Rewiring Query FTB

AnotherJoe

FreeBear wrote: »

A garage is classed as an outbuilding - As such, they get damp and anything inside is subjected to condensation. Consumer units along with most domestic electrical equipment, should be kept dry at all times. I for one, would be looking at moving the consumer unit inside if it is practical to do so. If not, consider enclosing the consumer unit in a suitable box.

Wouldn't be the case if it's an internal garage though which by the sound of it, it might be.

eamon

Considering that you will be getting all the rooms replastered then go for the full rewire. Try and future proof as much as you can. More sockets is good, think living room and your gadgets, kitchen & gadgets, shaving point in the bathroom. Also consider CAT6 for your smart TV, Wifi is usually fine but you never know.

buggy_boy

phill99 wrote: »

I think I know what you are saying, but I think you are misleading the OP.


The pendant with the bulb holder wont be earthed. the cable form the bulb holder to the rose is only 2 core. Earthing finishes at the rose and can then be picked up if you retro fit a metal light fitting.

Obviously I meant at the connections, a lot of older properties have just twin not twin and earth, if it is just twin then I would also suspect the lighting back boxes will be of wood construction... The number of times I have seen just twin and then customers have metal light fixings I think its best just to rewire.

Nobody knows how many times in its life a DIY'er has added extra sockets, the number of properties I have seen where there are spurs off spurs, personally I think if your doing that much work then just rewire anyway, even an EICR does not guarantee that the electrics will give you no issues as there is so much that can be hidden that may pass test ok today but cause issues tomorrow, however unlikely, last thing you want to do if you have just plastered walls, put down new carpet, fitted new kitchen is to then get issues.

You can leave the consumer unit in the garage but it is a good idea as someone else said to have a battery backed emergency light, you could take the consumer unit into the house if its easier to run cables and there is a suitable place you want it to be.

If you want to save money you could cut in all the back boxes and cut out all the chases, also after the electrician has run cables you could put bonding plaster over the chases and around the box ready for the plasterer to skim over, this is all time consuming bits that could save you a fair amount if your up to the task.

Newuser0

Thanks another joe, eamon and buggy boy.

My garage is accessible both externally and internally. I’m now just waiting on an electrician to get back to me on Monday.

From my limited understanding, I think the extension which was done by previous owner approx 20-30 years ago was re wired as that part of the house has flush sockets which are raised above the skirting.

However, the rest of the house has sockets directly on the skirting sticking out, if that makes sense lol (apologies for my lack of correct terminology)

I’m swaying more so to the side of taking the plunge and going full re-wire. Just trying to save as much money as possible, as I still need to furnish the whole house! Lol

baldelectrician

Post some photos of the install and we can give an opinion

Make sure the electrician is registered, my advice would be to go for a full scope (not Part P only) company

Call your local council and see if they have a trusted trader scheme

Newuser0

Can I ask what you mean by full scope please? I’ve come across the term part P but not full scope before.

Also, pics of what things would be helpful?

Thanks

baldelectrician

Full scope refers to Approved Contractor

Someone can be qualified to Part P but still not meet the Approved Contractor status

Heres a link to the NICEIC website
http://www.niceic.com/householder/find-a-contractor-results?n=abc

You can see some contractors are listed as Approved Contractor and some are only Part P
The AC is a higher standard- you can do a 5 week course and become Part P, with AC it is very hard to do a short course and pass.

Use a contractor that is both (in England and Wales)

Newuser0

Thank you bald electrician, I’ll look in to that.

Also, in terms of pics on your last comment. What pics would be helpful? Just sockets or?

Thanks

baldelectrician

Pics of the supply area, main cable, cut out and fuse box are good
Plus anything else you think

Newuser0

Here’s a few more pics. Didn’t know what to take exactly so took whatever I thought was good lol

I’ve also been given a quote for a full rewire which I’ll mention on another comment.