What size engine do i need?

BykerSands

Tcrumpen wrote: »

It's more like £386 but i rounded it up

Your doing well then, no extras on the policy like protected no claims, passing your test at 17 and having five years no claims and a voluntary excess of £500. Living in one of the lowest insurance postcode areas in the country. Compare the market tells me Admiral won't insure a 23 year old for less than £400 in that car.

Tcrumpen

BykerSands wrote: »

Your doing well then, no extras on the policy like protected no claims, passing your test at 17 and having five years no claims and a voluntary excess of £500. Living in one of the lowest insurance postcode areas in the country. Compare the market tells me Admiral won't insure a 23 year old for less than £400 in that car.

I have 4 years protected NCB, i believe i do have £300 excess, have pass plus, passed at 17. This is on my Aygo that is

boliston

Tcrumpen wrote: »

Hello there, i'm seeking some car advice help.

I currently have a Toyota Aygo 1L and although the car itself is fine, i've just started a job which requires me to be driving a fair bit on dual carriageways and motorways, i've noticed that once my car gets to about 55mph i have to floor it a bit in order to get acceleration.....

Surely it's SINGLE carriageways where acceleration is needed the most as on d/c mway you have much more time to plan overtakes and there is no oncoming traffic to worry about. I drive a C1 stop/start a fair bit on mways and it cruises fine at 70mph (about 74mph on speedo) but the main thing is to plan lane changes well in advance to avoid ever getting boxed in behind something slow like an HGV.

Tcrumpen

boliston wrote: »

Surely it's SINGLE carriageways where acceleration is needed the most as on d/c mway you have much more time to plan overtakes and there is no oncoming traffic to worry about. I drive a C1 stop/start a fair bit on mways and it cruises fine at 70mph (about 74mph on speedo) but the main thing is to plan lane changes well in advance to avoid ever getting boxed in behind something slow like an HGV.

When travelling in rush hour traffic, that kinda thing becomes harder to do

BykerSands

Tcrumpen wrote: »

I have 4 years protected NCB, i believe i do have £300 excess, have pass plus, passed at 17. This is on my Aygo that is

Well a 1.6 V40 Volvo will only be a shade over £900 so you're doing ok. Providing you continue to live a the cheapest insurance area in England.

Tcrumpen

BykerSands wrote: »

Well a 1.6 V40 Volvo will only be a shade over £900 so you're doing ok. Providing you continue to live a the cheapest insurance area in England.

That isn't too bad, i'll be moving to a city so chances are it'll go over a thousand - assuming i go for a Volvo of course, might decide to go for a Mazda 3 which i've been looking at

mark55man

I concur with people to get a little more use out of your current car whilst saving the expenses - at 45p a mile 70 mph is about £30p/h, or about £345 a week

Tax on car mileage is complex depending on what your employer pays, where you are driving to etc. But worth having a look on HMRC. Although broadly if the company pays it they would normally have an agreement with HMRC unless they are small

Personally, I would drive 10000 miles in your current car (grin and bear it) as after 10000 miles HMRC only allow you 25p per mile, and 10000 miles will give you about £3000 deposit.

Also Personally the Vauxhall Astra Excite 1.4 (yes really) is usually on sale new at about 30% off - to me this takes the sting out of the immediate depreciation, and its a dull car but £12K is not dear and when you sell it 3 years at 90K miles - it will be 10p per mile for depreciation, 12p per mile for petrol and 10p for other costs. ie about level

EDIT - Remember new tax year in April so may be as well to save up until June if you old car would take it

BykerSands

Tcrumpen wrote: »

That isn't too bad, i'll be moving to a city so chances are it'll go over a thousand - assuming i go for a Volvo of course, might decide to go for a Mazda 3 which i've been looking at

Like I said that's on one of the cheapest postcodes, a city is over £2200.

Your Mazda 3 will be over £2500.

You need to work this out based on any move you plan and against your new occupation.

morg_2

If it's any help to you I drive about 35k a year mainly nearly all business and commute. I have just secured a personal lease deal on a Hyundai i30 1.6 diesel over 2 years ( 3+23) for 225 inc vat a month on a 35k a year deal. Not as expensive as people are making out.

I had/have the option to buy but I don't want to own a two year old car with at least 70k mileage on it and the depreciation would be horrid on it because of that so at 2 years I hand back and reconsider my options. I also discounted a 2nd hand car as driving that kind of mileage and being that reliant on my car for work I cannot afford any hint of unreliability. A new car comes with a warranty and if it breaks down I get a dealer replacement during repair.

The car is white goods to me and I chose the i30 because at the moment on lease deals it was coming up as a great deal compared to its rivals e.g focus/astra/golf/civic etc - I've also had a fleet i30 in the past so know how it drives, but I looked without any particular brand in mind quite clinically to just get a 'tool' to enable me to do my job with the least hassle.

The dealer said they are being heavily discounted at the moment to get brand saturation, i take it with a pinch of salt but for a 35k miles a year deal thats pretty cheap by anyones standards - factor in 3 services at a fixed price (20k service schedule) and one whole set of new tyres during my ownership and the jobs a good one !

Everybody's needs are different but good luck with whatever you choose.

Orangezorki

Engine size was a useful indicator of performance and capability in the old days where everyone drove naturally aspirated petrol car.

But now, with turbos, diesel, hybrids etc, the actual displacement of the engine block means next to nothing. Look around and you will see many ranges with different engine powers with the same block, and even with some cheaper cars the entry level with come with a basic 4-cylinder, but higher cost versions will have smaller 3-cylinder turbo engines that make more power and use less fuel. Kia is a prime example of this. My Yaris hybrid has a 1.5 litre engine, but the acceleration is a world away from the 1.4L TFSI engines in the small VW group hot hatches.

Ultimately, any car made in the past 10+ years and in decent condition is perfectly capable of cruising at 70mph all day long. I've done it in a diesel smart car and that had a 600cc engine. Look for a car you can afford, test drive a few, do the sums and be happy with your choice.