Unusually high gas usage of 43000kwh per year

Mobtr

Why don’t you take a few readings during the day & especially before you go to bed & when you wake up to see exactly what has been used overnight. Might give you a better indication 

markin

Depending on age of the aga i think having that off will knock off 2000 to 10,000 kwh.

40,000kwh is only 160kwh per sqm a year so would be EPC D or low E range?

I don't really think the meter is faulty, lower the hot water temp and flow temp, and take daily readings for a week.

macman

17C is living areas is not 'typical': the average is in the range 18C-21C. I use 19C, with the bedrooms much cooler at about 16C
Anecdotally, each 1C increase on the room 'stat adds 10% to your heating usage.
Meter faults are very rare, much rarer than people would like to believe, as they don't generally notice increased usage, but only increased bills.

macman

Keep_pedalling said:

macman said:

If you want a meter test, then the replacement will be a smart meter: dumb meters are no longer available from any supplier..

I know a few electricity meters are certified for 40 years but I don’t any gas ones are, so it is highly unlikely that they would test the existing meter just change it out for a smart meter.

Unless they test it, they won't know whether the OP has been overbilled or not. It has to be swapped out anyway to test it, so the replacement will be a smart meter.

ispookie666

OP, hopefully, you don't have a gas fire.  
Why should the timing of the heating matter much - unless the heat loss is so significant (1 presume only one tank) and there is no hot water recirculation?  

merchcon55

Let’s assume you have a 35kwh boiler. With a cubic ft meter, IF the boiler were actually firing for the full hour, your meter should move 1.1 units (so 7654.3 to 7655.4 as example).

Roughly, to convert imperial units to KWH multiply by 32.1, so 1.1 x 32.1 = 35.3 kWh, which is what a 35kwh output boiler would us IF firing for the full hour.

This should allow you to determine if your meter is working properly.

After doing the above, turn off the boiler completely. Take a meter reading and take one say 30 minutes later. Your meter should not have moved (you can even look at the dial, note the position - say 3 o’clock - again this should not move at all)

if the meter does move, then either some hidden gas usage or a gas leak.

Good Luck

giles007

theoretica said:

You haven't, I think, clarified how you use the house - how much you are in and how much out - it is of course a waste to heat places to a comfortable temperature when you are not likely to be in them.  Are you all out at school/work, someone needing one room of an office warm, or actually using much of the house?  My daytime setting is indeed something I think uncomfortably cold if I am sitting working at home and not moving - and if I am cold I ask the heating to boost, which may happen once or twice a week.  Result is I am warm enough if home, and not heating the place when out, so saving on several days heating a week - maybe 10-15%?

Our heating set up is as follows

Heating and Schedules
We have a couple of UFH zones downstairs and they are set to 21 degrees from 6am to 11pm, then they are set to 17 degrees overnight
The rest of the house is controlled by 1 thermostat which is set to
20 degrees 6am to 9am
16 degrees 9am to 3pm
20 degrees 3pm to 11pm
16 degrees 11pm to 6am

so its "off" during the main part of the day when its only me at home working from home as the temperature doesnt drop below 16 degrees that often to make the daytime schedule kick in

UFH is on at a constant 40 degrees water temperature, the thermostats are set at 20 degrees for the underfloor heated rooms - but we have been told that the UFH is very efficient

theoretica

giles007 said:

UFH is on at a constant 40 degrees water temperature, the thermostats are set at 20 degrees for the underfloor heated rooms - but we have been told that the UFH is very efficient

What do you think 'efficient' means in practice in this context?

Slinky

Reading all this, I'm glad I resisted the builder's attempts to convince me to install UFH in our new garden room.

Hope you get to the bottom of it OP

jennifernil

OP.......do you only have the one thermostat controlling the temperature to the rooms heated by radiators, and one for all the underfloor heated areas?

If so, for the radiator heating, how do you control the temperature in individual rooms?

If it is only you there most of the day, you really only need to maintain a higher temperature in the room you work in.     And bedrooms and most bathrooms do not need heated while nobody is using them, how do you achieve  this?

We previously controlled our heating by a time clock and TRVs on all but one radiator, a small one in the hall.     

Our en suite, which was not used other than first thing in the morning and last thing at night, had a TRV that could have both times and temperatures set just for that room.

Living rooms and kitchen TRVs were on 3.5 to 4,  bedrooms on 1 at the most, bathrooms on 3.5, hallways on 2 to 2.5  (all out of a possible max of 5)

Now we have a system where each room has a smart TRV or wireless thermostat which can be set to the different times and temperatures we require, with each one able to call for heat when it needs it, and HW is timed as before.   This gives a very precise control of the heating in every room as each has its own time and temperature schedule.

The schedule can be set differently on  different days of the week if required, and the temperature in each room can easily be boosted or reduced.