Lux ac battery controller

ianatkin

EVandPV said:

I just hooked ours up to a 3 socket extension lead myself. 
No more difficult than wiring a plug.
Of course, we'll only be able to plug stuff into the sockets, it won't power the lights or anything else wired to the CU.

Doesn't it have a proprietary socket on the inverter itself?

EVandPV

ianatkin said:

EVandPV said:

I just hooked ours up to a 3 socket extension lead myself. 
No more difficult than wiring a plug.
Of course, we'll only be able to plug stuff into the sockets, it won't power the lights or anything else wired to the CU.

Doesn't it have a proprietary socket on the inverter itself?

No but there's a 3 wire ac output connection.
Just a case of powering the Lux down completely first.

chainreaction

gradgrind said:

I didn't get the EPS output wired up at install time, has anyone done this post-install? Did you go back to your original installer, or get a local sparky? What did you connect the output to? 

I got mine wired in on install

Left hand of the 2 black connectors is the EPS, when the electrician ran the power to the Inverter (from my CU cupboard) he also ran a second cable on the same route for the EPS, this comes in via the black box next to the incoming isolator. The other end feeds one of the 2 consumer units I have in the house, so it will be down to the wire run to your consumer unit and how much hassle that is. You'll need to look at the potential loads on the CU and move any big loads onto a second CU (we had a second one when we extended the house, so all the large loads sit on this CU in case of EPS kicking in and then tripping the inverter with too much load). Everything else, lights, power for boiler, central heating pump, router, sockets etc is fed via the Inverter. Note if the inverter fails you will lose the power to any connected source. It will be a fairly easy install for a competent electrician, the work will be in moving potential high loads to a second CU if thats what you decide. 

chainreaction

PS the EPS has worked successfully 4 times since installation just over a year ago, so well worth it. 

chainreaction

Sorry one final comment, it is worthwhile if you are going to hook up to your CU to ensure that power is available to your router and any wifi extenders you have ie to the inverter. That way in the event of a power cut you'll be able to monitor what the house load is doing and potentially reduce unnecessary loads until you have grid back. For some reason our garage was on the second CU supply so the wifi extender in the garage for the inverter didnt work. You still get local access to see what the system is doing. Since this we have moved the garage supply to the EPS CU and our last power cut after this move gave me monitoring on the app/online, which was very useful.  

newbuilder

Quick question, have a SOLiC that keeps pulling 100 watts, there is no internal programmable adjustments. Is there a way that a capacitor or resistor could be fitted after the SOLiC, feed to immerser that would create this 100 watt wait? 

Heedtheadvice

Are you connected in type 1 or 2?

https://www.google.com/url?q=https://www.earthwiseproducts.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/SOLiC-user-guide-inc-quick-fit.pdf&sa=U&ved=2ahUKEwjen4GHsef5AhUJLsAKHbM0CgYQjBB6BAgBEAc&usg=AOvVaw0G54HKRszzsNkIIL6-NE2P

When you write 'pulling' do you mean it always exports or consumes 100 Watts?

It claims that zero export the Aim and 100watts is high for consumption if there is no excess generation capacity.

newbuilder

I mean it is always taking 100 watts from whatever source and heating the water. Unless the water is up to temperature 

you reference an older unit . Try https://www.earthwiseproducts.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/SOLiC-user-guide-inc-quick-fit.pdf

mickyduck55

Mine does not… 

newbuilder

That’s great but their after service is appalling and not worth the ink on the paper so I need to find a way to sort this