MOT failure- what to do next?

BigDee2

That Screwfix torque wrench will probably do the trick & a good price. Nice one.

Thanks.

mikey72

As to which strut is on the 2.0gli, I'd ring buypartsby, ask them for the part number, then see which other variants it fits on there website, or email the seller in your ebay link and see if they can tell you if it fits yours.

asbokid

mikey72 wrote: »

I've got this one

http://www.screwfix.com/p/reversible-torque-wrench/18289

it seems fine so far.

that's the one i use! i recall they are german. i've never checked the calibration, but they are certainly well made. from time to time, LIDL sells a pretty much identical model for the same price.

societys_child

mikey72 wrote: »

I don't like the split boots, even a tiny amount of grease and they don't stick well.

Surgical precision!! (A tiny amount of grease and it wont stick at all)

It's lasted 3 months which is more than I expected - As I said, only used 'cos I had it and the job was done in half an hour and back for a free re-test. :j If it splits, not a great loss and will just have to do it properly.

asbokid

BigDee2 wrote: »

How can I check the variant of my car? I had a look at the V5C document and could not tell what to look for.

The VIN usually indicates the exact vehicle model, but you may need to refer to Toyota to get the number decoded. Is there an owners' club for that model? Car enthusiasts are always a mine of information.

For the complete strut, what should I ask the seller on ebay before purchase to ensure it's the right one? Yes, it's difficult to say what the seller's meaning of "good condition" is. I guess as long as it's not leaking, it should be OK.

Hmm.. A strut can be very worn out well before it leaks.

So no specialist tools needed here?

Are you going to replace both the CV boot and the rear suspension strut?

For both jobs, you will need axle stands, and a decent vehicle jack. To change the CV boot, you will need a socket large enough to undo the driveshaft nut. It's usually too large (28-32mm) to be found in a typical socket set.

The driveshaft nut can also be very tight, and a long "wrecker bar" or a scaffold pole on a heavy wrench will probably be needed to undo it.

Make sure that you know where the correct jacking points are on the vehicle chassis and the correct places to position the axle stands. The Haynes manual usually has illustrations, and a host of caveats, like putting the vehicle in gear, and chocking the wheels, etc. You really should consult the manual for all safety warnings.

The rear suspension strut is bolted at the top to the vehicle body, somewhere inside the cabin. The strut is fixed at the bottom using a couple of larger bolts to the hub. It's commonplace to find that the lower bolts on the strut are very corroded since they are so near to the road. You might find that a socket will not stay on these corroded bolts. Sometimes the bolts have to be cut off, or perhaps cracked off using a bolt splitter. These tools are just a few pounds from somewhere like Screwfix and will save you a lot of wasted time and grazed knuckles. If you need to cut them off, you will have to source replacement bolts. Maybe the guy selling that strut can supply some spare fixing bolts, just in case.

For the CV boot, the cone is used to stretch the boot over the CV joint. When fitting the boot, the cone saves having to remove the joint from the driveshaft. Keep the area very clean when you do remove the boot. If the CV boot has been ripped for a while, a lot of detritutus may already have gotten into the CV joint. If so, it is sensible to remove the CV joint (retained usually by a circlip) from the driveshaft for washing in paraffin or some other solvent, before refitting.

Some people use heavy duty plastic cable ties to retain the CV boot to the driveshaft, while others insist on using metal bands or jubilee clips.

While the road wheel is off, examine the brake pads, and the discs, and for the front wheel, check the condition of the lower ball joint, and the track rod end.

When refitting, torque all of the bolts to their correct specifications. These specs are usually listed in the Haynes manual for the vehicle. Several people are currently selling a Carina E 1992-1997 Haynes manual on ebay for £3 or so. Money well spent.

When I asked the MOT tester if I have to replace both shocks (for the same reason mentioned already), he said no, just replace the damaged one only. I'd probably be OK with that. Thanks very much.

Sounds like a reasonable mechanic. Of course, that's not to say the vehicle will drive nicely afterwards.. Do one side first, and then see.

Matt1977

jase1 wrote: »

One thing I would say though is that I'd have thought it would be a good idea to replace the shocks in pairs.

I also thought shocks had to be replaced in pairs! :huh:

I think the outlay to keep the Toyota on the road for another year is worth it - especially if it has been a good car to date.

Hammyman

mikey72 wrote: »

Oh dear.

Rear strut isn't the same as a rear shock with a bolt at each end to replace, and if you can get one for £30 delivered, post it up for the op.

I can buy brand new front ones for my MK3 Mondeo direct from Monroe for £32......

A budget brand one should be easily £30.

mikey72

Hammyman wrote: »

I can buy brand new front ones for my MK3 Mondeo direct from Monroe for £32......


A budget brand one should be easily £30.

I can buy them for £12 for one of my cars.
You're ok though, asbokid found a link for you, I assume you couldn't.

BigDee2

Hammyman - is that £32 for the complete strut or just the shockabsorber?

I had a look at some youtube videos last night and was thinking that separating the shocky from the strut doesn't look very difficult with the coil spring compressor tool. Hmm.

asbokid - thanks for the providing details of the work involved. The possibility of finding corroded nuts was something I was little worried about. When I take the wheel off to have a look, I'll spray the bolts with WD40, giving enough time to penetrate before the actual repair which may be in a couple of days.

What type of Ball Joint Separator would be better:

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cht221-ball-joint-separator
or
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cht222-ball-joint-remover
...maybe this will have less chance of damaging any rubber on the ball joint.

Are the Hub nut sockets available from Motor factors or Toyota only?

I don't have scaffold type pole, where/what can I buy that is similar?

My main concern about both jobs is how easily parts will come apart. Fingers crossed.

I know only one shock will be replaced but tbh the car does very little mileage and within town.

Thank you.

mikey72

BigDee2 wrote: »

Hammyman - is that £32 for the complete strut or just the shockabsorber?

I had a look at some youtube videos last night and was thinking that separating the shocky from the strut doesn't look very difficult with the coil spring compressor tool. Hmm.

asbokid - thanks for the providing details of the work involved. The possibility of finding corroded nuts was something I was little worried about. When I take the wheel off to have a look, I'll spray the bolts with WD40, giving enough time to penetrate before the actual repair which may be in a couple of days.

What type of Ball Joint Separator would be better:

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cht221-ball-joint-separator
or
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cht222-ball-joint-remover
...maybe this will have less chance of damaging any rubber on the ball joint.

Are the Hub nut sockets available from Motor factors or Toyota only?

I don't have scaffold type pole, where/what can I buy that is similar?

My main concern about both jobs is how easily parts will come apart. Fingers crossed.

I know only one shock will be replaced but tbh the car does very little mileage and within town.

Thank you.

Most hub nuts are dealer parts, some you can reuse, some you can't. Usually whether they have a split pin or if they're peened over.

The use of the pole depends on the torque needed, sometimes you can use a normal t bar.

I always like the second type of ball joint splitter.
The one I use is this type
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_173425_langId_-1_categoryId_165469
but pricey from Halfords though.

(for the track rod end)

Ball joint on the bottom of the strut came off with an 8ft length of 3x5 on the wishbone, and jumping on it on the last one.