finally start, there will be LOTS of blue smoke coming out the exhaust as it burns off the remaining oil in the cylinder - that's normal. Keep the engine running at a fast tickover/ half-throttle until the smoke clears.

Jobbie jobbed.

I really hope I don't need to write another word - other than a closing 'well done'.

Thanks Everyone. 

Just one query oil inside the chamber -> I thought some oil need to be there to reduce wear & tear of pistons..? So are we talking about the excess oil only or complete oil wipe cleaning..?

Bad news - you aren't listening to hardly anything anyone is telling you. :-( -
Sorry if anyone felt that way, I can't follow some items and some times many opinions there or miss key part by mistake nothing intentional as I know forum is trying to help me.. :-)