Nice people thread part 7 - a thread in its prime

Doozergirl

sss555s wrote: »

Just remember that when you bleed radiators your system pressure will drop. If my radiators have a lot of air in them, I may have to re-pressurise the boiler before I can bleed them all, and then I'd always re-pressurise the boiler after the "bleeding" is complete.

You may be doing that and it's something different, but try and not get frustrated

This makes sense to me.

GDB2222

I wouldn't go much above 1 bar when you repressurise a cold system, as the pressure increases when the boiler comes on. Then there's a risk that the overpressure valve opens and dumps all the hot water outside. Of course, if you let air out of the system and the pressure drops, you may need to repressurise again to 1 bar after all the air is out.

As LIR says, it's probably wise for her to shiver until the fitters come back and fettle it. She doesn't need to give them an excuse to walk away from their responsibilities.

lostinrates

GDB2222 wrote: »

I wouldn't go much above 1 bar when you repressurise a cold system, as the pressure increases when the boiler comes on. Then there's a risk that the overpressure valve opens and dumps all the hot water outside. Of course, if you let air out of the system and the pressure drops, I mean 1 bar after all the air is out.

As LIR says, it's probably wise for her to shiver until the fitters come back and fettle it. She doesn't need to give them an excuse to walk away from their responsibilities.

I think I remmeber them saying it had to be one bar or below. One of the reasons they wanted to turn it off when fixed on tHe last Saturday nice builder was here was that it was four bar. And needed another expansion vessel. (that was number three).

The plumber was pleased it was done to one bar. Yes, that's right. That's what I rmember.

How come you all know so much about heating?

GDB2222

lostinrates wrote: »

A couple of pallats of woodpellet is not small potatoes.

As you would quickly find out when you cooked them.

zagubov

lostinrates wrote: »

I think I remmeber them saying it had to be one bar or below. One of the reasons they wanted to turn it off when fixed on tHe last Saturday nice builder was here was that it was four bar. And needed another expansion vessel. (that was number three).

The plumber was pleased it was done to one bar. Yes, that's right. That's what I rmember.

How come you all know so much about heating?

We all live closer to the north Pole/Baltic/Siberia than you do.

lostinrates

zagubov wrote: »

We all live closer to the north Pole/Baltic/Siberia than you do.

Gdb doesn't.

I used to live sort of near Lydia, and I didn't know anything. There are peons aboput places round there with cold winds.:D

It works, or ....you get dressed more.:o

sss555s

lostinrates wrote: »

I am beyond frustrated. Frautrated is way back in October. November was 'cross and angry' and December nears 'murderous and resentful'. (I am a person of extremes:o:D) I have actually wondered how I would pellet horrid heating man and how long he would provide heat for (I think about two hours.)

Very little air comes out. I don't know how to repressure, I never knew we had too.

It's a 'sealed' system, if that makes any difference. It has eated way more pellets than it was meant to aswell, (again 'toothing problems' and warming up a frozen house ' they say but, those toothing problems are expensive. A couple of pallats of woodpellet is not small potatoes.

On my system there is a flexi pipe from the main water to the heating system pipe. This is just below and to the side of the boiler.
There is a "turn" valve that lets mains water into the sealed heating system.
Every system has this sort of way of getting mains water into your CH system.

It can look a bit like this...

There should be a pressure gauge on the panel of your boiler. It may be behind a "flap".
Some boilers have a pressurise button on the front too.

This is a typical pressure guage second from the right hand side. It may be digital though...

It should say in the manual. What make and model is it?

Be prepared to have to pressurise your system on one or more occasions each year.

zagubov

lostinrates wrote: »

Gdb doesn't.

I used to live sort of near Lydia, and I didn't know anything. There are peons aboput places round there with cold winds.:D

It works, or ....you get dressed more.:o

I thought he lived vaguely in the South East of England and north of the Thames!;)

Still, as they say in Norway, there's no such thing as bad weather, just bad clothing. :beer:

sss555s

lostinrates wrote: »

I think I remmeber them saying it had to be one bar or below. One of the reasons they wanted to turn it off when fixed on tHe last Saturday nice builder was here was that it was four bar. And needed another expansion vessel. (that was number three).

The plumber was pleased it was done to one bar. Yes, that's right. That's what I rmember.

How come you all know so much about heating?

The pressure gauge on your boiler will have a red line to show you the maximum pressure. For mine the main water pressure is lower than the red line so I can let it go to as high as it will go.

I thought the cut off was 0.5 bar and the higher limit was 2.5-3 bar. I may be wrong though.

Bleeding your radiators and pressurising your system is a system user job and shouldn't have bearing on warranty. You wouldn't call a heating engineer out to pressurise your heating boiler.

Might be an idea to give the heating engineer a call and ask him if it's ok to pressurise the system. If he says no then tell him to come out a fix it as it has failed


Edit: Have a read of this... http://www.centralheatingguide.co.uk/how-to-re-pressurise-your-central-heating-system.html

silvercar

GDB2222 wrote: »

Actually, LIR, it's probably the other way around, ie the boiler is not on because the water pressure is zero. The water pressure needs to be at 1 for the boiler to fire. At least that's my guess without seeing your system, which sounds rather a complicated one.

There's usually a very small tap next to the pressure vessel that you can turn to let more water into the system to repressurise it. On the other hand, if the system has suddenly depressurised itself only a week after being commissioned that could indicate something else is wrong. My guess is that it vented itself through the pressure relief valve, but the question is why it did that in the first place?

Totally agree with this. We had a problem of dropping pressure and I was topping it up twice a week. When I called the men in, they said there was little room left in the expansion vessel (or maybe something else) as it was so full of water - but it was exactly the right thing to do as a temporary measure.

Boilers have safety mechanisms, so if the pressure gets too high, it vents some water out to reduce the pressure.

The other option, and it may seem less scary, is to release some water from a radiator through the bleed tap. According to the guys on the DIY board, that will allow the radiator to act as the pressure vessel.

I'd follow ssssss's advice and pictures - but you may want to phone the unhelpful engineers first.