Nuaire Drimaster location

richardc1983

Janeyfs wrote: »

Thankyou, your set up sounds interesting as I am also concerned with indoor air quality and, in this house, the thought of mold spores amongst other things, is a worry at present. In terms of running costs do you find it more cost effective than the nuaire because you're not using an electric heater, and presumably the air is also warmed more effectively or does the more powerful fan make it more expensive to run? Is your system in the loft but ducted to the outside?
TIA

The water coil is more cost effective at heating the air and you actually get warm air blowing out the vent. With the nuaire heater air would be coming in at 18c if it was 8c outside.

The fan itself moves more air than the nuaire which is great for summer but I can throttle it back to the same output as the nuaire. It's an EC motor in both products which is the most efficient motor currently. The nuaire uses about 24watts per hour when on full fan speed whereas the fan I got from system uses about 50watts as I set it at that.

The system is in the loft but ducted through the gable end to a grill. Have a look at systemair UK website there's lots of stuff on there too.

Your best off adding up cost of components separetly and then an all in one kit like nuaire Vs install of both then deciding what you want to do. I spent a lot of money on the nuaire then sold it on, it's a fantastic piece of kit but I wanted to do more at home such as heat the landing and have more airflow in summer as the nuaire that hangs in the loft pumps in hot air from the loft in summer unless you have the setting set so that it turns off but then you get no air filtration. Their Noxmaster seems good though and you would just need a heater unit. My water coil is piped in and I have a TRV on the landing that I can control the output from it with.

honizz

Can these just be put into a house and thats it or do I need to make sure I have gaps under doors etc?

Thanks

richardc1983

honizz wrote: »

Can these just be put into a house and thats it or do I need to make sure I have gaps under doors etc?

Thanks

If you don't have gaps under the doors leaving doors ajar is enough.

honizz

Thanks you for your reply.

Unfortunately, it is a shared rented house and each tenant has a locked fire door.

Any suggestions would be appreciated

Thanks

richardc1983

honizz wrote: »

Thanks you for your reply.

Unfortunately, it is a shared rented house and each tenant has a locked fire door.

Any suggestions would be appreciated

Thanks

Do you have an attic or loft space In your flat? If you have trickle vents in your windows that will be enough there are plenty of natural air gaps in a building and air bricks etc. Nothing is air tight.

happypie

Hi guys,

I am planning to buy this PIV unit.

They have a unit with RF enabled which means if you buy additional Drimaster Humidity Sensor then sensor will send signal to PIV unit and that unit will increase or decrease fan speed based on humidity.

I am confused if i shall go for this advanced unit. Cost wise PIV unit is about 20 pounds more. HEAT HCS is without RF enabled and HEAT HC is RF enabled.
sensor is costing about 85 pounds.

so overall about 100 pounds more for this functionality.

Do you guys think its worth it? will it save any electricity in long run? or will it have any functional benefits like humidity doesn't go too low if i run PIV on full speed 24/7.

what do you guys think?

thanks.

richardc1983

happypie wrote: »

Hi guys,

I am planning to buy this PIV unit.

They have a unit with RF enabled which means if you buy additional Drimaster Humidity Sensor then sensor will send signal to PIV unit and that unit will increase or decrease fan speed based on humidity.

I am confused if i shall go for this advanced unit. Cost wise PIV unit is about 20 pounds more. HEAT HCS is without RF enabled and HEAT HC is RF enabled.
sensor is costing about 85 pounds.

so overall 100 pounds more for this functionality.

Do you guys think its worth it? will it save any electricity in long run? or will it have any functional benefits like humidity doesn't go too low if i run PIV on full speed 24/7.

what do you guys think?

thanks.

Go for the one that has the RF link that enables you to boost the fan speed via the controller for a short time when showering or cooking etc.

NOt sure you would need it for humidity as it does a good job of controlling humidity a week or two after running on high.

happypie

thanks Richard.

so do you mean instead of humidity sensor i shall buy a remote which can be used to boost fan speed.

but isn't fan speed can be boosted from fan? i am planning to go for hall control unit. while i understand having a remote will be much more convenient but that remote is about 50 pounds.

also wouldn't sensor should detect that there is high humidity after shower and does that boost automatically?

thanks again.

richardc1983

happypie wrote: »

thanks Richard.

so do you mean instead of humidity sensor i shall buy a remote which can be used to boost fan speed.

but isn't fan speed can be boosted from fan? i am planning to go for hall control unit. while i understand having a remote will be much more convenient but that remote is about 50 pounds.

also wouldn't sensor should detect that there is high humidity after shower and does that boost automatically?

thanks again.

We find with the bathroom fan on the humidity doesn't really build up after a shower
We use boost mainly for a ventilation purge of the house or when cooking to rid house of smells. Can you post a link to the one you're thinking of going for?

happypie

PIV:

https://www.nuaire.co.uk/residential/positive-input-ventilation-piv/dri-eco-heat-hc

Sensor:

https://www.nuaire.co.uk/residential/ducting-supplies-and-ancillaries/dri-eco-rh