Kitchen Units Supp+Install-Retain Worktop+Sink.

Qyburn

The new controller will do similar but you'll be able to set it to run only the last couple of hours of your off peak period, rather than running for all 7 hours.

Dandytf

Qyburn said:

The new controller will do similar but you'll be able to set it to run only the last couple of hours of your off peak period, rather than running for all 7 hours.down.

Excellent, seems I'll have electrician assigned from today's 'assessor' arranged via b/q.
This could mean costs separate, though kitchen de install re install continues via b/q.
Electrical work multi sockets potential board that supports home electric heaters and my preferred smart water controller can be handled via new electrician to keep costs affordable.
And skimming kitchen ceilings is very decent quote 200 approx per room starting with kitchen and I'll search for Smart Spot lights.
Those Lower from 2hrs overnight water heating, not sure how many hours provides what I use for bathroom/kitchen though I'de start from 2-3 hrs later times of Low rate, 5-7 a.m. approx.
I do enjoy DQ heater and Alta's needing only limited hours rather than 7 or more hours.
Still need b/q re visit to 'order' kitchen, todays installer working from Sept dates quite fast.

thanks

Dandytf

Kitchen agreed via final b/q visit.
Enjoying Creation App to play with Finance options.
Found 48mths 0% suitable, though will be easier from 2025, careful through this year.
Only blip is I didn't need to withdraw 1k from isa, No Deposit required.
I'll return 95% and have enough to settle separate living room laminate via Carpetright.
I'll discuss Water Heater controller options with Kitchen Installer as side job and need to choose Smart Spots x3.

FreeBear

Qyburn said:

Dandytf said:

Qyburn said:

They're standard in terms of height, width and fixing screws. But some protrude more at the back, particularly the so called "flat plate" style. If by "backplate" you mean the mounting box, I'd fit as deep as possible. 

It is the backkplate recommended 30mm yet the Double Socket info states 25mm.

Almost certainly that 25mm is the minimum or recommended minimum. I can't imagine why a socket would have a maximum mounting box depth.

A deeper box make cable management and routing easier. In addition you never know whether you might need to accommodate terminals in there at some point in the future, or run a spur meaning there are now three set of conductors to fit in.

I've settled on 30mm back boxes for everything (sockets and light switches), and a 47mm for the cooker switch. Whilst 25mm back boxes are OK for standard sockets/switches, the extra room is welcome should smart switches/sockets be fitted. Sockets with built in USB ports also benefit from the extra depth.

Dandytf

Hopefully take Delivery of Kitchen units excluding Worktop (arriving seperatley) this week.
Meanwhile can mser's advise if one bedroom wall is Wallpapered or something else (since wardrobe was removed Jan '24)
I could ask kitchen Fitter to Skim over wall if that's the solution.
3 other walls are Flat (kind of Concrete)
2 photo's 1st the 'printed' effect 2nd Non patterned.
It's the patterned wall which doesn't seem to be wallpaper?

FreeBear

Dandytf said: Meanwhile can mser's advise if one bedroom wall is Wallpapered or something else (since wardrobe was removed Jan '24)
I could ask kitchen Fitter to Skim over wall if that's the solution.
3 other walls are Flat (kind of Concrete)
2 photo's 1st the 'printed' effect 2nd Non patterned.
It's the patterned wall which doesn't seem to be wallpaper?

Difficult to say with any certainty if these two walls are papered (images are not very clear) - I suspect they are..

Poke a sharp object in to a small area and try and lift the top layer off. If it is paper, it needs removing before the wall is skimmed. If it is a textured finish (artex ?), it may be possible to plaster over the top after a suitable primer has been applied. The plasterer will be able to advise on the best course of action.

Dandytf

@Qyburn

My water is still heating up overnight-Red Led is On.
I'm going to Edit this reply and confirm if Water Switches Off as per Eco7 Low-High rate switchover via Smart  07:30 IHD 60 mins switchover timer.
15 mins delay in Water light going off i.e. 08:45 rather than IHD rate switch 0830.
Thas fine I can either ask builder or source Electrician to order nice modern Immersion Box.

p.s. What Controller Set's GMT/BST Switchover, I had always referred to Region eco7 times and Smart IHD.

Qyburn

Dandytf said:

@Qyburn

My water is still heating up overnight-Red Led is On.

Are you using that controller you linked to earlier, or is that water heater still switched by the meter, so running for all the off peak time?

Not clear what you're asking about GMT/BST.

Dandytf

Qyburn said:

The new controller will do similar but you'll be able to set it to run only the last couple of hours of your off peak period, rather than running for all 7 hours.

Which Controller was referred to from the above reply.
Meanwhile oroginal water Box is in use, heats water overnight only takes 15 mins past eco 7 morning rate switch for led to switch off.
This doesn't use Peak/Day rate unless I use 'Boost Timer' which I don't.
Remember even though It auto switches on each night for eco7 start times, the Boiler is only heats up if required. 
Thanks it means I'm never without hot water though poor bathroom pressure not many Baths filled.

Qyburn

Dandytf said:

Which Controller was referred to from the above reply.

The one discussed earlier. 

Dandytf said:

Dandytf said:

Is this correct replacement...

• Secure E7+ Smart Capable Immersion Heater Timer Controller | DIY at B&Q

https://www.electricalsonline.co.uk/product-page/e7plus

Technical info and manuals here ..

https://www.securemeters.com/uk/product/electric-water-heating-controls/e7/