Framing in/around IKEA PAX wardrobe

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  • greensalad
    greensalad Posts: 2,530 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    Thought I'd update on this weekend's progress so far. Two of 4 wardrobes are in.



    Timber was purchased for the framing



    A car media screen was smashed when breaking too hard with the aforementioned timber poking through the seats



    So some ups and downs to say the least! 

    Tomorrow going to secure the current wardrobe to the wall, get the legs adjusted so they are all cosy and tight. Then build the two 75cm wardrobe which will flank the sides, and work out sticking this timber up for the verticals.

    Also at OH's suggestion, instead of doing two "train track" style supports for the upper I am going to instead do smaller uprights along with a top stuck to the wardrobe, if that makes sense. Easier to cut and don't have to battle gravity getting timber stuck to the ceiling.

    My job tonight is to redo the SketchUp drawing.

    Oh and finally, I had misremembered the reason for the 35cm depth wardrobe. It was not in fact "almost" close enough for a 58cm but not enough, it was very much a shallow gap, 35cm will fit perfectly whilst also giving the blinds just enough room to hang. 


  • greensalad
    greensalad Posts: 2,530 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    Drawn up a new design from which to make my cutting list (though actual plan is to measure and cut as we go, just want a rough idea)



    Will also make it much easier to cut as all the little uprights are the same length. Perhaps overkill clustering three together on the corners but it means I can attach them all to each other and hopefully that will make it nice and strong to connect them.



    Final drawing with support frame, plasterboard, trim, plinth covers and "skirting" (going to use the plinth cover thickness as my skirting elsewhere would be too thick).


  • Doozergirl
    Doozergirl Posts: 34,058 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    Oh.  Sorry about the media screen, that's painful! 


    Agreed that the uprights are more sensible and will use less wood! 
    Everything that is supposed to be in heaven is already here on earth.
  • Very thorough, GS. It's amazing how the amount of timber adds up, isn't it?!

    Sorry about your screen :-(
  • GDB2222
    GDB2222 Posts: 25,969 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Photogenic Name Dropper
    Do you want coving?
    No reliance should be placed on the above! Absolutely none, do you hear?
  • Oh.  Sorry about the media screen, that's painful! 


    Agreed that the uprights are more sensible and will use less wood! 
    Yeah, I haven’t worked out the cutting list completely yet but I might be able to return a few lengths.
  • Very thorough, GS. It's amazing how the amount of timber adds up, isn't it?!

    Sorry about your screen :-(
    More expensive than I expected but not too bad. I paid £120 for the support timber, plasterboard, trim and a small sheet of 18mm MDF and 6mm MDF. Probably got another £30 to spend on plasterboard bits and then need to figure out paint for the trim. I already have primer. I know I could paint match to IKEA at the Valspar counter but the mixed wood paint is I think £27. I could try and get a Dulux colour match but I think by the time I’ve bought testers I may as well just have spent that money on the Valspar. Google is no help, plenty of people talking about paint match but it’s all American brands. Any suggestions welcome. I’d like it to match properly else what’s the point of going to all this effort.
  • GDB2222 said:
    Do you want coving?
    Was thinking just that tonight. No coving anywhere in the house upstairs so it won’t look out of place without, but will I get a nice finish on that edge with just caulk? Going to give caulk (or maybe gap filler) a go first and if it looks pants might get some micro coving.
  • Bendy_House
    Bendy_House Posts: 4,756 Forumite
    1,000 Posts Second Anniversary Name Dropper
    edited 25 September 2022 at 7:29AM
    Filler and/or caulk should do. The former can be sanded, the latter not, so get it right first time! Caulks are water-based (I'm guessing all?), So a wetted tool should get it to what you want. It skins quickly, tho'.

    Caulk has some flexibility, so less likely to 'hairline' along the ceiling/wall or unit joins. PVAing the p'board to the walls/ceilings should help there, and these are the more important ones.
  • You wish to match the surround to the PAX and not the other walls?
    If you go to a proper painter shop - Dulux, Johnson's, etc, they'll have swatches of more variations of white that you can stir a stick at. Mind you, they'll all be made-up in the shop, so a bit more than off-the-shelf I guess.

    Surely it's emulsion paint you are after, and not for wood? (Tho' emulsion will go on there too).
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