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DIY Stable Renovation: Need Your Advice and Ideas!
Comments
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What does your electricion say about the regs when you asked them?
I take it you're going to do the backfilling for this trench also?
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If you put a duct in the trench then you could use standard (/outdoor) CAT6 won't need the expensive armoured version. It would also mean you can have more than one cable, and if a cable has a conductor breakage you could pull a replacement through the duct, without having to dig another trench. Having part-dug one trench you've probably now got the idea what hard work it is, and something you ideally only do once.
As for the trench depth, ask the electrician. It is them who will be signing the work off, they need to be happy the regs have been complied with.
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If you put a duct in the trench then you could use standard (/outdoor) CAT6 won't need the expensive armoured version. It would also mean you can have more than one cable, and if a cable has a conductor breakage you could pull a replacement through the duct, without having to dig another trench.
Certainly put the CAT6 in a duct, but also pull a length of thin rope through at the same time. That will make life a lot easier when you need to pull another cable through (just remember to pull another length of rope through at the same time).
Any language construct that forces such insanity in this case should be abandoned without regrets. –
Erik Aronesty, 2014
Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.1 -
I talked to electrician he is OKish with ~400mm on grass area but mentioned gravel area need to be deeper. So Planning to do that way. Thanks very much.
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I am in the process of completing the internal plywood lining (walls + Ceiling), ready for painting. I have checked the recommended process/steps, but I am slightly confused about the correct order for applying the various layers.
AI tools suggest that the filler should be applied before the primer, which is the order I have been following in the plan above:
- Caulk joints – DONE
- Fill imperfections with skim filler
- Sand smooth
- Apply primer
- Apply white topcoat
However, when I checked the instructions for the products I am planning to buy, it appears that the filler may need to be applied after the primer so that it bonds properly to the plywood!
ie Plywood → sand → primer → filler → sand → spot-prime filler → topcoat
Considering the purpose of the work and the area of application described above, what would be the best approach? The products I am planning to buy are:
- Toupret Joint, Skim & Fill
- Leyland Trade Acrylic Primer Undercoat – White
Any other suitable proven products for this large area 3 rooms (9Mx5M area)
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TBH it probably doesn't matter much. Plywood sheets lining a wooden shed are going to move around. No matter how carefully you fill and paint over the joints between sheets it is only a matter of time before movement will open the joints up again. Make them look good now, but expect to have to redo them maybe a couple of times a year if you don't want to see cracks. You'll be incredibly fortunate if you get a perfect finish which lasts.
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