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DIY Stable Renovation: Need Your Advice and Ideas!

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Comments

  • Boohoo
    Boohoo Posts: 2,408 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper

    What does your electricion say about the regs when you asked them?

    I take it you're going to do the backfilling for this trench also?

  • Section62
    Section62 Posts: 11,735 Forumite
    10,000 Posts Fifth Anniversary Name Dropper

    If you put a duct in the trench then you could use standard (/outdoor) CAT6 won't need the expensive armoured version. It would also mean you can have more than one cable, and if a cable has a conductor breakage you could pull a replacement through the duct, without having to dig another trench. Having part-dug one trench you've probably now got the idea what hard work it is, and something you ideally only do once.

    As for the trench depth, ask the electrician. It is them who will be signing the work off, they need to be happy the regs have been complied with.

  • FreeBear
    FreeBear Posts: 18,857 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic

    If you put a duct in the trench then you could use standard (/outdoor) CAT6 won't need the expensive armoured version. It would also mean you can have more than one cable, and if a cable has a conductor breakage you could pull a replacement through the duct, without having to dig another trench.

    Certainly put the CAT6 in a duct, but also pull a length of thin rope through at the same time. That will make life a lot easier when you need to pull another cable through (just remember to pull another length of rope through at the same time).

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  • sujsuj
    sujsuj Posts: 873 Forumite
    Sixth Anniversary 500 Posts Name Dropper

    I talked to electrician he is OKish with ~400mm on grass area but mentioned gravel area need to be deeper. So Planning to do that way. Thanks very much.

  • sujsuj
    sujsuj Posts: 873 Forumite
    Sixth Anniversary 500 Posts Name Dropper
    edited 25 September at 5:57PM

    I am in the process of completing the internal plywood lining (walls + Ceiling), ready for painting. I have checked the recommended process/steps, but I am slightly confused about the correct order for applying the various layers.

    AI tools suggest that the filler should be applied before the primer, which is the order I have been following in the plan above:

    1. Caulk joints – DONE
    2. Fill imperfections with skim filler
    3. Sand smooth
    4. Apply primer
    5. Apply white topcoat

    However, when I checked the instructions for the products I am planning to buy, it appears that the filler may need to be applied after the primer so that it bonds properly to the plywood!

    ie Plywood → sand → primer → filler → sand → spot-prime filler → topcoat

    Considering the purpose of the work and the area of application described above, what would be the best approach? The products I am planning to buy are:

    • Toupret Joint, Skim & Fill
    • Leyland Trade Acrylic Primer Undercoat – White

    Any other suitable proven products for this large area 3 rooms (9Mx5M area)

  • Section62
    Section62 Posts: 11,735 Forumite
    10,000 Posts Fifth Anniversary Name Dropper

    TBH it probably doesn't matter much. Plywood sheets lining a wooden shed are going to move around. No matter how carefully you fill and paint over the joints between sheets it is only a matter of time before movement will open the joints up again. Make them look good now, but expect to have to redo them maybe a couple of times a year if you don't want to see cracks. You'll be incredibly fortunate if you get a perfect finish which lasts.

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