Drills

SavingStudent1

Hello,

I just wanted to buy a drill on this black friday sale, if I could get a cheap one - but most cheap ones are not reduced due to their lower price. So, I'm not really fussed about that but would still like to get it this week.

For example, I was looking at: 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/mac-allister-mshd600-600w-electric-impact-drill-240v/294gf#product_additional_details_container, for corded drills.

1. I was wondering, how can the chuck capacity be 13mm yet capacity wood be 25 mm? If you can only put a 13 mm thickness drill bit in the chuck, then how can you have a capacity of 25 mm for wood - doesn't that mean you can create a 25 mm diameter hole but would require a 25 mm drill bit too?

2. Also, is this a good drill for complete beginners who just want to use it around the house to drill holes for hanging photos, shelves, assembling items etc.?

3. Also, can this drill be used as a screwdriver and if so, how can I know just by looking at the info specification?

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In terms of cordless, I am thinking to get this - again the cheapest option: https://www.screwfix.com/p/mac-allister-msdd18-li-2-18v-1-5ah-li-ion-cordless-drill-driver/873fx, and the same company.

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4. When I buy a drill for the purposes mentioned above, what other items should I buy with it e.g. pack of screws, wall plugs etc.? I am essentially trying to form a toolkit so that when I need to complete these tasks, I have everything that I need.

Thanks

ilikewatch2

1) "Spade" bits and hole saws for drilling wood widen towards the tip, so the business end is wider than the end that goes in the chuck.

2) Probably - yes. I'd prefer something cordless for safety/versatility/ease, but occasional use isn't great for batteries.

3) No, it doesn't appear to have a range of torque settings, and a 2- handed drill would be unwieldy for screwdriving. Drills designed to be used for screwdriving in addition to wood/metal/masonry drilling are typically called "Combi" drills and have a 2 speed gearbox and a range of torque settings. 

4) Perhaps consider buying a pair of safety goggles and a stud/pipe/AC detector depending on your appetite for risk.

Phantom151

It'll be hard work using the cordless for masonry. I have the Titan version of that drill and has served me well for amny years now. I got fed up trying to use it on walls so picked up an SDS one but it is overkill for what you seem to want to do.

If you want todrill lots of holes into masonry then in all honesty you'll need both.

Another_Level

Thyere are so many drill's on the market, some for diy, project and professional use 

Many diy/project tools are generic with  different branded names 

Tbh if rarely used a corded drill will always be ready for use.  New Reconditioned/returns/refurbished professional tools from authorized shops are also available.

The inhell drill mentioned here is ok for diy/project use https://www.ptctools.co.uk/browse.php/section/12086/level/4/sort/pa

Check delivery charges, maybe buy a set of drill bits https://www.ptctools.co.uk/browse.php/section/12142/level/4

Screwdriving battery tools are available There great for doing a lot od screw driving but why not just buy a set of stanley hand operated screwdrivers https://www.ptctools.co.uk/search.php/search/set screwdrivers/start/25
Lidl often sell sets of drill bits, screws/rawl plugs, screwdriver bits etc. There actually not bad 

Happy drilling 

 

flashg67

I have the same cordless one from screwfix and it is perfect for DIY use. I bought one for a family member for similar use. I agree you'll likely need a corded drill too if you intend drilling into brick/masonry/stone etc in any quantity. Having said that, the cordless one does let me put holes in the sandstone walls with a bit of effort. Personally, I'd by the cordless one first, then a 'budget' corded hammer drill for occasional masonry use

Bendy_House

All solid information above.

Both drills appear to be very good value, and Screwfix are good for honouring the manufacturer's guarantee - which seems to be 2 years?

1. How can the chuck capacity be 13mm yet capacity wood be 25 mm? 13mm is the max size of drill bit 'shank' - the part of the bit that goes in to the chuck. The cutting end of the drill obviously varies according to the size of hole you wish to drill - it'll often be larger or smaller than the shank. 

2. Also, is this a good drill for complete beginners who just want to use it around the house to drill holes for hanging photos, shelves, assembling items etc.? Yes. In fact both of the ones you mention will do 95% of the jobs you should want to do.

