MOT failure- what to do next?

BigDee2

Excellent. Thanks.

Rossy.

The first ball joing splitter will do the job just as good as the second link

Me personally i'd go for the first ball joint splitter as it's a few ££ cheaper

Do the job yourself, you'll not only save a few ££, but you'll gain usefull skills for future reference.

I do 90% of the work on my cars now. Infact this week i'm attempting a turbo rebuild!

Just take your time and if your not sure then stop, read, google whatever to gain info.

Cars are not as hard to work on like most think.

Flying-High_2

Rossy. wrote: »

. Infact this week i'm attempting a turbo rebuild!

.

What make of Turbo?... Straightforward but make sure its balanced 100% or it'll be scrap within minutes...

Kilty_2

Rossy. wrote: »

Infact this week i'm attempting a turbo rebuild!

Uh-oh - famous 1.9 dCi turbo strikes again ?

Rossy.

Flying-High wrote: »

What make of Turbo?... Straightforward but make sure its balanced 100% or it'll be scrap within minutes...

It's a Garrett unit for my diesel car

The turbo oil feed had a leak for ages and i suppose the bearings weren't getting the oil they needed

The compressor side is spooling ,but the exhaust turbine is scraping against the housing, leading me to believe that the shaft has been bent

I'll order a turbo rebuild kit which includes everything including new turbines and then my mechanic will balance the turbo for me

Otherwise i'm looking at £650+ for a new turbo

£320 for a recon unit

or my option £100 rebuild kit and do myself.

I'm very mechanically minded, and have done various repairs on cars before so i may as well give it a shot

Infact i may remove the turbo this afternoon with a few beers seeing as it's so nice today

Rossy.

Kilty wrote: »

Uh-oh - famous 1.9 dCi turbo strikes again ?

Yup last week.

Luckily i was stationary and the engine was idling.

Lots of black smoke though :rotfl:

Not bad seeing as it's just touched 161 thousand miles on original components

asbokid

BigDee2 wrote: »

Hammyman - is that £32 for the complete strut or just the shockabsorber?

I had a look at some youtube videos last night and was thinking that separating the shocky from the strut doesn't look very difficult with the coil spring compressor tool. Hmm.

asbokid - thanks for the providing details of the work involved. The possibility of finding corroded nuts was something I was little worried about. When I take the wheel off to have a look, I'll spray the bolts with WD40, giving enough time to penetrate before the actual repair which may be in a couple of days.

What type of Ball Joint Separator would be better:

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cht221-ball-joint-separator
or
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cht222-ball-joint-remover
...maybe this will have less chance of damaging any rubber on the ball joint.

Go for the second one, the scissor type. That's the kind I use. Mine has lasted twenty years!

Are the Hub nut sockets available from Motor factors or Toyota only?

The nut or the socket to fit it? A good factors should sell both. A driveshaft nut is nearly always supplied with a new CV joint if you get really stuck.

I don't have scaffold type pole, where/what can I buy that is similar?

Use a two foot breaker bar. £6 from ebay for a Sealey.

My main concern about both jobs is how easily parts will come apart. Fingers crossed.

Take it steady and enjoy it as a pleasurable challenge!

I know only one shock will be replaced but tbh the car does very little mileage and within town.

Changing a complete strut for another one, is not really a job at all. The CV boot is a bit more involved, but not difficult.

Good luck!

P.S. There are much better forums than this one for DIY mechanics. There must be a forum specifically for Toyotas or perhaps even Carenas?

vaio

Rossy. wrote: »

It's a Garrett unit for my diesel car

The turbo oil feed had a leak for ages and i suppose the bearings weren't getting the oil they needed

The compressor side is spooling ,but the exhaust turbine is scraping against the housing, leading me to believe that the shaft has been bent

I'll order a turbo rebuild kit which includes everything including new turbines and then my mechanic will balance the turbo for me

Otherwise i'm looking at £650+ for a new turbo

£320 for a recon unit

or my option £100 rebuild kit and do myself.

I'm very mechanically minded, and have done various repairs on cars before so i may as well give it a shot

Infact i may remove the turbo this afternoon with a few beers seeing as it's so nice today

Check before you spend any money as my understanding was that bearing and seals can be repaired but if you have rotating things touching non rotating things when they shouldn’t then the unit is scrap.

Balancing them is a specialist high tech job due to the very high speeds & tiny force measurements involved, wouldn’t have thought a “mechanic” would have the kit to do it, is he sending it away?

Finally, when I was looking I found you could buy a new “cassette” which is the middle bit. It comes ready assembled and balanced and all you have to do is bolt your existing undamaged exhaust & inlet housings to it. Might be worth a look to see if you can find one.

BigDee2

Hi asbokid,

I was in town today and saw some scaffolding chaps and I asked if they could spare some scaffolding poles from their truck. The chap gave me two - a 4ft and a shorter one. He didn't ask for money but I gave him a couple of quid and he was OK with that.

I thought having these poles handy would be useful for any jobs that require that extra bit of leverage. I know it's not such a big deal about the poles but if I was chuffed.

Thanks again for the extra info you have provided.

pendulum

Just don't extend a ratchet with a scaffold pole or you'll break the mechanism. Sorry if that sounds obvious. Good luck

Post pictures if you get stuck or even just to show others how to do it