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Drills

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  • I picked up a Dewalt DCD796 for about £70, but they are on offer in various places for about £60.

    It is a cordless drill but arrives as a bare tool, so you need to add on the cost of a battery and a charger. You can get a 2AH battery for £24 and a charger for £8

    Total: £92

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/402808760734?hash=item5dc945e99e:g:K88AAOSwyjBW5~4b
    https://www.screwsandfasteners.co.uk/dewalt-dcb183-xj-18v-20ah-battery.html
    https://www.screwsandfasteners.co.uk/dewalt-dcb115-108v-18v-multi-voltage-charger.html

    Okay, so that's a lot to spend on a drill. Hence this is not a very strong suggestion. The drills already selected are probably fine.

    However, if you want to buy just one drill, I had absolutely no problem drilling into masonary with it.
    I also found it was fine drilling into wood with a 40mm forstner bit.
    The drill has a metal gearbox that will last longer.
    And a clutch makes it more versatile and more useful for screw driving.

    Bundle that with a three year warranty on the drill (register within 4 weeks of purchase) and I think it is worth thinking about.

    DIY is a good money saving skill and having better tools can, I believe, make you more inclined towards it.
    If finances are really tight, I would look for a good model corded drill on the second hand market (Facebook Marketplace?).

    A dream is not reality, but who's to say which is which?
  • Regarding the comments of above, why do you all say that I'll need to buy another drill for masonry in terms of:

    1. Corded. Why is this cordless drill not as good for masonry?

    2. Why is the original corded drill not good enough, as in the info it says capacity masonry 13mm - so I assume it can drill through it with quite a large diameter? Is it more that it won't be able to drill deep and as much as you require?

    The type of drilling I'd do is probably max 8 mm diameter hole, but with varying depth depending on what I am trying to do.

    Cordless drills generally lack the oomph needed for masonry. It will eventually do it but it is really frustrating.

    The corded drill you linked to will be fine. I bought a cheapy from Argos 10 years ago and it still works even though I rarely use it anymore.
  • stuart45
    stuart45 Posts: 4,857 Forumite
    Sixth Anniversary 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    Masonry varies a lot in how difficult it is to drill into. AAC blockwork is really easy, most internal bricks are reasonably soft, although they can be really hard. Stonework can be quite soft or really hard like Chert or flint.
    When looking at an SDS drill look at the J rating.
  • Bendy_House
    Bendy_House Posts: 4,756 Forumite
    1,000 Posts Second Anniversary Name Dropper
    Thank you, that really helps. Regarding 1: If I want to drill a 7mm diameter hole, I will need a 7mm drill bit shank right?

    ---

    2. My walls are as such: plastered and behind is brick, so they are made of brick and we have plastered the front of them and this is the case for all around the house. So, I will be wanting to drill into these walls (plastered over brick) for the activities mentioned - hanging shelves, frames etc.

    1) If you want to drill a 7mm hole, you buy a '7mm drill'. It may, or may not, have a 7mm shank. The 7mm refers to the cutting tip.
    The 13mm chuck capacity is plenty. If you look at drill bits larger than this - if you want to drill a 15mm hole - the chances are the bits will have <13mm shanks, so will still fit the drill.
    2) Most brick is quite drillable using a 'hammer' drill - like the corded one. The plaster layer is quite soft, and will drill through with ease, but it also won't do so much to support the screws and plugs you put in there; you really want to go through the plaster, and far enough into the brick to do all the securing effect.
    The cordless drill will likely also have a 'hammer' action, which is generally just a disc with bumps on it which vibrate the chuck slightly forwards in order to do a mini-'hammer'. The cordless drill will, however, always be less powerful than the corded version, and the 'hammer' action also less pronounced; it'll likely struggle, tho' might still 'get there'.
    (This is where more expensive tools win out - everything will be that bit more effective - power, durability, effect, etc).
    So, that corded drill will likely go into your brick quite happily.
    Anything harder than 'brick', tho' - such as concrete blocks which have pebbles and all sorts in them - it'll struggle with. What often happens then is that the drill bit 'wanders' and goes off-target, very annoying. So, if you find the 'hammer' action doesn't cut the mustard, then you need to go 'SDS'. This is not only a different type of 'bit', but the actual drill 'action' is quite different - it has a 'punching' mechanism which is far more powerful than just 'hammer'.
    I couldn't get my hammer drill to go through my 1930's block walls, so invested in the cheapest SDS drill from Screwfix... It went right through the bludy kitchen wall and blew the plaster off the other side - I was so gobsmacked at how well it drilled, I didn't stop :-( .
    You will only need an SDS drill for such jobs, tho' - they are otherwise more heavy and unwieldy.
  • Gavin83
    Gavin83 Posts: 8,757 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    I picked up a Dewalt DCD796 for about £70, but they are on offer in various places for about £60.

