Free Personal Plumbing Info.

ceebee_2

nrobinson wrote:

Just to answer a previous persons question, because I had the same confusion - I believe the difference between an electric and power shower is:

Electric shower - single mains cold feed and is heated by the unit

Power shower - this type needs cold water cistern and a hot water cylinder feed

So in our place I know we need an electric shower - now I was intending to wire and plumb this myself having done it before when replacing an older unit in a previous house. However I was recently told that this job now has to be donw by a corgi registered engineer. Is this correct? Is it worth me fitting the installation and just getting it checked over by a corgi eng?

Ian, thanks for your time and this is a great idea!

My understanding is that a CORGI registered engineer is required to certify the correctness of any installation involving natural GAS (and associated flue & fresh combustion air).
My understanding of Part P of the building regulations is that
It relates to electrical works in a domestic building.
An electrical shower installation would come within the scope of Part P.
The work can be done by an electrician certified to undertake such work.
You can do the work yourself but you must notify Building Control (Local Council) before starting any work and subsequently on completion so that Building Control can sign it off. There will, of course, be a charge for this.

I have kept a number of articles, published by the trade press, which I would be happy to share with any interested party, but it would have to be by Fax.

I"m a retired electrical engineer still struggling with this new fangled gear (computer) so please don"t swamp me with communication technicalities.!!!!!!

poll72

buy a high pressure shower suitable for a combi but you will have to run a hot and cold feed to it, but you will get a powerful shower

poll72

its the central part of your toilet, go to your local suppliers and ask for a replacement syphon. If your tank is connected to your toilet you will have to disconnct it and remove the centre piece and then reverse the process to reinstall it.

poll72

the only thing i find helps is to place rubber or cardboard under every pipe that touches the wood, it will be a hassle but that is your only cure really

poll72

replace the pressure relief value the boiler has a safety cut out inside

poll72

under the disc on top there is a screw flick off the disc with a flat blade,

poll72

you have a air lock inside the pipework try running your heating on the highest temp setting, it may shift it.See if you have an air vent like a radiator vent in your airing cupboard.

poll72

sounds like the cold water is close to heating pipes thus warming the cold the only things you can do is repipe the cold away from the heat source.or insulate the cold pipe. where you would find the promblem is trace from the main to the promblem tap

Parky

plumb1 wrote:

It could be the tap,the brass jumper(the part that hold the washer) could have slipped down on it thread. I would try this first,as it a a commaon problem with modern taps.

Thankyou Plumb1, how would I go about fixing that? :j

plumb1_2

Parky wrote:

Thankyou Plumb1, how would I go about fixing that? :j

turn off the water supplies,and open any taps you have below(kitchen) to drain the water out.
Then take the head off the tap,unscrew the tap body from the tap,and you will be able to see if the jumper has dropped they work on a left handed thread.
If you take the other tap thats ok, off as well you will see if the is any difference,hope you understand this.
quicker for me to do it than try to explain:D