nuaire drimaster

richardc1983

Robwiz wrote: »

You go back and read my posts again! We don't need heating on upstairs if the Drimaster is not running. There is sufficient warm air rising from downstairs but not enough to counter the icy chill from the Drimaster.

You obviously love your Drimaster and I'm very pleased for you that it has solved your problems. As I have written, it created new problems for me which mean I will be better off without it. I also conclude that heat recovery extractors installed in bathrooms are a more elegant solution.

However, telling me that because you have a good experience with the product that I should too is not very persuasive. I log temperature and humidity from four sensors around the house and the data from these tells me the Drimaster was not effective in my home whilst reducing our levels of comfort and increasing our heating demand.

The dehumidifier uses 300 W (I have an energy monitor); to heat the bedrooms would require 4 kW.

I'm not going to rip the Drimaster out. I shall remove it very carefully so that I can sell it in good condition. It's better that someone else has the opportunity to use it (and makes a saving on the new price) than it gets damaged by sitting unused in my loft.

Of course if we could all afford heat recovery ventilation in the house we would have it but they are quite expensive and a lot of work to get them fitted through the wall. Not a simple as replacing an extractor fan.

4kw of heat from you boiler is minimal and warming upstairs wouldn't result In a constant use of 4kw. Are you saying the drimaster hasn't worked at all despite the cooler upstairs?

The analogy I use is this; in your car when your windows are misted up in winter if you use the recirculating option and heating on with full fan speed you will not clear the windows at all in fact it will make it worse as there is no air changes, turn the air con (dehumidifier) on with the recirculating option on this will help to clear as the air con dries the air however if you turn recirc off so fresh air comes into the car and is heated up by the Heater the windows will clear very quickly. This is because cold air holds less moisture so this enables the surrounding surfaces with air circulating to in effect collect the moisture in the air.. This air then finds it way out of the car by the blowers being on and is replaced by more fresh dry air. Having the air con as well just makes it even quicker but you need fresh air.

marmitemayhem

Nice to see other people saying the Drimasters work! They are snake oil, but they do work.... I've moved my PIV post on travel blog to a dedicated site as it wasn't really travel related! Joys of watching boring film repeats over Christmas!


Its now: http://www.drimaster-piv-condensation-system.co.uk/


Richard - your analogy about the car is absolutely spot on. Sealing up houses is a naff idea and causes the problem. Wearing glasses when heavy breathing under the duvet steams them up Makes it a bit obvious really.... On Grand Designs, all "airtight" houses have massive air-handling plant to move air around, and heat-exchange with fresh air - sealing up without this would be mould/condensation heaven.


If you have mould/condensation, do research, and firstly remove any sources of moisture you can (e.g. kitchen/bathroom extractors; wet clothes etc); and then ventilate (PIV/windows etc).


Yeah - PIV may cost a bit if you run the heater over winter, but even at "worst case" costs, the lack of damage to walls, d!cor etc is well worth it. The solar gains help a bit, and the less humid air can be "cooler" than normal and feel the same, so heating can be a degree or two cooler.


Good luck everyone solving this issue - hope our info site helps

richardc1983

I'm gonna turn ours down a bit as inside humidity is 38% lovely and fresh. Even then though the house doesn't feel cold I don't think in fact it's much warmer. If you look at commercial buildings they have air handling units to provide fresh air so the building is healthy and stale air is replaced by fresh clean air. The same should happen in residential buildings.

It got down to -6c here last night coldest night of the year, kitchen had about 1cm of condensation at the bottom and main bedroom door was left ajar and no condensation at all. Housemates like to keep their door shut when they go to bed so their window had about 4 inches of condensation which once I had opened their door to allow the drimaster to do its work clearer within a few hours. It's gonna be another cold one here tonight by the looks of it.

Yes the car is a good way of looking at it as is any other analogy to help people understand.

pd001

Robwiz wrote: »

You go back and read my posts again! We don't need heating on upstairs if the Drimaster is not running. There is sufficient warm air rising from downstairs but not enough to counter the icy chill from the Drimaster.

You obviously love your Drimaster and I'm very pleased for you that it has solved your problems. As I have written, it created new problems for me which mean I will be better off without it. I also conclude that heat recovery extractors installed in bathrooms are a more elegant solution.

However, telling me that because you have a good experience with the product that I should too is not very persuasive. I log temperature and humidity from four sensors around the house and the data from these tells me the Drimaster was not effective in my home whilst reducing our levels of comfort and increasing our heating demand.

The dehumidifier uses 300 W (I have an energy monitor); to heat the bedrooms would require 4 kW.

I'm not going to rip the Drimaster out. I shall remove it very carefully so that I can sell it in good condition. It's better that someone else has the opportunity to use it (and makes a saving on the new price) than it gets damaged by sitting unused in my loft.

Did you eventually remove your Drimaster system?

cyclonebri1

Robwiz wrote: »

You go back and read my posts again! We don't need heating on upstairs if the Drimaster is not running. There is sufficient warm air rising from downstairs but not enough to counter the icy chill from the Drimaster.

You obviously love your Drimaster and I'm very pleased for you that it has solved your problems. As I have written, it created new problems for me which mean I will be better off without it. I also conclude that heat recovery extractors installed in bathrooms are a more elegant solution.

However, telling me that because you have a good experience with the product that I should too is not very persuasive. I log temperature and humidity from four sensors around the house and the data from these tells me the Drimaster was not effective in my home whilst reducing our levels of comfort and increasing our heating demand.

The dehumidifier uses 300 W (I have an energy monitor); to heat the bedrooms would require 4 kW.

I'm not going to rip the Drimaster out. I shall remove it very carefully so that I can sell it in good condition. It's better that someone else has the opportunity to use it (and makes a saving on the new price) than it gets damaged by sitting unused in my loft.

Drymaster has a reputation for using spam to support itself, you have realised this, :T, others need to open their minds a little

richardc1983

I'm not with you? That poster was against the drimaster?

inasnum

cyclonebri1 wrote: »

Drymaster has a reputation for using spam to support itself, you have realised this, :T, others need to open their minds a little

Nice.... first time I've been called spam :-) just as well people do actually research things themselves and come up with their own judgement.

richardc1983

inasnum wrote: »

Nice.... first time I've been called spam :-) just as well people do actually research things themselves and come up with their own judgement.

I think he was referring to the fact that you have seen past some sort of spam that drimaster use to sell their products and is encouraging others to do the same? Whatever he is referring to.

dampdaveski

I've fitted thousands of drimaster units over the years (including my own house) and they are a very good tool for controlling condensation.
BUT I think the latter posts on this thread do confirm that they are NOT a solution for everyone.
The biggest problem is all the halfwits that sell them on 'internet auction sites' have no idea what they are selling.
Good advice from a competent installer BEFORE you purchase would be the best course of action. Playing devils advocate I would say that because i'm an installer ;o)
In the same vein I don't take any of my units out!
)
DD

Kiran

Quick question regarding the heated model, can the heating supply be controlled by a seperate 3 pin plug? If so this could be wired to a wifi timer socket that would allow heating when you were likely to want it e.g. in the evenings but also allow you to boost it on the overide.

Does this sound plausable as the only negative I can see at the moment is the cooler air which could be sorted via the preheat.

Thanks