EV Discussion thread

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  • MeteredOut
    MeteredOut Posts: 2,782 Forumite
    1,000 Posts Second Anniversary Name Dropper
    edited 8 November 2023 at 4:16PM
    I logged every charge individually, what was recorded as input to the car and what was recorded as use by the plug.  Overall, the kWh as shown on the Tesla app 516 kWh and shown by the power monitor plug 594 kWh.

    That suggests the granny charger has a touch over 13% losses ((594-516)/594), which isn't too far away from the 15% your mileage based calculation provided.

    I've recently got our first EV and still only using the granny charger (I can also charge for cheap at work so am still working out if its worth paying for a "proper" charge). I'm going to the same power monitor analysis with our next charge. I do wonder if different granny chargers have different losses, or if there will be different losses at different charge rates (the one I have can charge a 6A, 10A or 13A).
  • Grumpy_chap
    Grumpy_chap Posts: 17,728 Forumite
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    JKenH said:
    Hmmm! That would suggest that charging from the home charger was virtually 100% efficient. I kWh gives you 3.54 miles of range at the 85% efficiency of your granny charger. If your granny charger was 100% efficient you would get 4.16 miles. Your home charger, therefore based on this data has an efficiency of 99.5%. 

    Yes, I did do that reverse calculation after I posted earlier and I was a bit unsure.
    I have been keeping a spreadsheet, so will revisit it.
    I also take screenshots and photos of mileage very regularly.
    Need to pop off now as the MiL has just turned up :(
  • Grumpy_chap
    Grumpy_chap Posts: 17,728 Forumite
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    @michaels
    @JKenH
    Thanks for your observations - I think there was an error in the split of granny charger versus home charger miles.

    I have kept a detailed spreadsheet of charges using the granny charger but decided to only record monthly data in totals for the home charger.  Partly because the home charger allows that, partly because that is less effort and partly because aggregate is more useful than individual charges (where variables can have a proportionately larger impact).

    The last entry for the spreadsheet on the granny charger was 23rd September at 2,108 miles. 
    Total plug 594.44 kWh
    Total car 516 kWh
    15.2% charging loss on that occasion.

    The home charger was installed on 27th September.
    I have been through my screen shots and I did a charge on 27th September.  Car says 37 kWh.
    In my photos for the same day, the home charger meter says 39.85 kWh.
    That would be a charging loss of 7.7% (which is more akin to what I have read from other posters).
    I also have mileage recorded from the evening of 26th September at 2,304 miles (recorded because it was a business journey).

    This means my previous figures need correcting:

    Granny charger.  2,108 miles.  594 kWh.  3.54 miles / kWh
    Home charger.   1,598 miles.  383 kWh.  4.14 miles / kWh

    This should be:
    Granny charger.  2,304 miles.  594 kWh.  3.87 miles / kWh
    Home charger.  1,402 miles.  383 kWh.  3.66 miles / kWh
    The car is currently (in that data set at 2nd November) "full" so I think I need to wait until the end of November to get a representative "home charger" figure which will be "full-to-full".

    I could just do a charge to full now, but it is raining cats-n-dogs out there :(




    I do wonder if different granny chargers have different losses, or if there will be different losses at different charge rates (the one I have can charge a 6A, 10A or 13A).
    I don't know how apparent any variance will be between one rate of "slow" and another rate of "slow", but the consensus of views that I have read suggest that charging faster is more efficient than charging slower.  
  • Martyn1981
    Martyn1981 Posts: 15,216 Forumite
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    GC, very interesting. So I'm sorry if this seems pedantic.  I'm only mentioning it so that comparisons can be made more broadly with others / other sources, but shouldn't you be dividing the lost energy by the gross energy figure to get the percentage loss?

    Eg  594.44 - 516 = 78.44 / 594.44 = 0.13 x100% = 13% loss
    and  39.85 - 37 = 2.85 / 39.85 = 0.07 x 100% = 7% loss
    Mart. Cardiff. 8.72 kWp PV systems (2.12 SSW 4.6 ESE & 2.0 WNW). 20kWh battery storage. Two A2A units for cleaner heating. Two BEV's for cleaner driving.

