Daydream thread... without the rose-tinted specs

Itismehonest

This is a Choille on the warpath warning. Get the white flags out while there's still time.

choille

I_have_spoken wrote: »

I had the same thought with that gable-end...that said, you see Grand Design type peeps just epoxy stainless steel ties across and jobs a good 'un.

Well....in the real world you wouldn't get a completion certificate, insurance or be able to sell it. That's just telly stuff.

choille

Itismehonest wrote: »

This is a Choille on the warpath warning. Get the white flags out while there's still time.

I've just been handed a chilled glass of something rather sharp & it aint nails.

ukmaggie45

rhiwfield wrote: »

I get the feeling that the hurdles have been raised too high for the honest applicant

If you're referring to the drop from being able to walk 50 metres to 20 metres under PIP the qualifying distance for Blue Badge remains the same at 50 metres. At least for now! Who knows what the future will bring! And the 20 metre thing may still be chucked out (please God! It's a bloody stupid distance - 50 metres isn't much use, but you'd be pushed to even get as far as a shop from the road at 20 metres!).

lostinrates

ukmaggie45 wrote: »

If you're referring to the drop from being able to walk 50 metres to 20 metres under PIP the qualifying distance for Blue Badge remains the same at 50 metres. At least for now! Who knows what the future will bring! And the 20 metre thing may still be chucked out (please God! It's a bloody stupid distance - 50 metres isn't much use, but you'd be pushed to even get as far as a shop from the road at 20 metres!).

Is it fifty? Where I'd I get a hundred from I wonder?

See, I just don't qualify.

Problem is, places you need to go are further than 50/100 m away and not always on good days. I stay organised for food and supplies but hospital? 100 metres doesn't get you in the door from the disabled carpark even! Let alone across the hospital. The hospital davesnave used to live near is massive. And lots of uphill slopes in buildings. eaier for wheel chairs i guess, but Gradient kills me on a bad day, so I find that very difficult. Level ground is easier.

ukmaggie45

lostinrates wrote: »

Is it fifty? Where I'd I get a hundred from I wonder?

See, I just don't qualify.

Problem is, places you need to go are further than 50/100 m away and not always on good days. I stay organised for food and supplies but hospital? 100 metres doesn't get you in the door from the disabled carpark even! Let alone across the hospital. The hospital davesnave used to live near is massive. And lots of uphill slopes in buildings. eaier for wheel chairs i guess, but Gradient kills me on a bad day, so I find that very difficult. Level ground is easier.

Um, I get the level ground thing! :rotfl: The 50 metre thing is just the standard DLA top rate mobility requirement, if you get top rate mobility component of DLA (as I do) you are automatically elligible for a blue badge. Here's what I found when I looked further:

"How is walking ability assessed?

You will generally only be able to get a blue badge if you can walk only with great difficulty and at an extremely slow pace or with excessive pain. No other factors, such as how difficult you find it to carry objects, will be taken into account.

Your difficulties must be permanent and not temporary. For example, if you have a broken leg, you can’t apply for a blue badge."

From what you've said before, your difficulties are permanent, but fluctuating on a day to day basis? My personal take is that if your GP suggests you apply for a blue badge, go for it! I agree with Rummer's rellie.

COOLTRIKERCHICK

I have been telling hubby that we need to get a structural report, as one wall may need to come down and be re-built, and for the back end corners need under pinning, but he keeps saying, 'its been up for 200 years, its not going to fall down in the next 50..

Just had a bit of a set too again with hubby about it, With me saying that we should get an SE in to give us a report, but he went off on one AGAIN..

YES we haven't got the money to do it all in one go, and yes we have to save a bit, and then do a bit, BUT it looks as though hubby is just like the bloody guy who used to own the house before us:mad::mad::mad:, either that, he is afraid to have a survey done, because then he will realise the actual potential cost of it all to be done..

PLUS.. there are things appearing that you would only know, when you really started stripping back the walls, ceilings etc..

I have always ha a figure in my mind, that it would cost approx. 60K PLUS, to do the work... at that our first aim was to get the house water tight... by doing the outer walls, and extend the roof on the pine ends, as there isn't any over hang of the slates etc..

Right another cuppa, and then off to work..

In your opinion Choille, how much does under pining cost on two end corners???

EDIT.... forgot to say, there is practically no foundations.... which is the way these types of places were built back in the 1840's

COOLTRIKERCHICK

I have spoken, I think I said it in one of my posts, the cracks on the pine end, haven't moved in a long time ( the lime mortar hadn't moved ) the stone mason can stitch them back, by re-placing and re-build the crack lines,

Davesnave

COOLTRIKERCHICK wrote: »

In your opinion Choille, how much does under pining cost on two end corners???

EDIT.... forgot to say, there is practically no foundations.... which is the way these types of places were built back in the 1840's

It was normal not to have to have large foundations until relatively modern times. Our old place, built in 1937, actually had only 10" of foundations on clay. Although the walls were block and render, the builders in their wisdom had included a course of brick below DPC, but they hadn't bothered to use frost proof engineering bricks.....:eek:

I discovered all this when we started building our extension, but there was no time to worry about it, and as the foundations of that were massive because of building over the sewers, sticking another building on the side relieved the problem somewhat.:rotfl:

However, there was still part of the side and all of the frontage not protected, so I returned to that while doing the patio and paths. I excavated beside the foundations, small piece by piece, and replaced the worst crumbling bricks with proper engineering jobbies. As I didn't remove more than a couple at a time, there was no danger of collapse. I also went very deep towards the corner, and eventually I concreted under and beyond that in two stages, underpinning it. It took a while doing the work in such a piecemeal way, but it cost materials only.

Just before we moved, the guy two doors down found he had the same problem, but only when his walls started to move! He had to get someone in to sort it, pronto. I imagine there will be other too by now. Very typical 1930s jerry-building. It was all about style, wide roads and big gardens.

I'm not saying that underpinning your corners would be a breeze, but it might not cost a huge amount either. I'd guess much would depend upon how much shoring-up would be deemed necessary before the work could start, but that really is a guess.

Rummer

:j Did anyone miss that my bathroom is finished?? :j

It still needs to be scrubbed from top to bottom however we have to leave it to dry for 48 hours. They have left it reasonably clean but the white tiles have black smudges from the grout that will need to be removed. However it looks fabulous and we are really delighted with it! We are slowly turning our 1960s house into a Victorian inspired dream home :rotfl:

Raining today however I do not care as I will finally be going out and about today :j