windscreen steaming up

bob_a_builder

don't forget to check the boot !
Any leaks in that area can build up in spare wheel area or boot lining
(was a known problem on Honda Jazz of a certain era)

pothole50

Heres a tip that works for me, use fairy liquid, put it on a microfibre cloth neat and just wipe it on the inside windows but dont wipe if off, it leaves a film which does not steam up, classic mini trick.

knightstyle

Buy some anti-fog liquid, look on Amazon. It works, we used it on all the windows of our old Escort which was always fogging up.

Iceweasel

knightstyle wrote: »

Buy some anti-fog liquid, look on Amazon. It works, we used it on all the windows of our old Escort which was always fogging up.

That was what we all did in old Escorts with no AC or Climate Control. :rotfl:

reeac

TrickyWicky wrote: »

I think Volvo are pretty well respected for their engineering and engines.

So, would you care to tell me why why i turn on my AC, engine revs drop momentarily until the ECU kicks in?

It's a 2.4 20v engine so that pretty well counters your statement.

Of course we all understand that A/C uses energy and therefore fuel but the queston is how much. Years ago I had a Jag. XJ6 4.0 with A/C and a fuel computer and at that time I was doing quite a lot of 135 mile journeys between Berkshire and Suffolk. I tried on several occasions to detect the effects of A/C on fuel consumption by doing a complete trip with and without A/C but couldn't get any consistent results so I concluded that it was a small effect compared with other factors such as traffic density. The latter effect was that with moderate traffic density [enough to slightly hamper progress but not lead to jams] the lower speed led to more mpg.

accidentalspender

One thing I couldn't see listed above: the inside of all the windows in your car will get dirty (for want of a better word) over time. There are probably MSE threads for cheaply & effectively cleaning windows, however I use Screenies & find them very good (about £2 a pack, widely available, other brands exist).
Microscopic dirt particles on glass can act as condensation nuclei, basically giving condensation a kick-start.

To add my (1 million miles of) experience to the sub-thread that seems to have developed; I track my MPG without being too OCD about it, & I've never noticed a difference between AC on/off. A slight drag is occasionally noticeable as the clutch engages but that's it really. I'm sure there is a difference under lab conditions, but I've never noticed it. What I have noticed is that, as AC becomes more prevalent, the standard of ventilation designed into cars seems to have got lower - as if the manufacturers are depending on the AC for demisting. All well & good while it works efficiently for the first few years of the car's life (modern AC condensers, etc. are also being made thinner to save weight & cost, so they won't be lasting very long).

Anyway, back on-topic, I'd advise;
1) Keep the windows clean
2) Pollen filter, as mentioned above
3) After a drive, the air in your car will be warmer than the air outside. Warm air holds a great deal more water than cold air. If you just jump out & close the car you'll trap that warm air along with its moisture, & as it cools it'll condense on your windows (like on a drink can on a warm day). This point is also mentioned above.
4) If you've got (working) AC, use it. I don't see the point in maybe saving 20p & risking an accident where, if you're lucky, the only cost will be financial. (In the least preachy way possible)
5) Any of the methods mentioned for absorbing water will probably help your cause.

Hope this helps.

AdrianC

closed wrote: »

Aircon uses electricity.

Very little. Most of the load of aircon on a car engine is mechanical load. Electricity merely locks the clutch on the belt-driven compressor. Yes, the compressor is a load to be driven - but at anything other than high speed, the car's engine is delivering far less power than it is capable of, and low loads tend to be less efficient than higher loads, so adding a bit of extra load doesn't necessarily increase fuel consumption significantly - whilst, at high speeds, the aircon almost certainly consumes less power than the extra drag from opening windows.

Not using aircon for extended periods causes the seals to dry out and the refrigerant to escape - at best, a regas needed; at worst, a compressor rebuild or just plain dead aircon with a hit on resale value.

Either way, any extra fuel consumption is less than that caused by driving erratically because you're trying to peer out of a letterbox, a chunk cheaper than a regas, and a damn sight less than the insurance excess from driving into something you didn't see.

You don't really need aircon to demist, just some minimal airflow and or heat

You don't _need_ aircon to demist, no. But it will demist far more quickly and efficiently, because - as has already been said - it dries the incoming air. That air is cooled, yes, but can easily then be heated - so you end up with warm, dry air. Perfect for demisting.

Winter's when aircon's most useful in the UK.

closed

AdrianC wrote: »

Very little.

.

etc.

Shame you didn't quote the rest of the paragraph when trying to pull it apart, from your response it seems that you don't fully understand that anything that uses electricity or any type of energy, uses fuel.

One wipe with a cloth followed by a blast of air, preferably hot, clears windows very quickly.

RichardD1970

Never noticed any discernible drop in MPG when using AC either in the summer for cooling or winter for de-misting.

AdrianC

closed wrote: »

Shame you didn't quote the rest of the paragraph when trying to pull it apart, from your response it seems that you don't fully understand that anything that uses electricity or any type of energy, uses fuel.

It seems to be write-only night tonight...