I fitted a Dimplex Quantum heater!

danrv

Looks like it works on charge presets. It has a dial so would be useful to have manual input too. 
If the modes can be altered though from the factory set times, that should help get the charge amount right.
There’s a USER setting too that allows up to four time slots in the day. I’m assuming that the input amount would auto balance for the chosen times.
The manual does explain it but it’s really helpful to hear these user experiences.
At nearly £700 a pop for the larger ones, I need to know as much as possible before buying. Would be a right hassle sending it back, especially after I’ve built it.

oldcyclist

I've been watching this forum for a while and get the impression that many people don't really understand storage heaters. I have installed a number of Quantum Storage units in two dwellings and in addition still have a few of the older (c2000) units- both fan-assisted and basic ones.  Where the Quantum Storage units are advantageous can be summarised in two factors- 1. Much better core insulation thus saving the heat energy stored in the "cheap times" and 2. Vastly better control of the output thus using the heat when needed and maintaining more constant room temperatures during the times needed.
Some posters seem to expect rapid changes when adjusting the temperature knob whilst judging the effectiveness of the heaters by feeling the external temperature of the heater casing. Because of the very effective insulation the external casing temperature of a Quantum Storage unit will ALWAYS be cooler than with the old static units. The internal core can be many 100s of degrees warmer than the casing and the main way the heat is released is via the fan and lower grille. The charging is computed to reach the computed amount at the END of the "cheap slot"(to avoid heat loss before it's called for) and the adjustable timer will start the fan to bring the room to the required temperature by the beginning of the selected time. Any change to the timer adjustments will eventually modify the charging demand but will probably take a couple of days to stabilise. Adjustment of the "extra charge" function should only be done if the heat  output is still not as desired after a  couple of days with no other alterations. Additionally the "boost" function should be only used when absolutely necessary as this will be using "full rate" (expensive)electricity and is the sae as plugging in an ordinary fan heater. (Of course the above details are dependent on a correctly sized Quantum Storage heater(s) being installed in the first place!) All Quantum Storage units will have TWO power supplies- one connected to a normal ring-main (i.e.24hr supply) and one on an E10 or E7 supply. Always ensure that both of these are switched on and that the switched supply is LIVE in the promulgated hours (usually written on the meter) NOTE: If any Dimplex techs are reading this then please correct any errors that I may have made!

tracytcb

danrv said:

Looks like it works on charge presets. It has a dial so would be useful to have manual input too. 
If the modes can be altered though from the factory set times, that should help get the charge amount right.
There’s a USER setting too that allows up to four time slots in the day. I’m assuming that the input amount would auto balance for the chosen times.
The manual does explain it but it’s really helpful to hear these user experiences.
At nearly £700 a pop for the larger ones, I need to know as much as possible before buying. Would be a right hassle sending it back, especially after I’ve built it.

You can set you own timer  but you can also change the presets..

oldcyclist

danrv said:

Looks like it works on charge presets. It has a dial so would be useful to have manual input too. 
If the modes can be altered though from the factory set times, that should help get the charge amount right.
There’s a USER setting too that allows up to four time slots in the day. I’m assuming that the input amount would auto balance for the chosen times.
The manual does explain it but it’s really helpful to hear these user experiences.

Further comment-- regarding INPUT supply-
You can set the OUTPUT presets..On some of the later models you can set/alter the INPUT presets but it's essential that this matches(or sits inside) the times that your supplier stipulates for the lower rate! (This option is to permit installation in certain cases where wiring is not available for a switched circuit) MOST installations will have a separate circuit which will determine the low rate supply. OUTPUT times are user adjustable (with some default settings to get you started (Home all day and Out all day) As I said earlier, eventually- over a few days, the electronics will adjust the INPUT to optimise the best parameters for the desired OUTPUT. I must emphasis though-- you only get the LOW rate supply during the times specified by your supplier (and the installed meter(s). In the case of E7 this will be a single time during the night- in the case of E10 there will usually be a 5 hour slot in the night , a 2 hour period mid-evening, and a 3 hr slot early afternoon. Many suppliers will try to shift you from E10 to E7 at the time of installing Smart Metering. In my opinion it's well worth resisting this to get the afternoon segment. I run my dishwasher and laundry machines at this time as well for additional savings. OVO charge the same unit prices as E7 but they don't advertise this!  (Other suppliers refuse to do E10) Yes- the heaters are expensive BUT installing a gas powered/wet  heating system is even more pricy and requires regular maintenance PLUS will not be permitted in the next few years!

danrv

Thanks for the explanation. 
Yes, the latest G series has timer settings for the input. I may need to use them that way as I have no E7 wiring, only E10 warm air.
Means that I could run one Quantum in a cupboard which is no good.

