possible incorrect fitting of Ecodan system

meadowgrass

shinytop said:

@meadowgrass, if your Ecodan is connected to an E10 switch then you really need to get that sorted first.

Are you using a Mitsubish branded wireless controller?  If you are, and are controlling the heating using room temperature, then the system might be set up to run on Mitsubishi's auto adaptation.  This (sort of) ignores the weather compensation settings and does its own thing based on outside temp, the actual room temp (detected where the wireless controller is located) and the target room temp you set.  If it's not too warm outside and you turn the heating up as high as it will go for a while, the radiators should get quite hot.  

I don't know to what extent your system is locked down and whether you can make it run using the compensation curve.  To use the compensation curve you want the screen to look like the second video in @markin's post. But using temperature control with a Mitsubishi controller isn't a bad way to run the system.  

If it's not a Mitsubishi controller then it's completely different ball game ...

Thanks for your post @shinytop and, yes, contacting the HA first about having the connection/system checked seems important to prioritize. I could spend time testing it and there still not be constant heat, if there is something else wrong, so will contact them and hope it goes smoothly.

It is the Mitsubishi wireless controller and set to auto adapt, if I remember rightly from earlier. Will add panel pics tomorrow.

I'm not sure enough of how the compensation curve stuff works to know if that would be fix things.

Reed_Richards

meadowgrass said:

I'm not sure enough of how the compensation curve stuff works to know if that would be fix things.

No, it would not fix things.  It cannot have anything to do with your 10 hours of heat.  It's just a feature that might allow you to run your Ecodan heat pump more economically when you get it running properly.  For the present I suggest that you do no tamper with the settings.

meadowgrass

Reed_Richards said:

meadowgrass said:

I'm not sure enough of how the compensation curve stuff works to know if that would be fix things.

No, it would not fix things.  It cannot have anything to do with your 10 hours of heat.  It's just a feature that might allow you to run your Ecodan heat pump more economically when you get it running properly.  For the present I suggest that you do no tamper with the settings.

Thanks @Reed_Richards Much appreciate, and will leave settings as are.

markin

With old gas boilers the flow temp around the rads would be 60c or 70c in a short period to get the house to 22c and then come on in short bursts to maintain it, Very inefficient, With a heat pump they aim to be on for far longer, almost 15hrs but far cooler around 30c but they need to get close to 50c in real cold snaps or to heat the water to 50c but as you don't heat the water its only the cold snaps you need to worry about.

The is a symbol on the main controller that indicates if the fan outside is running, Outside the E10 times if you crank the indoor temps to 30c and put it in manual like in the first video that should show if the is something stopping it from woking.

Was the main controller set to use the comp curve or the manual set temp using the remote? Some users leave the home temp at 30c and adjust the actual temp using the curve setting.


Fan outside is running

 


You can see it pop up in this video as he changes the water setting.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ogA9BcTPl_8

Reed_Richards

If I cut the power to my heat pump the controller loses power and its screen goes blank.  But it's possible your controller has been wired to a different circuit to the heat pump and so stays on even when there is no power to the heat pump.

I have just had a close look at the picture of your consumer unit and it looks extremely odd!!!  It's normal to have a circuit for the lights, a circuit for the electrical sockets (one for each floor in a house), a circuit for the cooker, a circuit for the immersion heater  and a circuit for the heat pump in your case.  So I guess the picture is just the Economy 10 consumer unit and you have another one nearby or somewhere else.  Can you post a picture of the other one too, please @meadowgrass .

pochase

In the old thread there were pictures of both consumer units already.

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/79289570/#Comment_79289570

 

Reed_Richards

So it looks as if the Heat Pump is the double width circuit breaker immediately to the left of the mains switch (with Cooker crossed out).  I wonder, @meadowgrass, does the controller go off (blank) if that circuit breaker is switched off?

Also, every circuit on the "Off Peak Supply" unit is off (I think).  Has you changed anything or has it been like that since you heat pump was fitted?

meadowgrass

Sorry for any delay in response; didn't get much sleep, so am running behind, and not as alert as I'd like to be right now ... hopefully I can wrap my head around things. Thank you @markin and @Reed_Richards and @pochase ... really appreciate your time and further advice. I'll get the panel photos done later today.

When I turn the system off at the panel, the remote shows 'oFF'.
I'm a bit nervous to mess with any switches. I can confirm that I've touched nothing to do with the off peak supply unit, not since moving into this property in 2013. If the Ecodan installers changed anything, I can't confirm, but it's possible. If I turn the system back on, then turn off the switch that says 'cooker' but crossed out, it won't affect anything else? (I'd turn the computer off before trying, and don't have/use a cooker).
About adjusting temperature outside E10 times .. not sure of the exact times, but I can check when the meter is flashing '1' as I submit that reading as a nightly-rate reading, so that must be the off-peak. Might take a little while; meter is low down and have to use a mirror on a stick, lol, to do readings, and to check which number it's on today. I'm a bit overwhelmed about the rest of the test ... suggestion is to turn the system back on, manually use the remote to raise temperature to 30c, and then I'd need to turn off the auto-adapt to see if it responds to weather curve, and leave heating on for the day?
Not sure about the other bit ... comp curve or manual set temp using remote?
I'm worrying that this system is far too hands on; if it ever does do all-day heat, the last thing I'd want is adjusting it 3 times a day when E10 hours change ... just seeking to have it on one panel setting and able to use the remote to adjust temperature as necessary. That's what they'd said it would do when installing it, so I'm hoping that advice wasn't dishonest.

Sorry, as I'm starting to struggle a bit much with things. Great suggestions, but might take me a while to do, or see if I'm confident to try some of these things.  

markin

You should be able to find your E10 times online for your company and area, And then if the fan symbol pops up in a test far outside of the times then it should be working 24hrs, Maybe take a photo of all the current setting so you can put it back how it was if you need to.


If this is the same remote model its useless apart from temporary water boosts and heating boosts, So just ignore it and use the main controller.  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KypR1WjDarg

meadowgrass

Thanks again @markin Appreciate further advice. I think I'm going to have to call it a day for now; the Ecodan is far too complex. All I know is that something isn't right, either in the fitting or the settings, but am also concerned incase HA dont come through and a bit too overwhelmed at the moment to contact them and find out. Will take a break and come back to this a bit later, possibly in the next cooler spell. I can then check if the meter shows '2'/daytime rates and the panel shows a fan icon. Promised the panel photos, so will get those done later today.