    For general PV advice please see the PV FAQ thread on the Green & Ethical Board.
  • Grumpy_chap
    Grumpy_chap Posts: 17,728 Forumite
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    edited 8 November 2023 at 6:40PM
    GC, very interesting. So I'm sorry if this seems pedantic.  I'm only mentioning it so that comparisons can be made more broadly with others / other sources, but shouldn't you be dividing the lost energy by the gross energy figure to get the percentage loss?

    Eg  594.44 - 516 = 78.44 / 594.44 = 0.13 x100% = 13% loss
    and  39.85 - 37 = 2.85 / 39.85 = 0.07 x 100% = 7% loss
    Possibly.
    I just did the simple calculation:
    594.44 / 516 = 1.152 so 15.2% of what was drawn from the plug did not make it to the car
    39.85 / 37 = 1.077 so 7.7% of what was drawn from the plug did not make it to the car

    Yours is the inverse calculation.  (516 / 594.44)


    EDIT - I agree that my calculation was incorrect.  Thank you for the correction.

    I am not sure how particular this needs to be, especially given that the car only reports in complete kWh.  That can have a massive difference in the loss that is recorded.
    39.85 kWh from plug and 37.00 kWh into the car (7ish percent loss) is a lot worse than 39.85 kWh from the plug and 37.99 kWh into the car (5ish percent loss).

    The important thing to know is that the home charger is more efficient than the granny charger.

    It is also why I think longer term miles / kWh is more useful than individual charges.  Any variables (such as weather or vampire losses) are magnified in a single charge cycle but mitigated through the averaging of several cycles.

  • michaels
    michaels Posts: 28,967 Forumite
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    GC, very interesting. So I'm sorry if this seems pedantic.  I'm only mentioning it so that comparisons can be made more broadly with others / other sources, but shouldn't you be dividing the lost energy by the gross energy figure to get the percentage loss?

    Eg  594.44 - 516 = 78.44 / 594.44 = 0.13 x100% = 13% loss
    and  39.85 - 37 = 2.85 / 39.85 = 0.07 x 100% = 7% loss
    Possibly.
    I just did the simple calculation:
    594.44 / 516 = 1.152 so 15.2% of what was drawn from the plug did not make it to the car
    39.85 / 37 = 1.077 so 7.7% of what was drawn from the plug did not make it to the car

    Yours is the inverse calculation.  (516 / 594.44)


    EDIT - I agree that my calculation was incorrect.  Thank you for the correction.

    I am not sure how particular this needs to be, especially given that the car only reports in complete kWh.  That can have a massive difference in the loss that is recorded.
    39.85 kWh from plug and 37.00 kWh into the car (7ish percent loss) is a lot worse than 39.85 kWh from the plug and 37.99 kWh into the car (5ish percent loss).

    The important thing to know is that the home charger is more efficient than the granny charger.

    It is also why I think longer term miles / kWh is more useful than individual charges.  Any variables (such as weather or vampire losses) are magnified in a single charge cycle but mitigated through the averaging of several cycles.

    This is so useful having actual real world data, thank you - the manufacturers should supply data on charge efficiency of their own supplied granny chargers but of course they don't....
    I think....
  • silvercar
    silvercar Posts: 49,149 Ambassador
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Academoney Grad Name Dropper
    I lose 10-15% between Podpoint charger and Tesla. I know this because the OVO measures the charge received from the car and the podpoint app the amount delivered by the charger. 
    I'm a Forum Ambassador on the housing, mortgages, student & coronavirus Boards, money saving boards. I volunteer to help get your forum questions answered and keep the forum running smoothly. Forum Ambassadors are not moderators and don't read every post. If you spot an illegal or inappropriate post then please report it to forumteam@moneysavingexpert.com (it's not part of my role to deal with this). Any views are mine and not the official line of MoneySavingExpert.com.
  • 1961Nick
    1961Nick Posts: 2,101 Forumite
    Tenth Anniversary 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    GC, very interesting. So I'm sorry if this seems pedantic.  I'm only mentioning it so that comparisons can be made more broadly with others / other sources, but shouldn't you be dividing the lost energy by the gross energy figure to get the percentage loss?

