MOT failure- what to do next?

Flying-High_2

Rossy. wrote: »

It's a Garrett unit for my diesel car

The turbo oil feed had a leak for ages and i suppose the bearings weren't getting the oil they needed

The compressor side is spooling ,but the exhaust turbine is scraping against the housing, leading me to believe that the shaft has been bent

I'll order a turbo rebuild kit which includes everything including new turbines and then my mechanic will balance the turbo for me

Otherwise i'm looking at £650+ for a new turbo

£320 for a recon unit

or my option £100 rebuild kit and do myself.

I'm very mechanically minded, and have done various repairs on cars before so i may as well give it a shot

Infact i may remove the turbo this afternoon with a few beers seeing as it's so nice today

Well worth ago!! Hopefully the housing wont be scrap after the exhaust comp wheel rubbing.

asbokid

mikey72 wrote: »

I always push down, so I don't put my back out. Quite often I just jump on the bar.
226Nm is enough to shift. Probably the 4 ft scaffolding bar.

That's curious! Perhaps it's just me then, but I find it harder to bear down. Pushing is limited by body weight, and the force of the jump.

When pulling up on a bar, you can use the muscles in your arms, your legs and your back to put force into it. I find it offers a bit more control as well.

Each to their own, though!

Excepting the crankshaft pulley bolt, have yet to find any fixing on a car that was too tight to undo by muscle alone.

When you do your own motor mechanics, you soon discover where "professionals" before you have used the wrong tool for the job, e.g. the rounded and grossly overtightened nuts from indiscriminate use of an air wrench. Or the !!!!!! in the garage who was too lazy to find the correct ring spanner and used mole grips or pliers on the delicate bleed nipples of the brake calipers.

alastairq

or..as is observed in a famous manual...every stubborn nut can be got off 6 times, with a chisel and lump hammer....

[John Muir....''How to keep your Volkswagen alive'']

BigDee2

I was under the car today check out what is involved with the repairs and have taken some photos which are here (sorry they are not in order but the titles will help):

http://s787.photobucket.com/albums/yy153/BigDee101/Toyota%20Carina%20E/


REAR STRUT (photos 1,2,3,4,10,11):

- I've loosened the brake pipe bracket on strut.
- I've loosened the anti-roll bar link bolt.
- but the two bolts at the bottom of the strut are very tight. I guess this is where I'd need the Breaker Bar.
- when the two strut bolts are removed, does the strut fall straight down (assuming the upper 3 bolts are off) or will I end up prising it away from the hub with a crowbar? my only concern is that I don't want to damage the brake pipe which looks like it's in the way.
- I think I'll be able to replace the strut with a a new shocky. I'm feeling more confident about changing it rather than buy the full 2nd hand one from ebay, which I mentioned earlier.
- can you get rubber shock absorber covers as the existing one is has perished (within the coil spring)? are they necessary?


FRONT HUB (photos 5,6,7,8,9):

Do I have to do the following (as Haynes has instructions to remove the complete driveshaft, which we are not doing):

- Slacken Hub nut whilst the wheel is on the ground or later get someone to depress the brake (when wheel is off)?
- Remove the Track Rod End using Ball Joint Separator (??) Do I have to replace the split pin in the bolt?
- Remove the Ball Joint at the bottom by loosening the bolt and then a crowbar and jumping down on it?
- please clarify the two above steps.
- Do I have to replace the split pin in the bolts?
- Loosen the two strut bolts (I have managed to loosen the upper one already).
- The lower one will need the Breaker Bar (maybe even with possibly the scaffold pole), is that right?
- Remove Hub nut
- Pull the hub closer to you whilst trying to push away the driveshaft? Can the the driveshaft "pop" out of the transmission would it?
- Support the hub so as not to damage the brake (flexi) pipes.
- Hopefully that will have given me enough clearance to use the Flexible Gaitor Kit.

How does this sound?