3. Also, can this drill be used as a screwdriver and if so, how can I know just by looking at the info specification? Hmm, yes and no. What you need for driving screws is a slow speed and high torque (turning force). You get this from a gearbox. From what I can see from these ads, the cordless drill appears to have a gearbox, but I'm not sure the corded one does. Yes, you can vary the speed (of both drills) using their variable-speed triggers - which are electronic speed controls - but this is not the same as a mechanical gearbox; with the trigger control, at low speeds the drill will have a correspondingly low torque, which is not what you need. I suspect that most of the reports of burning out the corded drill are down to folk using the low trigger speeds on heavy-torque applications, such as mixing plaster! No surprise there. Instead you want the drill to be running at a reasonably fast speed, but the chuck speed to have been reduced down using a 2-speed gearbox in order to deliver more power. It's exactly like shifting down a gear in your car to go up a steep hill.

The cordless drill will do most of the jobs you will need. It'll also be far more convenient to use - it'll be your go-to tool. You'll then call on the corded version when heavier tasks are needed, like hammer-drilling into solid walls, or for drilling large holes in timber (again, gear the speed down so you get max torque).

If your walls are solid and concrete - ie really hard stuff - then you may also need to go 'SDS' type drill too, but for the moment I think these two will serve you well.

Treat them with respect - don't 'labour' them. Don't have them turning slowly with a low trigger speed in a heavy-duty job.

SavingStudent1

Regarding the comments of above, why do you all say that I'll need to buy another drill for masonry in terms of:

1. Corded. Why is this cordless drill not as good for masonry?

2. Why is the original corded drill not good enough, as in the info it says capacity masonry 13mm - so I assume it can drill through it with quite a large diameter? Is it more that it won't be able to drill deep and as much as you require?

The type of drilling I'd do is probably max 8 mm diameter hole, but with varying depth depending on what I am trying to do.

SavingStudent1

Bendy_House said:

All solid information above.

Both drills appear to be very good value, and Screwfix are good for honouring the manufacturer's guarantee - which seems to be 2 years?

1. How can the chuck capacity be 13mm yet capacity wood be 25 mm? 13mm is the max size of drill bit 'shank' - the part of the bit that goes in to the chuck. The cutting end of the drill obviously varies according to the size of hole you wish to drill - it'll often be larger or smaller than the shank. 

2. Also, is this a good drill for complete beginners who just want to use it around the house to drill holes for hanging photos, shelves, assembling items etc.? Yes. In fact both of the ones you mention will do 95% of the jobs you should want to do.

3. Also, can this drill be used as a screwdriver and if so, how can I know just by looking at the info specification? Hmm, yes and no. What you need for driving screws is a slow speed and high torque (turning force). You get this from a gearbox. From what I can see from these ads, the cordless drill appears to have a gearbox, but I'm not sure the corded one does. Yes, you can vary the speed (of both drills) using their variable-speed triggers - which are electronic speed controls - but this is not the same as a mechanical gearbox; with the trigger control, at low speeds the drill will have a correspondingly low torque, which is not what you need. I suspect that most of the reports of burning out the corded drill are down to folk using the low trigger speeds on heavy-torque applications, such as mixing plaster! No surprise there. Instead you want the drill to be running at a reasonably fast speed, but the chuck speed to have been reduced down using a 2-speed gearbox in order to deliver more power. It's exactly like shifting down a gear in your car to go up a steep hill.

The cordless drill will do most of the jobs you will need. It'll also be far more convenient to use - it'll be your go-to tool. You'll then call on the corded version when heavier tasks are needed, like hammer-drilling into solid walls, or for drilling large holes in timber (again, gear the speed down so you get max torque).

If your walls are solid and concrete - ie really hard stuff - then you may also need to go 'SDS' type drill too, but for the moment I think these two will serve you well.

Treat them with respect - don't 'labour' them. Don't have them turning slowly with a low trigger speed in a heavy-duty job.

Thank you, that really helps. Regarding 1: If I want to drill a 7mm diameter hole, I will need a 7mm drill bit shank right?

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2. My walls are as such: plastered and behind is brick, so they are made of brick and we have plastered the front of them and this is the case for all around the house. So, I will be wanting to drill into these walls (plastered over brick) for the activities mentioned - hanging shelves, frames etc.

FaceHead

I'd recommend second hand if you are looking to save money, rather than buying the cheapest new tools available. 

