nuaire drimaster

richardc1983

Robwiz wrote: »

We had the basic version installed in September. Didn't really see any difference in condensation at first, then from October, when the loft temperature dropped to around 8º, it cooled upstairs way too much.

These may be okay to install in rental properties to protect from damp and mould, but if it's your own home then extractors in kitchen and bathrooms plus a dehumidifier would be a better investment.

Turn the fan speed down if it's an issue or increase heating temperature as you would spend this additional money on buying and running a dehumidifier

Robwiz

richardc1983 wrote: »

Turn the fan speed down if it's an issue or increase heating temperature as you would spend this additional money on buying and running a dehumidifier

We have switched the Drimaster off. We already have a dehumidifier and thought the Drimaster might be more energy efficient. It does use less electricity but we don't usually heat upstairs (except for bathrooms) so it was way too cold with the Drimaster pumping cold air in from the loft. It disturbed the flow of warm air rising from downstairs and cancelled out the solar gains.

In contrast the dehumidifier introduces heat and there is the additional latent heat given up by the condensate.

My conclusion is that a good dehumidifier, like a Mitsubishi, is a better investment than a Drimaster (at around £200) plus the cost of installation (£100-ish but not certain as we had three other jobs done at the same time).

richardc1983

Robwiz wrote: »

We have switched the Drimaster off. We already have a dehumidifier and thought the Drimaster might be more energy efficient. It does use less electricity but we don't usually heat upstairs (except for bathrooms) so it was way too cold with the Drimaster pumping cold air in from the loft. It disturbed the flow of warm air rising from downstairs and cancelled out the solar gains.

In contrast the dehumidifier introduces heat and there is the additional latent heat given up by the condensate.

My conclusion is that a good dehumidifier, like a Mitsubishi, is a better investment than a Drimaster (at around £200) plus the cost of installation (£100-ish but not certain as we had three other jobs done at the same time).

What you will spend on electricity running the dehumidifier as well as the initial outlay will far exceed the Drimaster which is introducing fresh air into the house rather than recycling stale air. We only really heat the bathroom upstairs and the bedrooms are set to low but I agree upstairs was getting cool so we turned the fan speed down and this has made a massive difference. It's far cheaper to run the Drimaster than a dehumidifier. I have tried both. It just takes a bit of adjustment.

You will also cause possible damage t the internals of the Drimaster totally if you just turn it completely off as condensation will condense and form in the electrical components due to being no airflow warm humid air will rise up like through the vent & ducting like a chimney and cause this issue. At least turn it onto the minimum setting and if that's still an issue introduce a little heat upstairs. Warm and fresh air are essential at resolving damp problems. No one is saying you have to have it as warm as downstairs but it wouldn't cost much to have it on low. Much less than running a dehumidifier that's for sure.

smifffy1989

We installed our own drimaster early November. Our house is a 3 bed semi and it is on setting 2. You can just about feel the air blow when you put your hand against it but I wouldn't say the hall is that much cooler than before.

I would just change the setting to low if it is too cold for you

Robwiz

I don't think ours will be damaged by sitting idle. I'm going to cut my losses by taking it out and selling it on that auction site. Thanks for your suggestions though.

With hindsight, installing the Drimaster was a daft idea, having spent hours eliminating air leaks and thermal bridges around the house only to pump cold air in from the loft. A heat recovery extractor in the bathroom would have made more sense. I regret being taken in by all the positive forum posts about the Drimaster. Hopefully anyone searching in future will read that it's not the wonder cure for condensation that many suggest because it reduces internal temperatures. As the temperature goes down the relative humidity goes up cancelling out the gains.

inasnum

First post, felt I had too as I installed my own Drimaster myself into our 2 bed end terraced house after suffering condensation and mould on the window sills last year!
Its been in for 2 months and I've not seen the mould return, the condensation only appears when having a bath/shower (we have our water hot!) and clears up in minutes.
Prior to fitting the drimaster we had to open up windows, and I can assure you when its 3DEGC outside its far more noticeable than drawing in air from the loft which is naturally warmer!
We do have an extract fan in the bathroom and prior to the drimaster always left our bedroom window slightly ajar.


It works - end of, no more mould, no issues with condensation not clearing (even using the steamer in the kitchen no longer requires the window being wide open!).


The hall is slightly cooler, really only noticeable when its freezing outside, there is no draft and was easy to set up following the instructions (we blocked off one side and settled on speed 2).


As we get in the warmer months the drimaster will run and boost speed to take advantage of the warmer air in the loft and potentially lower the heating cost during the warmer spells.


Another advantage is that we can keep the window shut avoiding the road noise :-)
The house also feels fresher as its constantly getting fresh air.


We tried a dehumidifier but found it really only got moisture out of the air when drying clothes, didn't do much for the majority of the time.