Thanks to everyone who has advised me, for giving me the confidence to do this much.

mikey72

BigDee2 wrote: »

I was under the car today check out what is involved with the repairs and have taken some photos which are here (sorry they are not in order but the titles will help):

http://s787.photobucket.com/albums/yy153/BigDee101/Toyota%20Carina%20E/


REAR STRUT (photos 1,2,3,4,10,11):

- I've loosened the brake pipe bracket on strut.
- I've loosened the anti-roll bar link bolt.
- but the two bolts at the bottom of the strut are very tight. I guess this is where I'd need the Breaker Bar.
- when the two strut bolts are removed, does the strut fall straight down (assuming the upper 3 bolts are off) or will I end up prising it away from the hub with a crowbar? my only concern is that I don't want to damage the brake pipe which looks like it's in the way.
- I think I'll be able to replace the strut with a a new shocky. I'm feeling more confident about changing it rather than buy the full 2nd hand one from ebay, which I mentioned earlier.
- can you get rubber shock absorber covers as the existing one is has perished (within the coil spring)? are they necessary?


FRONT HUB (photos 5,6,7,8,9):

Do I have to do the following (as Haynes has instructions to remove the complete driveshaft, which we are not doing):

- Slacken Hub nut whilst the wheel is on the ground or later get someone to depress the brake (when wheel is off)?
- Remove the Track Rod End using Ball Joint Separator (??) Do I have to replace the split pin in the bolt?
- Remove the Ball Joint at the bottom by loosening the bolt and then a crowbar and jumping down on it?
- please clarify the two above steps.
- Do I have to replace the split pin in the bolts?
- Loosen the two strut bolts (I have managed to loosen the upper one already).
- The lower one will need the Breaker Bar (maybe even with possibly the scaffold pole), is that right?
- Remove Hub nut
- Pull the hub closer to you whilst trying to push away the driveshaft? Can the the driveshaft "pop" out of the transmission would it?
- Support the hub so as not to damage the brake (flexi) pipes.
- Hopefully that will have given me enough clearance to use the Flexible Gaitor Kit.

How does this sound?

Thanks to everyone who has advised me, for giving me the confidence to do this much.

I doubt it will fall off without some persuasion, but you never know.
I always slacken the hub nut off first, possibly with the brakes on for that torque.
I replace split pins, but only as I have a big bag full. If they're ok you can usually reuse then.
The last bottom ball joint I split, I actually used a long piece of wood, but anything that does the job is fine. Scaffolding bar maybe. Some come off easily, some don't.

Yes the driveshaft can pull out. I roped my last one in, (so it didn't pull out, and so it doesn't drop when the shaft comes out of the hub) then tapped it gently back through the hub, while pulling the hub towards me. (with the hub nut on loosely, so as not to damage the thread, and so it doesn't come all the way out when you're not ready)
I took the caliper off, and tied it back out of the way, but only as I was changing the pads too.
Tie it up so it doesn't drop, or swing too far back or forwards.

BigDee2

What do you mean by "roped my last one in"?
Is this a method to keep the driveshaft attached to the transmission?

So is the ball joint splitter used on the the track rod end?
And for the Ball Joint removal, I'd use a pole/log piece of wood?

Cheers.

mikey72

Yes, basically tied a rope round the driveshaft so it doesn't drop when the hub comes off, and tied back so it won't pull out of the gearbox.
I found it easier to use a piece of wood to push the wishbone down on mine, than use the ball joint splitter. There's no right or wrong way, just whatever is easier on the car you're working on. As you have mentioned, a crowbar may be good on yours.

Flying-High_2

Rope.... Tie wrap or string will do the job.... Once the top bolts are undone the shock will take a pull before its out....

Slacken the Hub nut with it on the ground.... Split pins reuse if out in one piece.

Bottom 2 strut bolts you should be OK with a breaker and a spanner jammed against something...

Ball Joints elcheapo splitter is your best bet... you dont need nothing fancy... It'll save you butchering anything..

Decent tools wont break either..

asbokid

BigDee2 wrote: »

I was under the car today check out what is involved with the repairs and have taken some photos which are here (sorry they are not in order but the titles will help):

http://s787.photobucket.com/albums/yy153/BigDee101/Toyota%20Carina%20E/


REAR STRUT (photos 1,2,3,4,10,11):

- I've loosened the brake pipe bracket on strut.
- I've loosened the anti-roll bar link bolt.
- but the two bolts at the bottom of the strut are very tight. I guess this is where I'd need the Breaker Bar.
- when the two strut bolts are removed, does the strut fall straight down (assuming the upper 3 bolts are off) or will I end up prising it away from the hub with a crowbar?