There are plenty of quality used tools on eBay, Facebook marketplace etc., and in my view you get a better tool with some cosmetic defects than you get new for the same money. 

I got a blue Bosch drill with a 5ah battery second hand (£70, eBay) and have never looked back. Great for everything from IKEA furniture to putting shelves up. I even use it for mixing tile cement and such like. It made hard work of putting a 16mm hole in a 9" wall,  but did the job as a one off. 

As a rule, buy tools as you need them, and then either keep or resell them. Don't go out and try to buy everything as you'll never quite have what you need, and will have bought things you never used. 

Another_Level

MacAllister is a nice sounding name (borrowed from another company in usa  )   The drill is made in china so is  einhell although einhell are german designed with ongoing german quality control. 

MacAllister exclusively made for kingfisher and sold in kingfisher uk & european diy sheds.

Have a read of the Mac drill screwfix/amazon reviews, save time start from lowest score.

That Mac drill will do what you have mentioned but not screw driving. last time i purchased the cheapest drill in a diy shed the operative told me it was a rubbish tool and wont last  and they will not replace it if it breaks down after a year.

Secondhand tools have been mentioned, they could be stolen tools 

Andy_L

SavingStudent1 said:

Bendy_House said:

All solid information above.

Both drills appear to be very good value, and Screwfix are good for honouring the manufacturer's guarantee - which seems to be 2 years?

1. How can the chuck capacity be 13mm yet capacity wood be 25 mm? 13mm is the max size of drill bit 'shank' - the part of the bit that goes in to the chuck. The cutting end of the drill obviously varies according to the size of hole you wish to drill - it'll often be larger or smaller than the shank. 

2. Also, is this a good drill for complete beginners who just want to use it around the house to drill holes for hanging photos, shelves, assembling items etc.? Yes. In fact both of the ones you mention will do 95% of the jobs you should want to do.

3. Also, can this drill be used as a screwdriver and if so, how can I know just by looking at the info specification? Hmm, yes and no. What you need for driving screws is a slow speed and high torque (turning force). You get this from a gearbox. From what I can see from these ads, the cordless drill appears to have a gearbox, but I'm not sure the corded one does. Yes, you can vary the speed (of both drills) using their variable-speed triggers - which are electronic speed controls - but this is not the same as a mechanical gearbox; with the trigger control, at low speeds the drill will have a correspondingly low torque, which is not what you need. I suspect that most of the reports of burning out the corded drill are down to folk using the low trigger speeds on heavy-torque applications, such as mixing plaster! No surprise there. Instead you want the drill to be running at a reasonably fast speed, but the chuck speed to have been reduced down using a 2-speed gearbox in order to deliver more power. It's exactly like shifting down a gear in your car to go up a steep hill.

The cordless drill will do most of the jobs you will need. It'll also be far more convenient to use - it'll be your go-to tool. You'll then call on the corded version when heavier tasks are needed, like hammer-drilling into solid walls, or for drilling large holes in timber (again, gear the speed down so you get max torque).

If your walls are solid and concrete - ie really hard stuff - then you may also need to go 'SDS' type drill too, but for the moment I think these two will serve you well.

Treat them with respect - don't 'labour' them. Don't have them turning slowly with a low trigger speed in a heavy-duty job.

Thank you, that really helps. Regarding 1: If I want to drill a 7mm diameter hole, I will need a 7mm drill bit shank right?

---

2. My walls are as such: plastered and behind is brick, so they are made of brick and we have plastered the front of them and this is the case for all around the house. So, I will be wanting to drill into these walls (plastered over brick) for the activities mentioned - hanging shelves, frames etc.

you will need a 7mm drill, that will, usually, have a shank dia of 7mm. Since that is <13mm it will fit in to the chuck of the drill

Drills for masonry & metal are (again usually) the same(-ish) diameter along their entire length - generally because its cheaper to make a drill that way and drills at that price point & that style of chuck aren't powerful enough to make a bigger hole in masonry/metal.

On the other hand they are powerful enough to drill a bigger hole in wood, so the cutting end of the drill is bigger than the shank.

25mm wood drill (with a ~6mm shank)


7mm masonry drill (note slightly bigger at the tip than the shank)