Alcove Units – Best Solution?

paperclap

Gonna set it back! 

With the top, still undecided as to whether to make it flush (I know it's a no-no here), or, set back a smidge.

My thoughts are the top 12mm set back (seems to be the ballpark figure from what I've seen on other units), and the unit 24mm set back (to make it seem like I've done it on purpose!) 

ThisIsWeird

Phew! A decision! Ish

I think these figures should work. I think the 10-12mm set back for the top is decisive, and will look 'right', tho' you could possibly get away with less if you wanted, even just 6mm as it's only a relatively thin part, 38mm thickish?, that will be sitting relative to the chimney breast face.

And then the units set back whatever you deem is the correct overhang for the top relative to the unit doors. Again, what looks 'right' could be less than you think - 6mm to 10mm.

So rather than 'deciding' on a figure, I'd have a play. It could be your unit ends up only 20mm back or even less. I think that could be enough. 

Could you even build the frame and position a door-thickness panel on it, and have a play? What top have you decided on? Have you been keeping an eye out on Fb?! I've seen plenty solid oak tops going for next to now't down here since this thread began

paperclap

Yeah, perhaps I could get away with less!

But yeah, it would be good to have a relatively good idea as to what size setbacks (within a few millimetres), as that has a knock-on effect to how I build the base / plinth below, and how far I set that back.

Guilty, I've not been keeping an eye out for tops! But, you've seen tops big enough for my mammoth units? 

From an aesthetic point of view for the tops, looking for something that's light. Wonder if oak may be too dark / greyish. Going for that Scandi look 

Ben1989

Make sure you create a QR code and stick it inside the unit with a link to this thread so future owners can see how much thought went into them!

paperclap

Ben1989 said:

Make sure you create a QR code and stick it inside the unit with a link to this thread so future owners can see how much thought went into them!

Made my day! 

ThisIsWeird

paperclap said:

Yeah, perhaps I could get away with less!

But yeah, it would be good to have a relatively good idea as to what size setbacks (within a few millimetres), as that has a knock-on effect to how I build the base / plinth below, and how far I set that back.

Guilty, I've not been keeping an eye out for tops! But, you've seen tops big enough for my mammoth units? 

From an aesthetic point of view for the tops, looking for something that's light. Wonder if oak may be too dark / greyish. Going for that Scandi look 

Fair point - I can't recall seeing enough identical top to do both sides...

I think oak should be fine, tho'. Stripped, it's a light wood, and a water-based lacquer should keep it light. But, yes, beech and others tend to be lighter still.

Oak does have a nice grain, tho'...

travis-powers

Personally for me the tile isn’t really an issue, I’d be happy with that.
I feel that the top should protrude the chimney Breast, flush would never look right, the reason we have shadow gaps and protruding tops is to hide the irregularities of buildings and it’s become the norm.
As for the top in my opinion beech is very boring I personally would go for oak either thin worktop or oak faced mdf with iron on edge strip however if you go for the mdf option I would look at an ash finish as it’s next level!

ThisIsWeird

I don't think PC is considering having the w'top flush - it's always going to be stepped one way or t'other. It'll only need a tiny step, tho', as it's a small contact area.

I agree - beech can be boring

paperclap

Thanks all!

Though, if the units are stepped back, and the worktop is proud... would that odd? As then the different between the unit and worktop would be a fair bit!

ThisIsWeird

Decide on the overhang for the worktop first, taking into account the doors, of course. I guess your best source for the judgement of this could be your kitchen units? Or, more photos of the types of units you want.

Then I'd - personally - keep the w'top stepped back from the breast by only 6-10mm, and go from there.