Undo the top three bolts on the strut first and then you can hold the strut as you tap out the lower two 17mm bolts.

As for undoing those lower strut fixing bolts, keep on giving them a good soaking with penetrating oil. Use a good quality wire brush to remove the corrosion on the bolt heads and the nuts and especially on the exposed thread.

Give the bolt ends a sharp tap with a hammer to break any corrosion bond. Put a socket or a spanner on each end of the bolt, and work them simultaneously. Be patient. Repeatedly re-oil, tap with the hammer, try again with the socket. Take your time. It's surprisingly easy to snap those bolts if you're too heavy handed. Remember those bolts possibly haven't been touched for 17 years.

my only concern is that I don't want to damage the brake pipe which looks like it's in the way

You should be okay, but if you're particularly worried maybe throw something protective over the pipe.

- I think I'll be able to replace the strut with a a new shocky. I'm feeling more confident about changing it rather than buy the full 2nd hand one from ebay, which I mentioned earlier.
- can you get rubber shock absorber covers as the existing one is has perished (within the coil spring)? are they necessary?

They act as a sort of last resort bump stop if the suspension bottoms out. I think I saw that buypartsby.co.uk sell them. There might be universal ones. Doubt it's an MOT failure though.

FRONT HUB (photos 5,6,7,8,9):

Do I have to do the following (as Haynes has instructions to remove the complete driveshaft, which we are not doing):

- Slacken Hub nut whilst the wheel is on the ground or later get someone to depress the brake (when wheel is off)?

Yes, you've got to do that. Undo the driveshaft nut while the roadwheel is still on the ground. If you can't undo that nut, there's no point going any further!

- Remove the Track Rod End using Ball Joint Separator (??) Do I have to replace the split pin in the bolt?

Yes you have to remove the track rod end from the hub. This gains you the space needed to turn the hub enough to pull out the driveshaft.

Do you mean do you have to replace the pin with a new one? Since they are only 5p, you should do. The pins often break when they are being bent straight during removal. If you get a real stinker, it snaps off in the track rod end, requiring it to be tapped out or even drilled out. All part of the fun!

With the pin removed - and the nut undone and removed, you gently ease the separator under the joint, taking great care not to damage the rubber, and then bring the necessary pressure on the separator, either using a socket or a hammer, depending on its type.

- Remove the Ball Joint at the bottom by loosening the bolt and then a crowbar and jumping down on it?

You might not have to take the hub off the lower ball joint. That depends on whether the driveshaft will squeeze out while the hub is still sitting on the lower ball joint.

- please clarify the two above steps.

- Do I have to replace the split pin in the bolts?

Yes, definitely replace both split pins (on the TRE and on the LBJ). It's doubtless an MOT failure if either pin is missing.

- Loosen the two strut bolts (I have managed to loosen the upper one already).
- The lower one will need the Breaker Bar (maybe even with possibly the scaffold pole), is that right?

You should get both bolts out without needing a breaker bar. A nice long heavy spanner on either end (one on the nut and one on the bolt head), loads of oil (keep the oil off the brakes..), wire brush, tap with the hammer.. the bolt will move eventually.

- Remove Hub nut
- Pull the hub closer to you whilst trying to push away the driveshaft? Can the the driveshaft "pop" out of the transmission would it?

Yeah, not a good idea to pull the driveshaft out of the gearbox. It will flood out gearbox oil. Depending on the car, it's also possible that gears can drop in the gearbox while the driveshaft is out. Never known it, but it can happen.

Mikey has given you good advice.. Undo the driveshaft nut so that it sits proud of the driveshaft thread. Sharply tap the nut with a hammer until the driveshaft is freed from the hub.

- Support the hub so as not to damage the brake (flexi) pipes.
- Hopefully that will have given me enough clearance to use the Flexible Gaitor Kit.

How does this sound?

Sounds fine.

Thanks to everyone who has advised me, for giving me the confidence to do this much.

Hope you're going to keep us updated on the success!

BigDee2

Thanks to all for the advice.

Torque wrench...can't see to locate one on the internet that will do 226Nm for the hub nut (apart from the £80 Halfords one). Any ideas?
The max is 210Nm from the Screwfix one that was recommended in an earlier post. This would have been ideal.

Cheers.