    It is a cordless drill but arrives as a bare tool, so you need to add on the cost of a battery and a charger. You can get a 2AH battery for £24 and a charger for £8

    Total: £92

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/402808760734?hash=item5dc945e99e:g:K88AAOSwyjBW5~4b
    https://www.screwsandfasteners.co.uk/dewalt-dcb183-xj-18v-20ah-battery.html
    https://www.screwsandfasteners.co.uk/dewalt-dcb115-108v-18v-multi-voltage-charger.html

    Okay, so that's a lot to spend on a drill. Hence this is not a very strong suggestion. The drills already selected are probably fine.

    However, if you want to buy just one drill, I had absolutely no problem drilling into masonary with it.
    I also found it was fine drilling into wood with a 40mm forstner bit.
    The drill has a metal gearbox that will last longer.
    And a clutch makes it more versatile and more useful for screw driving.

    Bundle that with a three year warranty on the drill (register within 4 weeks of purchase) and I think it is worth thinking about.

    DIY is a good money saving skill and having better tools can, I believe, make you more inclined towards it.
    If finances are really tight, I would look for a good model corded drill on the second hand market (Facebook Marketplace?).

    I second this suggestion. I also own a DeWalt DCD796 and it’s excellent. Hasn’t really struggled with anything yet, including masonry. Wouldn’t suit anything too hard but it’ll do for most requirements.
  • Andy_L said:
    All solid information above.
    Both drills appear to be very good value, and Screwfix are good for honouring the manufacturer's guarantee - which seems to be 2 years?

    1. How can the chuck capacity be 13mm yet capacity wood be 25 mm? 13mm is the max size of drill bit 'shank' - the part of the bit that goes in to the chuck. The cutting end of the drill obviously varies according to the size of hole you wish to drill - it'll often be larger or smaller than the shank. 

    2. Also, is this a good drill for complete beginners who just want to use it around the house to drill holes for hanging photos, shelves, assembling items etc.? Yes. In fact both of the ones you mention will do 95% of the jobs you should want to do.

    3. Also, can this drill be used as a screwdriver and if so, how can I know just by looking at the info specification? Hmm, yes and no. What you need for driving screws is a slow speed and high torque (turning force). You get this from a gearbox. From what I can see from these ads, the cordless drill appears to have a gearbox, but I'm not sure the corded one does. Yes, you can vary the speed (of both drills) using their variable-speed triggers - which are electronic speed controls - but this is not the same as a mechanical gearbox; with the trigger control, at low speeds the drill will have a correspondingly low torque, which is not what you need. I suspect that most of the reports of burning out the corded drill are down to folk using the low trigger speeds on heavy-torque applications, such as mixing plaster! No surprise there. Instead you want the drill to be running at a reasonably fast speed, but the chuck speed to have been reduced down using a 2-speed gearbox in order to deliver more power. It's exactly like shifting down a gear in your car to go up a steep hill.

    The cordless drill will do most of the jobs you will need. It'll also be far more convenient to use - it'll be your go-to tool. You'll then call on the corded version when heavier tasks are needed, like hammer-drilling into solid walls, or for drilling large holes in timber (again, gear the speed down so you get max torque).
    If your walls are solid and concrete - ie really hard stuff - then you may also need to go 'SDS' type drill too, but for the moment I think these two will serve you well.
    Treat them with respect - don't 'labour' them. Don't have them turning slowly with a low trigger speed in a heavy-duty job.
    Thank you, that really helps. Regarding 1: If I want to drill a 7mm diameter hole, I will need a 7mm drill bit shank right?

    ---

    2. My walls are as such: plastered and behind is brick, so they are made of brick and we have plastered the front of them and this is the case for all around the house. So, I will be wanting to drill into these walls (plastered over brick) for the activities mentioned - hanging shelves, frames etc.
    you will need a 7mm drill, that will, usually, have a shank dia of 7mm. Since that is <13mm it will fit in to the chuck of the drill

    Drills for masonry & metal are (again usually) the same(-ish) diameter along their entire length - generally because its cheaper to make a drill that way and drills at that price point & that style of chuck aren't powerful enough to make a bigger hole in masonry/metal.

    On the other hand they are powerful enough to drill a bigger hole in wood, so the cutting end of the drill is bigger than the shank.