Just wanted to put a positive post here in case someone is considering it, it may depend on your house and how its set up. But in our case - very happy with result!

richardc1983

Robwiz wrote: »

I don't think ours will be damaged by sitting idle. I'm going to cut my losses by taking it out and selling it on that auction site. Thanks for your suggestions though.

With hindsight, installing the Drimaster was a daft idea, having spent hours eliminating air leaks and thermal bridges around the house only to pump cold air in from the loft. A heat recovery extractor in the bathroom would have made more sense. I regret being taken in by all the positive forum posts about the Drimaster. Hopefully anyone searching in future will read that it's not the wonder cure for condensation that many suggest because it reduces internal temperatures. As the temperature goes down the relative humidity goes up cancelling out the gains.

Go back and read my message. The unit will be damaged if warm air flows back up the ducting and condensing on the cold surfaces of the unit as its in the loft. The same way as it condenses on glass in winter. This is why a constant air flow is required to ensure this doesn't happen. It also states in the instructions.

You don't want to heat your upstairs so you are going to rip something out that has very postive reviews all over - this product has been going for 20+ years. You then say your going to run a dehumidifier that can use 500w because it gives out warm air. How about you try putting the heating on upstairs and turning the fan speed down if it's too draughty. This has solved all my problems I wish I had got one sooner. It only used 8w on speed setting 2! It's common sense that fresh clean air is lower in humidity than a house producing air. There has to be a compromise between a dry warm house or a damp cold house and that either opening windows to create plenty of air flow by which you have to have the heating on anyway or using the drimaster. You perhaps should have gone for the drimaster heat to temper the air slightly so it's not as cold.

inasnum

I think its important to bear in mind that houses do create moisture, washing up, bathing, drying clothes, even us humans produce lots of moisture in breathing! In the days of old when houses were less efficient there were drafts which would dilute the moisture in the air. Modern houses with double glazing etc offer no route for fresh air. Its the age old issue, fresh air isn't warm in winter! I can see dehumidifiers may help but these are costly to run continuously and are just recirculating the same air. I believe its better to allow fresh air in and heat that.


No option is free or ideal but its that or batton down the hatches and live in a humid, mouldy, unhealthy environment!

richardc1983

inasnum wrote: »

I think its important to bear in mind that houses do create moisture, washing up, bathing, drying clothes, even us humans produce lots of moisture in breathing! In the days of old when houses were less efficient there were drafts which would dilute the moisture in the air. Modern houses with double glazing etc offer no route for fresh air. Its the age old issue, fresh air isn't warm in winter! I can see dehumidifiers may help but these are costly to run continuously and are just recirculating the same air. I believe its better to allow fresh air in and heat that.


No option is free or ideal but its that or batton down the hatches and live in a humid, mouldy, unhealthy environment!

Agree completely could do with your comments over on this thread... http://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/showthread.php?t=1464827&goto=newpost&utm_source=MSE_FS&utm_medium=Email&utm_term=16-Dec-14

Robwiz

richardc1983 wrote: »

Go back and read my message. The unit will be damaged if warm air flows back up the ducting and condensing on the cold surfaces of the unit as its in the loft. The same way as it condenses on glass in winter. This is why a constant air flow is required to ensure this doesn't happen. It also states in the instructions.

You don't want to heat your upstairs so you are going to rip something out that has very postive reviews all over - this product has been going for 20+ years. You then say your going to run a dehumidifier that can use 500w because it gives out warm air. How about you try putting the heating on upstairs and turning the fan speed down if it's too draughty. This has solved all my problems I wish I had got one sooner. It only used 8w on speed setting 2! It's common sense that fresh clean air is lower in humidity than a house producing air. There has to be a compromise between a dry warm house or a damp cold house and that either opening windows to create plenty of air flow by which you have to have the heating on anyway or using the drimaster. You perhaps should have gone for the drimaster heat to temper the air slightly so it's not as cold.

You go back and read my posts again! We don't need heating on upstairs if the Drimaster is not running. There is sufficient warm air rising from downstairs but not enough to counter the icy chill from the Drimaster.

You obviously love your Drimaster and I'm very pleased for you that it has solved your problems. As I have written, it created new problems for me which mean I will be better off without it. I also conclude that heat recovery extractors installed in bathrooms are a more elegant solution.

However, telling me that because you have a good experience with the product that I should too is not very persuasive. I log temperature and humidity from four sensors around the house and the data from these tells me the Drimaster was not effective in my home whilst reducing our levels of comfort and increasing our heating demand.

The dehumidifier uses 300 W (I have an energy monitor); to heat the bedrooms would require 4 kW.

I'm not going to rip the Drimaster out. I shall remove it very carefully so that I can sell it in good condition. It's better that someone else has the opportunity to use it (and makes a saving on the new price) than it gets damaged by sitting unused in my loft.