Nuaire Drimaster location

yuwaret

Hi Richard

Thanks for your help!

I think I will start with the extractors then and if they are not enough, I can use the same cored hole in the kitchen wall for the Drimaster intake.

Can you suggest an extractor with the humidistat for the kitchen? I note you say the extractor hood would be better but I think my tenants would probably turn these off or forget to use them.

I need something that will just work away until the condensation is gone as per the bathroom one you suggested.

The kitchens are not huge, just ex local authority standard sizes if there is such a thing.

Cheers

richardc1983

Look up the Nuair Cyfan. This can be configured with run on timer or with humidistat settings and you can have an airflow of upto 60l/s which is selected via a dial. So this fan suitsble for bathroom or kitchen use. As comparison the fan above I linked to earlier was 24l/s approx.

debtfreeoneday

We ran the dehumifier for one day and it collected less than 1cm of water whereas normally it is full.. having had the drimaster in for a month now, I've settled the bill and I'm a happy person.. the black patches have turned grey and literally wiped off.. we have redecorated where they were and it hasn't reappeared. the whole place feels 'drier' and I'm amazed.

We have the unit with the heater - I'm not sure what setting it is at.. we did also have the extractor fan upgraded at the same time in the bathroom..

yuwaret

Hey

Good to hear it has been effective!

I am currently installing the humidistats in the kitchens and bathrooms but if this doesn't work, I will give the flatmaster a try. I wanted to fit these in place of the extractors only but am concerned tenants will turn them off assuming they are costing a fortune to run.

There are mixed messages from Nuiare regarding running costs with heat versions and it would be nice to know what they really are from an end user. If you have the time, please post your view on running costs as they are learned.

Thanks

richardc1983

I think I have posted elsewhere running costs with heater. It's a very small heater and pulses off and on very quickly to maintain the set point you choose between 10&20c mines set at 14c. So will only come on if loft is below that temp. Even when it's very cold out and the heater spends most it's time on you need to work out what 500w costs per hour on your tariff of electric. Easiest way to do it is find or what 1kwh costs then you have 2 hours usage in worst case scenario where the heater may be working flat out to maintain that set point. It isn't heating the house just the incoming air so that it doesn't feel so cold, it still feels cool even at 14c but it's fine.

We have ours on a timer set to do 6-8am on a morning then evening 5-10pm. If we are home all day I control the timer from my phone via a wifi so I can override the timer if need be. Presently with my settings above and my electric is 12p a kWh it costs 42p a day if the heater was running flat out at 500w. You can work that out yourself if you want more hours or less hours. The heater doesn't improve performance it just makes it more pleasant on the landing rather than too fresh. That running cost when you consider how ineffective a dehumidifer is, plus the costs of building structure damage caused by damp etc is minimal. Plus you have clean fresh filtered air circulating your home it just feels much more pleasant.

yuwaret

Thanks for the info!

I was looking at the flatmaster 2000 which does not go into the attic therefore I believe the air coming in is likely to be colder. However, this is a good guide and your input appreciated.

I would definitely have it warmer than 14 personally and pay the extra to have the house at least 20 assuming it goes that high.

Back to tenants though, who would probably love the 20 plus but not want to pay for the running even if it saved them money on other heating.

richardc1983

yuwaret wrote: »

Thanks for the info!

I was looking at the flatmaster 2000 which does not go into the attic therefore I believe the air coming in is likely to be colder. However, this is a good guide and your input appreciated.

I would definitely have it warmer than 14 personally and pay the extra to have the house at least 20 assuming it goes that high.

Back to tenants though, who would probably love the 20 plus but not want to pay for the running even if it saved them money on other heating.

Any reason your going for the flat master? Is it a flat your installing in? It's a very small heater like I say if the loft gets to about 2/3c it struggles and even though set at 14c sometimes it can be about 11/12c as it then struggles to heat the air up. The point is your not getting freezing cold blast of air at 2c coming into the house without it. You don't need it set at 20c there would be no point, your not doing it to heat the house, that's what your heating is for. You would happily have your windows open early spring when it gets to 14/15c outside - think of it as the same.

yuwaret

Yes, it is a flat with someone above!

I think I will wait to see if the extractors do the job as the tenants would disconnect this flatmaster if they felt cold air coming in.
They already block up the vents which is probably causing the issue in the first place - I have asked them to unblock the vents but they don't as there is a draft.

Can't win!

pd001

yuwaret wrote: »

Yes, it is a flat with someone above!

I think I will wait to see if the extractors do the job as the tenants would disconnect this flatmaster if they felt cold air coming in.
They already block up the vents which is probably causing the issue in the first place - I have asked them to unblock the vents but they don't as there is a draft.

Can't win!

My daughter has a similar problem with a tenant.
That tenant uses a portable gas fire which, according to the property insurers, is strictly forbidden. My daughter has politely requested that they stop using it and remove it from the property.

The letting agents have, upon instructions from my daughter, issued a written request to the tenant that they stop using the portable gas fire.

The tenant still uses that gas fire because they have some sort of 'deal' with a bottled gas supplier that provides then with very cheap (maybe even free) bottled gas.

My daughter is thinking about terminating the letting agreement. She hasn't reached a decision yet because at the end of the day, that tenant is not a 'bad' tenant.
She has had previous tenants that have been far worse then her current tenant.
Another 'Cant win!' situation.

yuwaret

I would probably just leave the tenant in there if there is no major damage getting done. Voids and repairs to get it back on the market, only to find out the next tenant is worse can be expensive.
Better the devil you know!