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Interior of outbuilding - options?
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Nice, I'll give that a look. I'm guessing it's better than the retail version: https://www.homebase.co.uk/dulux-weathershield-smooth-masonry-paint-pure-brilliant-white-7.5l/12891413.html same story as usual trade right, better opacity and just nicer to use?0
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I wish you luck. We had one of these, it was huge - 14m wide. It was great while the kids were teenagers - a couple of old sofas, a fridge for beers, a table tennis table. It was always cold and dusty, other than mid Summer when it was an oven.
The maintenance was excessive. Every few years the felt roof needed attention, the ceiling boards sagged and fell off at random times. The wood outside would need painting. The floor would crack. Eventually, especially as the kids got older and used it less, we paid someone to remove it. We now have a concrete base in 4 sections that we don't know what to do with.I'm a Forum Ambassador on the housing, mortgages & student money saving boards. I volunteer to help get your forum questions answered and keep the forum running smoothly. Forum Ambassadors are not moderators and don't read every post. If you spot an illegal or inappropriate post then please report it to forumteam@moneysavingexpert.com (it's not part of my role to deal with this). Any views are mine and not the official line of MoneySavingExpert.com.0 -
Tbh, provided your walls are not letting through any damp from the outside, then standard emulsion paint will actually do. Perhaps go vinyl silk for extra durability?
Yes, for rescrewing the p'board, you MUST remove all 'sag' first. Prop it gently back up until it's tight against the joists, then screw.0 -
OSB would be an ideal material for the ceiling, right enough - strong, durable, not saggy... BUT it won't LOOK so good.0
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Bendy_House said:OSB would be an ideal material for the ceiling, right enough - strong, durable, not saggy... BUT it won't LOOK so good.1
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Bendy_House said:Tbh, provided your walls are not letting through any damp from the outside, then standard emulsion paint will actually do. Perhaps go vinyl silk for extra durability?
Yes, for rescrewing the p'board, you MUST remove all 'sag' first. Prop it gently back up until it's tight against the joists, then screw.
Propping - gotcha. My poor man's version might be a chair and wide broom if it reaches! Ironically the trampoline bits I got rid (yesterday!) of and some old skirting would have done the trick!1 -
Bendy_House said: OSB would be an ideal material for the ceiling, right enough - strong, durable, not saggy... BUT it won't LOOK so good.Put some Bluegrit on, and then slap some Knauf drywall mud on top.ChilliBob said:Nice, I'll give that a look. I'm guessing it's better than the retail version: https://www.homebase.co.uk/dulux-weathershield-smooth-masonry-paint-pure-brilliant-white-7.5l/12891413.html same story as usual trade right, better opacity and just nicer to use?
The retail paints are generally thinner, so you need more coats to get the same depth of colour. And at the moment, you are only saving ~£4 by going for the retail version.
Her courage will change the world.
Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.0 -
ChilliBob said:Bendy_House said:Tbh, provided your walls are not letting through any damp from the outside, then standard emulsion paint will actually do. Perhaps go vinyl silk for extra durability?
Yes, for rescrewing the p'board, you MUST remove all 'sag' first. Prop it gently back up until it's tight against the joists, then screw.
Propping - gotcha. My poor man's version might be a chair and wide broom if it reaches! Ironically the trampoline bits I got rid (yesterday!) of and some old skirting would have done the trick!Masonry paint would be more reliable, I'm sure. It sticks well, is durable, should be scrubbable. I usually use Sandtex smooth which i think is decent stuff, but would be happy to try others with an equal, or better, reputation.Masonry paint will not in any way obliterate the existing texture - it isn't 'filling' in that sense - but it should look good, if 'industrial'.By all means try FB's idea for smoothing it out... :-)0 -
I did put some left over Tourpret over some pencil sized holes which the bloke before had some punch bag attached to (I think). Which looks alright.
My Mrs jokes I use more filler than an Essex sort. We live in Essex and I guess that makes me an Essex boy lol, but no, I don't drive a Capri (my brother did lol)...
I'm tempted by the Knauff stuff, the bathroom fitters left a tub and it was decent when I used a bit.
Tbh though I really need to crack on building the bedside cot for the newbie due in two and a bit weeks. My wife just gives me a look when I talk about painting the inside of the shed lol.
Side note, gaps between plasterboard and the perimiter seem to be spider playground, and I'm not keen on spiders.. Any reason why I can't run a bead of something around it? Caulk springs to mind, being cheap, but not sure if it's up to the job. Ct1 may be, but it would probably use sbout three tubes, so an expensive option!0 -
The cheapest caulk will do. Or frame sealant. Caulk prob easier as you can smooth it flush using a filling knife.0
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