Plasterboard for bathroom wall

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  • danrv
    danrv Posts: 1,579 Forumite
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    I’ve removed the plaster now from the main shower wall which is opposite the one I originally posted about.
    Thought it would be ok for tiling hence asking plasterer to leave it.
    On closer inspection, it’s popping in some areas and not a good idea to tile onto.
    Had a suggestion to use Hardiebacker board.




  • NSG666
    NSG666 Posts: 981 Forumite
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    Hardiebacker or NoMorePly are cement based backer boards that I have used until I discovered Jackoboard / Marmox. I've put a link below to a supplier who does all of the main backer boards just so you can see what there is as it's probably cheaper to buy local. Whatever you use needs fixing with flexible tile adhesive (powder) but I'd use 12mm Jacko or similar as it's lighter and easier to cut and work with.
    I went off NoMorePly as you need to use other products to seal it blah blah blah.
    Use tiler's primer on the wall prior to fitting the board. The link below sells everything that you need and the majority of their business is online so know what they are doing.
    B&Q do Aquadry and Qboard

    Tile Backer Board - Reinforced and Waterproof (pureadhesion.co.uk)
    Sorry I can't think of anything profound, clever or witty to write here.
  • danrv
    danrv Posts: 1,579 Forumite
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    edited 9 September 2021 at 1:58PM
    NSG666 said:
    Hardiebacker or NoMorePly are cement based backer boards that I have used until I discovered Jackoboard / Marmox. I've put a link below to a supplier who does all of the main backer boards just so you can see what there is as it's probably cheaper to buy local. Whatever you use needs fixing with flexible tile adhesive (powder) but I'd use 12mm Jacko or similar as it's lighter and easier to cut and work with.
    I went off NoMorePly as you need to use other products to seal it blah blah blah.
    Use tiler's primer on the wall prior to fitting the board. The link below sells everything that you need and the majority of their business is online so know what they are doing.
    B&Q do Aquadry and Qboard

    Tile Backer Board - Reinforced and Waterproof (pureadhesion.co.uk)


    Thanks.
    Hardiebacker does seems to be quite expensive although my local B@Q has them.
    Jacko 10mm might do ok.

    Alternatively I could skim it as I have loads of plaster and PVA.
  • NSG666
    NSG666 Posts: 981 Forumite
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    If it's flat enough you can use 6mm but read the instructions for how and when to use the different thicknesses.
    Sorry I can't think of anything profound, clever or witty to write here.
  • danrv
    danrv Posts: 1,579 Forumite
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    edited 12 September 2021 at 10:16PM
    NSG666 said:
    danrv said:
    NSG666 said:
    danrv said:
    NSG666 said:
    Ah yes he could have gone right into the corner seeing as has was doing that wall but not the end of the world and the old will probably be better to key to.
    Wish now that I’d asked him to skim over the lot, maybe leaving the breeze block bath area.
    Bath is ready to go in but plumber advised might be an idea to get that bit plastered first as plasterer would probably have to stand in the bath.

    Why do you / your plumber think you need to skim that final strip at this stage as it's going to be covered over anyway? - yes it would have been as well to do it at the same time the rest of the wall was being skimmed but what benefit is it to do it now?

    I think somewhere you said you'd like to practise plastering so if you really do feel the need to skim it there's your ideal spot as it's going to get covered over.

    Have you decided what is going above the bath yet?

    Will the new bath be high enough to be bedded on the plaster or will it be on the breeze?
    Did you ever end up buying any plasterboard adhesive?
    Have you mist coated the plaster yet? Why not?

    Good point. Was working last weekend so short on time.
    Haven’t mist coated yet as I’m not sure where the tiles are going. Making it up as I go along but taking care not to do things in the wrong order.
    I really want them kept to a minimum to save time and effort so only where they’re needed.
    I guess bath shower area and a few over the basin as a splash back would be sufficient.

    Have been recommended this site by someone doing their bathroom.
    PVC slot together panels. Lightweight, waterproof and easy to cut.
    I could skim the wall, put bath in and then fit these.
    Video shows they can be glued, nailed, stapled or screwed to the wall.
    https://bathroomcladdingdirect.co.uk/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIj7mKj5L08gIVQ-7tCh2vjwa_EAAYASAAEgJSU_D_BwE

  • danrv
    danrv Posts: 1,579 Forumite
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    edited 16 September 2021 at 12:22PM
    NSG666 said:
    However, just spotted potential bigger issue - shower electric cable. It's hardly sticking out of the wall, how are you going to connect it? You don't really want to be faffing about extending it with connectors in the shower unit. 
    I contacted Triton Showers about cable terminal positions and ease of connection and they said the replacement for the Ivory 4 would be the Trance 2 or Panache.
    The Trance 2 design is the other way round and cable block is higher and on the right. Not really suitable for the available wiring.
    Panache may be ok.

    The mains water connection I’m hoping will be easy to fit but the wiring does really limit 
    shower choice.
  • NSG666
    NSG666 Posts: 981 Forumite
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    edited 16 September 2021 at 3:32PM
    Yes it's usually easier to fit/adjust the water than the electric. If needs be have a look at Mira's Multi-Fit models, Jump, Sport, Sprint. From memory the electric point is near the top of the unit and can be switched form right to left hand side. That said, if the cable is limiting your choice pull it out and adjust it or run some new from the isolator switch. Better to have found and sorted the issue now rather than when you've finished the wall. Wilko sell it by the metre if necessary.

    Given the rate of progress there's still time to do away with electric and have a nice one running from the combi!
    Sorry I can't think of anything profound, clever or witty to write here.
  • danrv
    danrv Posts: 1,579 Forumite
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    edited 16 September 2021 at 6:31PM
    NSG666 said:
    Given the rate of progress there's still time to do away with electric and have a nice one running from the combi!
    Yes, taking time. Quicker means money that I can’t afford. I have a looming £7k heating installation too.

    Not sure what Combi refers to. I did consider running a shower from the nearby immersion with maybe a pump for pressure.
    Mains cold water pipe is in place now so that decides it really. 

    The cable from wall to isolation switch has been plastered in but I suppose I could break it away and renew cable. It’ll be covered with tiles anyway.
    There’s a fair bit of slack at the isolation switch but I guess that allows for it to be dropped down.

    A new Ivory 4 would wire in ok and the water feed looks like it would need a RH compression adapter as the new pipe just sticks out the wall.

    I’m fitting the bath in soon. At least will have some comfort.

    Old Ivory 4 shower unit:



  • NSG666
    NSG666 Posts: 981 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 500 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    Combi - sorry I must have confused you with someone who posted on MSE asking about electric showers but had a combi. Everyone was saying forget electric and use the combi but they wouldn't.

    Rate of progress - I wasn't having a pop on this occasion, sometimes slowing things down allows you to spot things earlier and make adjustments rather than finishing the job and wishing you'd done something different.

    Don't forget to allow for the thickness of the wall covering for the length of cables.

    IF you need to consider other showers then do look at the Miras as I think you'd be able to chip say 100mm of the plaster off the cable to make it come out of the wall a bit higher and still be able to make the water fit all within the footprint of the shower unit.
    Sorry I can't think of anything profound, clever or witty to write here.
  • danrv
    danrv Posts: 1,579 Forumite
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    edited 17 September 2021 at 9:34AM
    NSG666 said:
    sometimes slowing things down allows you to spot things earlier and make adjustments rather than finishing the job and wishing you'd done something different.
    Thanks. 
    Yes, cheaply and properly and designing it as I go. 
    Quick and expensive I think is the way most go about it, for good reason.
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