MOT failure- what to do next?

Incyder

My old volvo just failed on one thing, nearside outer cv gaitor. A good local mechanic did the job for £37 inc part and labour.
re test was £ 24

asbokid

Incyder wrote: »

My old volvo just failed on one thing, nearside outer cv gaitor. A good local mechanic did the job for £37 inc part and labour.

That's the 'right' price, and replacing a CV boot is the more complex of the two jobs that the OP needs doing on his Toyota.

Changing a rear shock absorber is very simple. I don't know that model of car, but when I've done it, the most involved part of the job is popping off the plastic panelling to get to the top of the strut. But once that's done, being a rear shock absorber, it's plain sailing.

£80 cash is a reasonable price for both jobs, including parts.

mikey72

It's a good price for the strut.

Can't argue with that.

(unless it's just the insert, but then again, it doesn't say it is)

jase1

One thing I would say though is that I'd have thought it would be a good idea to replace the shocks in pairs.

BigDee2

Hi and thanks to you all for your feedback and advice because I feel more confident that I might be able to have a go at both jobs. Still undecided though.

I can't believe that car parts can be bought at a "reasonable" price.

But before I commit myself to doing any jobs myself, I have some queries:

CV Gaiter

- If i use the gaiter that mikey72 suggested (stretchy one) that would be better (not the split type).
- Thanks mikey72 for giving steps to follow to dismantle parts. Anything else to add?
- What tools do I need to buy? (I don't mind buying tools)


Shock absorber

Rather than replace just the shock absorber by dismantling the assembly inc spring, I saw this on item on ebay as a full 'used' unit:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Toyota-Carina-E-92-97-NSR-complete-shock-absorber-/270644653269?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f03adacd5

Would this item make the job easier?
I assume it would still pass MOT with a good 2nd hand part.

OR

- Do you think it's better to stick with a new shocky?
- What tools would I need to buy?
- What steps do I need to follow to dismantle the parts?


I'm hoping to take wheels off to get an idea what would be involved.

I wish we had someone who'd charge under a tenner/hr for the labour. That's a bargain!


If there are any links on the internet that will show/guide me through this work, that'd be great.

Thanks also to asbokid for the advice and putting the costs together.

Cheers.


PS. Here's an exact description why the car failed the MOT:

001 Nearside rear shock absorber has a serious fluid leak [2.7.3]
002 Offside front constant velocity joint gaiter split [2.5.C1a]

mikey72

ball joint splitter
torque wrench
(although the last one I did was 200 Nm on the hub nut, so more a scaffolding pole and a breaker bar)
safe way to work under the car, axle stands are always good, although I have used a couple of wheels before.
Haynes manual

Easier to change the full unit, so long as it's ok. Check it's the right one for the car, the carina lists a lot of different variants.

I don't like the split boots, even a tiny amount of grease and they don't stick well.

One of the stretchy boots I've put on has done about 20K miles now, I wouldn't use any other now, they're so easy, and the cone will last me.

(It helps to read the instructions though, but to be honest, if you don't warm them up first they still go on with a good push )

asbokid

BigDee2 wrote: »

CV Gaiter

- If i use the gaiter that mikey72 suggested (stretchy one) that would be better (not the split type).

- Thanks mikey72 for giving steps to follow to dismantle parts. Anything else to add?
- What tools do I need to buy? (I don't mind buying tools

I would always use the normal type of CV boot.

Using a split type of CV boot is not a "pro" job. Few garages would use one. All it saves is the small amount of time and effort needed to pull the driveshaft out of the hub.

Unless you master the art of gluing a split CV boot correctly the very first time, then it won't last. Dirt will enter the failed glue seam. Over time, the grit will wear the bearings of the joint and this will cause the CV joint to fail, and then you'll have a more expensive job to deal with.

Shock absorber
Rather than replace just the shock absorber by dismantling the assembly inc spring, I saw this on item on ebay as a full 'used' unit:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Toyota-Carina-E-92-97-NSR-complete-shock-absorber-/270644653269?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f03adacd5

Would this item make the job easier?
I assume it would still pass MOT with a good 2nd hand part.

It's loads easier to fit a complete strut. It avoids the job of dismantling your old strut. That normally involves compressing the coil spring with a special tool, undoing the strut hat, and refitting the spring to your replacement shock absorber.

You can buy cheapo coil spring compressors for £10 a pair, but it's still not a nice DIY job. Garages use hydraulic coil spring compressors, but they are £100+.

With the best of intentions, a seller's idea of "good condition" for a used suspension strut is subjective, and often not shared by the buyer!

OR

- Do you think it's better to stick with a new shocky?
- What tools would I need to buy?
- What steps do I need to follow to dismantle the parts?

Personally, I would buy two new shocks, one for each side. It's always better practice to replace them in axle pairs. It's your car though and it's not worth a fortune, and this is moneysavingexpert.com!

It depends on what you use to measure which method is "better". Better in terms of price, or job satisfaction?

Maybe replace just the shock on the bad side first, get it through the MOT and see how it drives..

I'm hoping to take wheels off to get an idea what would be involved.

I wish we had someone who'd charge under a tenner/hr for the labour. That's a bargain!

£9 an hour is what a "respectable" local garage is paying their Polish mechanics. The price the customer is paying the garage stays at £60 an hour.

If there are any links on the internet that will show/guide me through this work, that'd be great.

Try and find a s/hand Haynes or Chiltons manual for that car. If you're lucky, sometimes you can find a CD of the manufacturer's workshop manual for the car.

However, replacing a CV boot and a rear shock are basically the same jobs on all FWD vehicles.

PS. Here's an exact description why the car failed the MOT:

001 Nearside rear shock absorber has a serious fluid leak [2.7.3]
002 Offside front constant velocity joint gaiter split [2.5.C1a]

One thought.. before you buy a CV boot, visually check that 002 does relate to the outer CV joint nearest the offside wheel. It's not very likely but it could relate to the gaiter on the innermost end of the driveshaft.

ElkyElky

asbokid wrote: »

£9 an hour is what a "respectable" local garage is paying their Polish mechanics. The price the customer is paying the garage stays at £60 an hour.

£9 an hour is way too generous for them.

BigDee2

Yes, the 002 does relate to the outer CV joint nearest the offside wheel.
When I was at the MOT, the tester was kind enough to show it to me.
He also showed me the leaking shock.

OK, split boots are not an option now.

I think I'll invest in a decent torque wrench (always wanted one).
The Halfords ones are expensive but I think it's meant to be very good quality.

How can I check the variant of my car? I had a look at the V5C document and could not tell what to look for.

For the complete strut, what should I ask the seller on ebay before purchase to ensure it's the right one?
Yes, it's difficult to say what the seller's meaning of "good condition" is.
I guess as long as it's not leaking, it should be OK.
So no specialist tools needed here?
When I asked the MOT tester if I have to replace both shocks (for the same reason mentioned already), he said no, just replace the damaged one only. I'd probably be OK with that.

Thanks very much.

mikey72

I've got this one

http://www.screwfix.com/p/reversible-torque-wrench/18289

it seems fine so far.