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Basic Network questions with sad diagram
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I assume the BT socket leads to the modem router which leads to the switch and then spreads out all over the house? There don't seem to be loads of modem routers with gigabit capability or am I just not looking properly? If I had two switches, then would I need a router with more than one gigabit connection on it?
Any specific hardware recommendations welcome too. (ADSL)
It's a great idea. I like it...My suggestion to get the most speed out the adsl is to make sure you have the bt broadband accelerator on the master phone socket and plug the router directly into that i.e don't have a phone cable run into your cabinent under the stairs. I'd run ethernet from the lounge where the router would be. Somehow it makes it go quicker. Having my bt homehub upstairs slowed it down by 1 mb/sec. So now it's downstairs and i've run an ethernet cable upstairs. Every mb counts when I only have 4mb internet.:footie:Regular savers earn 6% interest (HSBC, First Direct, M&S)
Loans cost 2.9% per year (Nationwide) = FREE money.
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Thanks very much for all the replies and things to thing about. A few points to answer.....I think dual runs is a bit paranoid, unless you have mice constantly chewing on your electrics Its probably a waste of time, Id probably go for 2 switches one upstairs and one downstairs, with just a run connecting the switches, it will save at lot on cabling.
There arn't a lot of gigabit routers because they arn't really needed in a home enviroment, unless your shuffling gigabyte files around constantly or doing a lot of replciation (eg windows domain) its just not needed.
3 of the bedrooms will have a pc, an xbox or a ps3, and also Sky. My thoughts were that dual runs would also cut down on the amount of unplugging and plugging of patch cables if there was a double ethernet socket available?Wired is always best way to go - Even if you end up with a wireless router - you always have the fallback of wired incase you have a wireless problem.
The router supplied by BT may suffice for the wireless adapter - But how about a cisco switch? You may find a decent multiport device on ebay being sold by an ex Cisco networking academy student which could have 12 or more ethernet ports on it for a decent price. If they are running in a default configuration then you should be able to plug in all your rooms into the switch.
I would also recommend a patch panel in your cupboard which you would wire all your rooms to. This would make cable routing easier as each room would correspond to its own ethernet socket on the panel. and also make things easier with regards to how you wire up your switch / router setup........
.............something like that may be what you need for the switch. This plan would allow you to have more than one ethernet cable to each room if you require it - for example if you have two PC's or other equipment to plog in
I suspect I'm being very dense here but I'm not clear on why I might be better with a patch panel as well as a switch? I thought the switch took care of the multiple outlets needed? Isn't that like plugging an extension lead into an extension lead? (To go back to my electric socket analogy.)
I'm looking to do the best and most future proof job as possible so will go down whatever route I have to, I'm just not understanding at the minute?
The other thing is that we need to buy a new modem/router anyway, I mentioned earlier that the Belkin one we had, bit the dust and we're using a borrowed old Netgear at the moment which will have to be returned once we get our network sorted out.For most people, star-wiring 4/5 runs from a central point to every room in the house with Cat5e and Gig Ethernet is overkill by a long way.
You're probably right but I always feel happier over engineering rather than under iyswim. It's probably a failing, I know.
The switches alone will be £250 or more, and you are probably looking at several thousand pounds if you include installation and cable termination - for what purpose? Why would you need four Gig Ethernet outlets in any one room? What would use that much bandwidth in an ordinary house?
This house is more like individual bedsits for adults rather than a normal family home. Each room needs to be wired up accordingly to cater for all eventualities. Some of our equipment will be getting replaced in the not too distant future so we want to upgrade as much as we can.
I will be installing everything myself so cost for that can be disregarded.
A far more rational implementation would be a single Cat5e or Cat-6 socket in each room and a small switch in those rooms which need multiple outlets.
I didn't realise you could have a switch at the 'other end' and use it like a multiple adapter in the room itself. Something else to consider.
Thanks again everyone.Herman - MP for all!0 -
I suspect I'm being very dense here but I'm not clear on why I might be better with a patch panel as well as a switch? I thought the switch took care of the multiple outlets needed? Isn't that like plugging an extension lead into an extension lead? (To go back to my electric socket analogy.)Ubuntu is an ancient African word, meaning: 'I can't configure Debian'.0
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You need to terminate the cables coming into the core somehow, and they have to be able to plug into the switch with normal RJ45 plugs. You can leave the ends of cable runs hanging out of the wall, and then just crimp the ends onto them and plug them into the switch direct, but that isn't too good an idea, as the tabs can easily break, the cable could accidentally get pulled etc. With a patch panel, you make the cable off into it as with a normal socket, and then use short patch leads to run into the switch. More convenient, easier to see what's going on, as it's much easier to label a patch panel than the individual cable ends coming out of the wall.
Ah I understand now, thanks.
One quick query.....is there any issue with so many connections? When Sky is installed for example, the advice is always to have continuous runs and a straight connection to the box if possible, because if the cable is run to a wall plate and then cabled from the plate to the box, there's more of a risk of interference etc. Is ethernet like this too or is there no problem in having so many connections iyswim?Herman - MP for all!0 -
Which connection are you talking about to the sky box? The coax feed from the dish has to be high quality, otherwise you run into all sorts of trouble, as it's an analogue signal, so any interference will degrade the signal quality. With ethernet, it's a totally digital signal, so wall plates etc don't matter. CAT5e cable is certified for 90m runs with 10m patch at the ends.Ubuntu is an ancient African word, meaning: 'I can't configure Debian'.0
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Our Sky cable goes directly from dish to box deliberately so there were no wall plates or any other connections to interfere with signal.
I wasn't sure if ethernet had similar issues or not. Thanks for clearing that up. It's all a learning curve.Herman - MP for all!0 -
Another question please......the cupboard I'd intended using under the stairs to house the central gubbins, is also where the main electric meter is sited, so obviously there are many cables entering here.
Will this affect the ethernet? Should I get shielded cable instead of just UTP? Will it not make an difference and the UTP will be ok? Or should I think about resiting the modem/switch/panel etc elsewhere?Herman - MP for all!0 -
I don't think you need to worry. I've seen many professional office flood-wired installations where the UTP runs along the same route as the power distribution. Generally they keep several inches of separation on longer runs, but it's not critical for short lengths.
The twisted pair design is specifically intended to make shielding not (as) necessary.0 -
Ok, thanks. Will stick to the UTP.
Just been scouring the net for idea of prices etc. Is cable just cable...or is there differences in quality? I've seen branded stuff (Belkin for instance) and ordinary generic unbranded. Any difference in quality and use or is it just like chemist own vitamins v's Seven Seas for instance. (Sorry about all the analogies...it's how I get things straight in my head)
Also if I use a patch panel, am I then going to have to buy a rack or cabinet to house it, or is there an alternative method of fixing I don't know about?Herman - MP for all!0 -
The last lot I bought was from Screwfix - it was unbranded and appears to be fine.
The main difference is likely to be in the quality of plastics used - the named (more expensive) brands seem to be a bit more flexible and slightly less prone to kinking, so the handling qualities may make installation slightly easier.
The electrical characteristics are not likely to vary much from make to make as the actual cable design is tightly specified.
As mentioned in an earlier post, I chose not to use any rack-mount gear, because it takes up so much space - I used the modular wall sockets linked to above instead. But that's really only practical for 6 or 8 sockets, because you need an extra wall box for every 2 outlets.0
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