Interior of outbuilding - options?

Bendy_House

If that building is large enough, then you might want to turn one end or part into a chilling room which does have heating, floor covering, music etc? The method would be to line that part - walls, ceiling and floor - with insulation, of which there are many types. I'd make it where there's a window for ventilation. Or, fit trickle vents, which can be to the exterior, or to the rest of the building.

stuart45

When you do your ceiling get yourself a second-hand pair of plasterers stilts from ebay. 

Megaross

Screw the boards down properly, scrim tape the joints, skim.

Honestly plastering isn't that difficult. Get your first coat reasonable, wait til it goes a bit cheesy then go round and flat it down. Second coat is basically a thin coat just to really iron out any imperfections, wet trowel polish it when nearly dry. Jobs a goodun.

Ideal place to learn as well. Not a main living area.

Enjoy having one arm like popeye mind, ceilings are fun.

FreeBear

Bendy_House said: The sagging, tho', is unlikely to be down to lack of screws, but lack of joists/noggins.

Probably not helped by the fact the space is unheated - During the winter months, condensation will build up, and plasterboard really doesn't like being damp.

As for the length of screws, 32-35mm long will be about right. I usually aim for ~25mm of engagement on anything being fixed with screws (longer if heavy or going into soft aerated cement blocks).

ChilliBob

Cheers for all the comments guys. I think...

1. I'll paint the walls to start with
2. Try some of my screws and see how I get on

If/when it turns into more than a shed - i.e. we're forced to move the rowing machine, or a deal pops up on something like air hockey etc then I'll look to do more with the floor and ceiling. 

Totally agreed about it being a good place to start - I mean, it looks a bit pants already, worst case it'd look like it's been artexed lol. 

On the plasterboard being damp side of things - would sealing it with anything help that? - Obviously if I do what you guys are saying by taping, filling, skimming etc then it will - but meantime is there anything i can just splash on like a primer/sealer type thing?

FreeBear

No point in trying to seal the plasterboard against damp - You have two sides that are subject to condensation.

Moisture resistant plasterboard is available, but I have mixed feelings about the stuff - For your ceiling, if the PB is to be replaced, I'd consider using OSB.

Bendy_House

ChilliBob said:

Cheers for all the comments guys. I think...

1. I'll paint the walls to start with
2. Try some of my screws and see how I get on

If/when it turns into more than a shed - i.e. we're forced to move the rowing machine, or a deal pops up on something like air hockey etc then I'll look to do more with the floor and ceiling. 

Totally agreed about it being a good place to start - I mean, it looks a bit pants already, worst case it'd look like it's been artexed lol. 

On the plasterboard being damp side of things - would sealing it with anything help that? - Obviously if I do what you guys are saying by taping, filling, skimming etc then it will - but meantime is there anything i can just splash on like a primer/sealer type thing?

I wouldn't seal it - it's not the answer.

IF the plasterboard is damp, then that's an issue in itself that needs sorting. It shouldn't be damp in there, if the garage is well ventilated. It'll be cold, yes, but not damp. Plasterboard should be fine.

I'd personally like to have a hatch put in that ceiling so you could check out what's happening above. I hope you'll find it's draughty - howling like the wolves - as that will also mean it's dry. And, if the existing p'board is rescueable by simply adding more noggins (really, not hard - cut to fit snugly between joists, and skew-screw them into place), then you'll need access up there anyway.

I suspect it's just sagging under its own weight - it's what p'board does. Remember, do not try and pull it back into shape using screws on their own - it almost certainly will not work! You must prop it up gently first, then screw. Two lengths of batten, made in to a 'T' - prop.

ChilliBob

The plasterboard feels bone dry to me, and I know for a fact it's been there for about 12-13 years.

As regards your t prop idea, so essentially where you're screwing into needs to be supported such that the PB isn't under any load when you're trying to screw into it? - That makes sense, by some strange coincidence I sort of did that on the saggy one I sorted before (which was easier as it had my old desk under it, so less distance to go between propping up!

I do wonder if a 'general builder' would be up for ripping it out and replacing it with OSB as suggested above. Not really sure where this lies 'trade' wise - it doesn't feel like 'roofing' as it's not outside, it doesn't feel like 'decorating' as it's more than paint/fill etc - so surely it's gotta just sit with general building? - Perhaps chippy?!

ChilliBob

Slight side note - any views on brands of masonry? - I tend to stick to Dulux Trade stuff in the house - miles better than their retail offering, or Zinsser stuff where required.

Looks like the Dulux Weathershield and the Sandtex both get decent enough ratings? Wickes own seems decent enough too - a bit cheaper per litre. Guessing a long pile sleeve and not medium too

FreeBear

ChilliBob said:  Looks like the Dulux Weathershield and the Sandtex both get decent enough ratings?

Dulux Weathershield is on offer at the moment from their trade centres - Picked up a 7.5l (£24) tub last week for less than a 5l (£31) tin.