    Eg  594.44 - 516 = 78.44 / 594.44 = 0.13 x100% = 13% loss
    and  39.85 - 37 = 2.85 / 39.85 = 0.07 x 100% = 7% loss
    Possibly.
    I just did the simple calculation:
    594.44 / 516 = 1.152 so 15.2% of what was drawn from the plug did not make it to the car
    39.85 / 37 = 1.077 so 7.7% of what was drawn from the plug did not make it to the car

    Yours is the inverse calculation.  (516 / 594.44)


    EDIT - I agree that my calculation was incorrect.  Thank you for the correction.

    I am not sure how particular this needs to be, especially given that the car only reports in complete kWh.  That can have a massive difference in the loss that is recorded.
    39.85 kWh from plug and 37.00 kWh into the car (7ish percent loss) is a lot worse than 39.85 kWh from the plug and 37.99 kWh into the car (5ish percent loss).

    The important thing to know is that the home charger is more efficient than the granny charger.

    It is also why I think longer term miles / kWh is more useful than individual charges.  Any variables (such as weather or vampire losses) are magnified in a single charge cycle but mitigated through the averaging of several cycles.

    You'll find that the 'loss' increases with winter charging if you're charging it outside.

    MY loss March - Oct is in the range 5.4% - 7.7%. Nov - Feb it's 9.8% - 10.4%.

    I have one outlier which was July this year at 21.1% & I haven't a clue why. 
    4kWp (black/black) - Sofar Inverter - SSE(141°) - 30° pitch - North Lincs
    Installed June 2013 - PVGIS = 3400
    Sofar ME3000SP Inverter & 5 x Pylontech US2000B Plus & 3 x US2000C Batteries - 19.2kWh
  • JKenH
    JKenH Posts: 5,046 Forumite
    Sixth Anniversary 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    michaels said:
    GC, very interesting. So I'm sorry if this seems pedantic.  I'm only mentioning it so that comparisons can be made more broadly with others / other sources, but shouldn't you be dividing the lost energy by the gross energy figure to get the percentage loss?

    Eg  594.44 - 516 = 78.44 / 594.44 = 0.13 x100% = 13% loss
    and  39.85 - 37 = 2.85 / 39.85 = 0.07 x 100% = 7% loss
    Possibly.
    I just did the simple calculation:
    594.44 / 516 = 1.152 so 15.2% of what was drawn from the plug did not make it to the car
    39.85 / 37 = 1.077 so 7.7% of what was drawn from the plug did not make it to the car

    Yours is the inverse calculation.  (516 / 594.44)


    EDIT - I agree that my calculation was incorrect.  Thank you for the correction.

    I am not sure how particular this needs to be, especially given that the car only reports in complete kWh.  That can have a massive difference in the loss that is recorded.
    39.85 kWh from plug and 37.00 kWh into the car (7ish percent loss) is a lot worse than 39.85 kWh from the plug and 37.99 kWh into the car (5ish percent loss).

    The important thing to know is that the home charger is more efficient than the granny charger.

    It is also why I think longer term miles / kWh is more useful than individual charges.  Any variables (such as weather or vampire losses) are magnified in a single charge cycle but mitigated through the averaging of several cycles.

    This is so useful having actual real world data, thank you - the manufacturers should supply data on charge efficiency of their own supplied granny chargers but of course they don't....
    I may be wrong but I was under the impression that the majority of the losses occur in the AC to DC conversion circuits onboard the car rather than in the “granny charger”. I would imagine it wouldn’t make much difference whether you used Tesla’s supplied charging cable or one from, say, Screwfix. 


    Northern Lincolnshire. 7.8 kWp system, (4.2 kw west facing panels , 3.6 kw east facing), Solis inverters, Solar IBoost water heater, Mitsubishi SRK35ZS-S and SRK20ZS-S Wall Mounted Inverter Heat Pumps, ex Nissan Leaf owner)
  • MeteredOut
    MeteredOut Posts: 2,782 Forumite
    1,000 Posts Second Anniversary Name Dropper
    edited 9 November 2023 at 11:46AM
    As another data point, when I charge at work, I get a bill showing kWh used/charged, and my car shows the % increase so I can work out the additional kWh stored in the battery. From that data, I've inferred a ~10% loss.

    Now there is a margin of error in that because the car only shows in whole % points of battery charge, and what the car shows is not a 100% accurate representation of the actual kWh increase in the battery and it can actually go up or down 1% after charging has stopped and temperatures have change.
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