Plasterboard for bathroom wall

danrv

NSG666 said:

Edit: When a wall was to dot dabbed using 12.5mm board I used to allow 25 mm from the face of the existing block to the finished face of the plasterboard - just check this won't interfere with your door casing as you might need to drop down to 9.5mm board.

That much gap? Didn’t realize.
There’s 40mm gap to the door but it’s more the electric radiator as it’s 85mm deep if I go with 700w.

stuart45

You could get the plasterer to just plaster the wall. It's what was normally done on houses of that period.

NSG666

danrv said:

NSG666 said:

Edit: When a wall was to dot dabbed using 12.5mm board I used to allow 25 mm from the face of the existing block to the finished face of the plasterboard - just check this won't interfere with your door casing as you might need to drop down to 9.5mm board.

That much gap? Didn’t realize.
There’s 40mm gap to the door but it’s more the electric radiator as it’s 85mm deep if I go with 700w.

The plasterer might be able to get it tighter but he'll have to work to the high point of the wall although they have ways of getting rounds lumps sticking out a long way.
Where I hung towel rads that the door was opening onto I used to try to make the door handle go into a space between the rails rather than hit them (usually possible with a regular towel rad)

Yes trades are busy - my plasterer gave me a 3 week lead time.

Fair point from Stuart45 he could use undercoat and skim which keeps things tighter. The only downside is the drying time but if you are painting walls and hanging the rad yourself you'll have the time to wait.

danrv

stuart45 said:

You could get the plasterer to just plaster the wall. It's what was normally done on houses of that period.

Yes, it was plaster that I took off. It was popping when tapped so thought best take it all off.
The rest of the room is mostly old plaster that can be skimmed over.

While I’m waiting though,I may as well dot & dab the wall. Another plasterer has recommended doing that.
The rest I guess will be skimmed over, including the ceiling.
I assume any kind of splash panelling can be fixed to plaster.

danrv

Worrying thing is that I’m getting used to being without a shower or bath. Been months.

NSG666

I wouldn't bother getting it skimmed where you are fixing the waterproof panelling. Use your left over dri-wall to fill in the void for the shower pipe and cable and patch any holes in the areas to be panelled.

danrv

NSG666 said:

I wouldn't bother getting it skimmed where you are fixing the waterproof panelling. Use your left over dri-wall to fill in the void for the shower pipe and cable and patch any holes in the areas to be panelled.

Thanks.
That area is all good, just patches of old tile adhesive. The rest, including the artex ceiling just needs a skim.
Take it the plasterboard or drywall needs skimming also.

NSG666

danrv said:

Thanks.
That area is all good, just patches of old tile adhesive. The rest, including the artex ceiling just needs a skim.
Take it the plasterboard or drywall needs skimming also.

Yes the plasterboard will need skimming if that area is to be painted. Sorry I refer to the plasterboard adhesive as DriWall but that's Gyproc's name for it.

danrv

NSG666 said:

danrv said:

NSG666 said:

Edit: When a wall was to dot dabbed using 12.5mm board I used to allow 25 mm from the face of the existing block to the finished face of the plasterboard - just check this won't interfere with your door casing as you might need to drop down to 9.5mm board.

That much gap? Didn’t realize.
There’s 40mm gap to the door but it’s more the electric radiator as it’s 85mm deep if I go with 700w.

The plasterer might be able to get it tighter but he'll have to work to the high point of the wall although they have ways of getting rounds lumps sticking out a long way.

Thanks for the help. 
I can’t do any more to get a plasterer so need to get the dot and dab done. One sheet of 2.4m x 1.6m will almost cover it but will do in two sections.
I need to keep it tight due to the door and rad so need minimal gap and maybe 9.5mm board.
Just wondering if that thickness would be ok.

NSG666

danrv said:

NSG666 said:

danrv said:

NSG666 said:

Edit: When a wall was to dot dabbed using 12.5mm board I used to allow 25 mm from the face of the existing block to the finished face of the plasterboard - just check this won't interfere with your door casing as you might need to drop down to 9.5mm board.

That much gap? Didn’t realize.
There’s 40mm gap to the door but it’s more the electric radiator as it’s 85mm deep if I go with 700w.

The plasterer might be able to get it tighter but he'll have to work to the high point of the wall although they have ways of getting rounds lumps sticking out a long way.

Thanks for the help. 
I can’t do any more to get a plasterer so need to get the dot and dab done. One sheet of 2.4m x 1.6m will almost cover it but will do in two sections.
I need to keep it tight due to the door and rad so need minimal gap and maybe 9.5mm board.
Just wondering if that thickness would be ok.

It won't be too thin if that's what you mean. Just use extra blobs of adhesive on it esp in the area of the joint(s).

Hopefully just a typo on your part but a standard board if 2.4 x 1.2