    25mm wood drill (with a ~6mm shank)


    7mm masonry drill (note slightly bigger at the tip than the shank)




    Oh okay, but the tip is the part that is drilled into the wall right, so essentially the tip is the part which will determine the diameter of the hole? This makes more sense now!
  • SavingStudent1
    SavingStudent1 Posts: 204 Forumite
    Third Anniversary 100 Posts Name Dropper
    edited 24 November 2021 at 7:06PM
    Thank you, that really helps. Regarding 1: If I want to drill a 7mm diameter hole, I will need a 7mm drill bit shank right?

    ---

    2. My walls are as such: plastered and behind is brick, so they are made of brick and we have plastered the front of them and this is the case for all around the house. So, I will be wanting to drill into these walls (plastered over brick) for the activities mentioned - hanging shelves, frames etc.

    1) If you want to drill a 7mm hole, you buy a '7mm drill'. It may, or may not, have a 7mm shank. The 7mm refers to the cutting tip.
    The 13mm chuck capacity is plenty. If you look at drill bits larger than this - if you want to drill a 15mm hole - the chances are the bits will have <13mm shanks, so will still fit the drill.
    2) Most brick is quite drillable using a 'hammer' drill - like the corded one. The plaster layer is quite soft, and will drill through with ease, but it also won't do so much to support the screws and plugs you put in there; you really want to go through the plaster, and far enough into the brick to do all the securing effect.
    The cordless drill will likely also have a 'hammer' action, which is generally just a disc with bumps on it which vibrate the chuck slightly forwards in order to do a mini-'hammer'. The cordless drill will, however, always be less powerful than the corded version, and the 'hammer' action also less pronounced; it'll likely struggle, tho' might still 'get there'.
    (This is where more expensive tools win out - everything will be that bit more effective - power, durability, effect, etc).
    So, that corded drill will likely go into your brick quite happily.
    Anything harder than 'brick', tho' - such as concrete blocks which have pebbles and all sorts in them - it'll struggle with. What often happens then is that the drill bit 'wanders' and goes off-target, very annoying. So, if you find the 'hammer' action doesn't cut the mustard, then you need to go 'SDS'. This is not only a different type of 'bit', but the actual drill 'action' is quite different - it has a 'punching' mechanism which is far more powerful than just 'hammer'.
    I couldn't get my hammer drill to go through my 1930's block walls, so invested in the cheapest SDS drill from Screwfix... It went right through the bludy kitchen wall and blew the plaster off the other side - I was so gobsmacked at how well it drilled, I didn't stop :-( .
    You will only need an SDS drill for such jobs, tho' - they are otherwise more heavy and unwieldy.
    Perfect, I think I will buy the corded drill that I posted originally as it sort of does all jobs comfortably, considering I have brick walls. I am not exactly too worried about it not having a screwdriver function, I will look into that a separate time. I will probably buy actual screwdrivers, screws and wall plugs too so I will ask on that soon lol, sorry!
  • Thanks everyone, it is more about the price rather than saving money. It is my first time buying a drill and I haven't really done DIY before, so I am trying to buy the simplest items that will do the job, and mostly they end up being the cheapest ones. I don't want an expensive drill that will do multiple jobs comfortably, but one that I'll never use for those jobs as I don't intend on doing them. I also don't want to buy something expensive and mess it up, and lose a lot of money in the process... I know they have warranties, but I am quite risk averse - I don't like to think about them.
  • Bendy_House
    Bendy_House Posts: 4,756 Forumite
    1,000 Posts Second Anniversary Name Dropper
    I don't have expensive tools - the last 2 drills (corded and cordless) were Ryobi. Unless you are planning to do a hell of a lot of work with them, they will last just fine.
    And Screwfix does have a good reputation for honouring warranties (I'm sure Toolstation has too). If it fails within the warranty period, and if it doesn't have obvious signs of abuse, they'll replace it no issue.
    Treat yourself to a cordless too - it is soooo much easier and nicer to use :smile:
  • I'll never use for those jobs as I don't intend on doing them.
    I think this is a shame.

    In your situation, I would buy a good second hand corded drill. Corded drills are cheap on the used market and there are plenty about that have hardly been used.

    I've found cheaper drills more inclined to mess up a job when I've used them with chucks that come undone, or a poorly centred or even just the drill being less refined and harder to handle.

    Same can be said of cheap drill bits and screwdrivers. They don't last long and some of them a done the first time you use them.
    Some of the quality ones will last your lifetime.

    In terms of bits and accessories, save for buying a small set with commonly sized wood and masonary bits, I would look at buying them as you need them. It's hard to anticipate what you will need your tool kit for.
    A dream is not reality, but who's to say which is which?
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