What kind of light is this?

powerful_Rogue

Myser said:

If you have access from above, that makes it much easier.

With the power off, remove the live and neutral from the existing LED driver and wire them directly to the new fitting noting whether an earth connection is also required in the new fitting.

Superb! Thank you.

Probably a silly question, but if the new fittings require an earth, where would the other end go if there isn't an earthing wire there?

EDIT - Just found this:

The second is to fit a double insulated light. A double insulated light, which is also known as a class 2 light, is designed in a way to allow fitting to your electrics without an earth connection.

Myser

You should be able to find an earth wire in the supply cable or existing junction box above the ceiling.  If there isn't, you'll have to choose new fittings that do not require an earth connection.

If you can post a photo of the supply cable to the existing driver and also of the junction box in the ceiling.  You may find that the earth core has been cut short. It's usually bare and not insulated.

powerful_Rogue

Myser said:

You should be able to find an earth wire in the supply cable or existing junction box above the ceiling.  If there isn't, you'll have to choose new fittings that do not require an earth connection.

If you can post a photo of the supply cable to the existing driver and also of the junction box in the ceiling.  You may find that the earth core has been cut short. It's usually bare and not insulated.

When I was up in the loft looking earlier, there was only the live/neutral in the white flex going to each LED Driver. Just had a look online, and quite a lot of double insulated class 2 GU10 downlights available which don't require an earth, so looks like that was an easy fix!

Myser

Yes, many are double insulated.  Make sure you choose a fire rated one to replace what you have already.

You'll probably find an earth connection at the junction where the flexes from the drivers connect in to.

FreeBear

powerful_Rogue said: then I thought i'd look at getting a sonoff mini which I could place in the pull cord housing and have the lights controlled via the pull cord and Home Assistant.

Got Home Assistant running here alongside a few smart switches - Flashed them with Tasmota and using the MQTT integration, it works like a charm.

powerful_Rogue

FreeBear said:

powerful_Rogue said: then I thought i'd look at getting a sonoff mini which I could place in the pull cord housing and have the lights controlled via the pull cord and Home Assistant.

Got Home Assistant running here alongside a few smart switches - Flashed them with Tasmota and using the MQTT integration, it works like a charm.

Most of mine is Philips Hue (didn't know better when I started out!) Although everything is now in HA which has allowed me to start using other brands, especially with Samsung Smart Things as my Zigbee receiver.

Just ordered a Zigbee light switch to control the lights outside. Don't supposed you've used a shelly 1 before? Been looking into that as a way to control to bathroom lights as is, without having to change them over.

FreeBear

powerful_Rogue said: Don't supposed you've used a shelly 1 before? Been looking into that as a way to control to bathroom lights as is, without having to change them over.

Never touched the Shelly devices. That said, it looks like they bring out the programming pins to an easily accessible header, so that saves on soldering wires to the board - Worth reading this and noting the warning - https://tasmota.github.io/docs/devices/Shelly-1/

My experience is with (knock off) Sonoff wall switches and a Sonofff Basic - Aside from needing to do a bit of soldering, I've found them very easy to flash and integrate in to the H.A. system.

powerful_Rogue

FreeBear said:

powerful_Rogue said: Don't supposed you've used a shelly 1 before? Been looking into that as a way to control to bathroom lights as is, without having to change them over.

Never touched the Shelly devices. That said, it looks like they bring out the programming pins to an easily accessible header, so that saves on soldering wires to the board - Worth reading this and noting the warning - https://tasmota.github.io/docs/devices/Shelly-1/

My experience is with (knock off) Sonoff wall switches and a Sonofff Basic - Aside from needing to do a bit of soldering, I've found them very easy to flash and integrate in to the H.A. system.

 I watched a Drzzz's video giving the pros and cons of the Shelly vs Sonoff and he mentioned about the live being connetced to the programming pins. However he says the Shelly devices stock firmware is spot on for HA and doesn't require any flashing.

powerful_Rogue

Just had a look at the pull cord fitting

The black would be an acutal neutral, as opposed to a switched live you get in normal light switches?

Myser

No it's a switched live and should be sleeved brown.

Looks like you have a high current shower pull cord switch used as a light switch!