Other than that, I have E10 switched 32a ring mains for regular sockets. I’m not sure what gauge cable is normally used for these but 2.5mm is recommended for single supply use.
I’d prefer to use a seperate E7 supply for automatic rate switching but the challenge is 
getting the cabling to each heater. 
It’s usually installed when the house is built but mine is designed around this huge storage heater. 
The electrician might have some ideas.

oldcyclist

danrv said:

Thanks for the explanation. 
Yes, the latest G series has timer settings for the input. I may need to use them that way as I have no E7 wiring, only E10 warm air.
Means that I could run one Quantum in a cupboard which is no good.

Other than that, I have E10 switched 32a ring mains for regular sockets. I’m not sure what gauge cable is normally used for these but 2.5mm is recommended for single supply use.
I’d prefer to use a separate E7 supply for automatic rate switching but the challenge is 
getting the cabling to each heater. 
It’s usually installed when the house is built but mine is designed around this huge storage heater. 
The electrician might have some ideas.

Hi Danry, In my apartments (built c 2000) the storage heaters only use 2.5mm wiring BUT each heater is on it's own spur (NO RING MAINS) F0r the past 10+ years though- when the "low rate" comes on ALL the house uses that rate so I have timers on high consumption items like the dishwasher, clothes washer, and dryer to make the most of the savings. In order to offset the higher  standing charges with E10/E7  it's essential to use the low rate as much as possible! I also have a Quantum Mains Pressure Hot Water system which works similarly to the Storage Heaters so my LOW rate consumption is between 3 and 4 times the FULL rate.

danrv

oldcyclist said:

In my apartments (built c 2000) the storage heaters only use 2.5mm wiring BUT each heater is on it's own spur (NO RING MAINS) 

Thanks. Are they fitted with two supplies? 2.5mm wiring is needed whether dual supply or single.
For dual, I can run the 24/7 side via a switched spur from the ring main. 
I have a hot water immersion tank that I can fit a timer to so that in runs during off peak hours.

oldcyclist

These buildings have no gas so were fitted with dual supplies right from the start (Just an old style meter with TWO outputs and a built in timer) The outputs connect to two separate consumer units- one being the switched one feeding hot water and individual storage heater spurs, and the other for lighting and ring mains as usual. Originally the main hot water element fed from the switched supply and a separate immersion at the top of the tank connected to the 24h supply with a switch (with LED) labelled "boost" That worked OK but the newer Quantum Hot Water units are much more efficient and controllable.(but expensive) As with the storage heaters a 24h supply is needed to power the electronics. (Not necessary if you are keeping the original hot water tank)

danrv

oldcyclist said:

These buildings have no gas so were fitted with dual supplies right from the start (Just an old style meter with TWO outputs and a built in timer) The outputs connect to two separate consumer units- one being the switched one feeding hot water and individual storage heater spurs, and the other for lighting and ring mains as usual. Originally the main hot water element fed from the switched supply and a separate immersion at the top of the tank connected to the 24h supply with a switch (with LED) labelled "boost" That worked OK but the newer Quantum Hot Water units are much more efficient and controllable.(but expensive) As with the storage heaters a 24h supply is needed to power the electronics. (Not necessary if you are keeping the original hot water tank)

Thanks, that’s helpful. 
I only have one consumer unit but there’s a couple of large old style switches for the warm air heater. There are spare fuseways but I think a second CU/distribution board for the Quantums would be best. This would replace the isolation switches for the heater.
The Quantum hot water units sounds good. 
The immersion heater I have is single element only. As my E10 hours are mostly daytime, I just turn this on/off when needed.

Supernatural_02

buffymad said:

I’ve just had Quantum QM125RF fitted. Worked out the controls etc but I’ve noticed when heat is “on”, it’s making a clicking noise quite a lot of the time. Very noticeable. Is this just it settling in or shouldn’t it be doing that? Also, when heat is “on” should the fan be blowing all the time? It does for a while, can feel it blasting heat out but then it stops (although I can still feel heat when I put my hand down by the grille). The panel doesn’t show any error codes and says “heat on”. Not sure if it’s doing what it’s meant to do or not! Any help gratefully received. 

I know this is an older comment but I've recently had a QM150 fitted and am finding the same thing happening. I have the heating set to come on at lunchtime for a hour or so but I find that the fan will blow heat out of the vent for 30 seconds and then switch off for a minute before starting up again for another 30 seconds.

I'm assuming this is because the room temperature has reached the set temperature on the Quantum and so the fan is just releasing heat to maintain the temperature, but I wanted to see if others have experienced the same thing?