Engine starts but car won't move...

[Deleted User]

Astras are different.

The handbrake operating arm is on the outside.

rainbow_791

I am rubbish with cars so will be calling garage in morning to come out, I hope this is not going to cost too much. Based on the fact one brake has already been frees so it seems that is all that I need to happen to the other side, does this sound like a costly job? Thanks

[Deleted User]

I wouldn't just get them to free off the brakes. That would only be a temporary fix.

I'd have then strip, check, clean and lubricate.

If the shoes are getting close to worn out, I'd have them replaced too. Saves paying again, to have them replaced later.

rainbow_791 wrote: »

does this sound like a costly job? Thanks

Not especially, but it obviously depends on how much time it takes to free off the brakes, and what, if any, parts are needed.

Strider590

rainbow_791 wrote: »

I always thought to drive through flood water slowly, but it is so rare that I have to drive through anything more than a puddle

Yeah, the most common reason to get stuck is water flowing up into the exhaust, hence always drive through at a speed that gives enough momentum to get through AND give it some gas to stop water entering the exhaust.

Electrically though, water has a very high electrical resistance (several million ohms per sqcm) so the 12v system on a car isn't affected by water, only the HT end at the coil and spark plugs would ever be affected if you went in deep enough for long enough.

It's possible to flood the engine if a splash of water gets into the air intake, but most cars have drainage holes in the airbox to prevent this.

When people get stuck in water it's often because the pillock in front was driving too slowly

[Deleted User]

Strider590 wrote: »

water has a very high electrical resistance

When pure, but flood water is going to be anything but pure.

Strider590

Bedsit_Bob wrote: »

When pure, but flood water is going to be anything but pure.

But still not enough to short out 12v..... (unless there are flakes of some highly conductive and boyant material mixed in with it)

I should point out though, that once you get to mains voltage and beyond, the resistance of water is not great enough to prevent substantial current flow....

Norman_Castle

I always thought to drive through flood water slowly

You should drive through flood water slowly.

Strider590

Norman_Castle wrote: »

You should drive through flood water slowly.

You see, speed isn't the important factor.... Most people will drive through at low speed and low RPM, this is where the problems occur.
But most people don't understand cars and will read "slow" as "quiet" and "low engine speed".

The ideal speed will create a minimum bow wave, but keep the engine at high rpm.

mikey72

Strider590 wrote: »

You see, speed isn't the important factor.... Most people will drive through at low speed and low RPM, this is where the problems occur.
But most people don't understand cars and will read "slow" as "quiet" and "low engine speed".

The ideal speed will create a minimum bow wave, but keep the engine at high rpm.

I think you're trying to say keep it in first, or maybe second. Go slowly, but keep the revs up.

vaio

water in the exhaust is a non problem, many many more engines are wreaked by hydro locking due to going too fast and and the bow wave finding it's way into the intake side.

Even at tick over mine is pumping a cubic metre plus of air out through the exhaust every minute and even submerging the exhaust in water isn't going to stop that air flow