Does neutering male dog stop him pulling on lead?

spacey2012

Take charge of the walk from the dog.
Set a fixed time to complete the walk, say 30 minutes.
Ignore any distance or routes as irrelevant.
Every time the Dog pulls, stop walking and count to 30, do its many times as neccasary, when the dog stops pulling walk normally, soon as he pulls again stop for another 30 seconds.
When the fixed time is up, turn around and start back home.
If the dog only gets 10 feet from the gate, that's his problem, he was he one wanting to get where you were going.

This is what a local boarding Kennel does and customers are amazed that after returning for two weeks, they have a dog that does not pull any more.

The only type of dog it does not work on apparently is Springer Spaniels as they are just nuts.

Bluemeanie_2

My dog has always pulled terribly. I bought a body harness that was next to useless and then just put up with it. I made a casual comment in a baby related forum about struggling to walk my dog and push a buggy at the same time so was looking to buy a sling. Someone told me that a "snout harness" thing is the only thing they new that worked. (Think they are called halti's?). I bought one from Pets At Home about two weeks ago and it is amazing. She stopped pulling instantly. We had a few stand offs, she would pull a bit, realise she couldn't then shake her head then walk nicely. I've been reinforcing this by saying certain words. Now she walks nicely on a collar, and when she starts to pull, I say the word, which is a warning she'll go on the snout harness if she doesn't behave. If she doesn't stop it she goes on the harness for the walk. It's slowly working!

Kinski

Paradigm wrote: »

And the dog should demand re-attachment

Here you go http://www.neuticles.com/ :rotfl::rotfl::rotfl:

catkins

spacey2012 wrote: »

Take charge of the walk from the dog.
Set a fixed time to complete the walk, say 30 minutes.
Ignore any distance or routes as irrelevant.
Every time the Dog pulls, stop walking and count to 30, do its many times as neccasary, when the dog stops pulling walk normally, soon as he pulls again stop for another 30 seconds.
When the fixed time is up, turn around and start back home.
If the dog only gets 10 feet from the gate, that's his problem, he was he one wanting to get where you were going.

This is what a local boarding Kennel does and customers are amazed that after returning for two weeks, they have a dog that does not pull any more.

The only type of dog it does not work on apparently is Springer Spaniels as they are just nuts.

I tried this with my dog but it didn't work. He didn't seem bothered that we didn't get anywhere. He was out and even when we were stopped he was wagging his tail and happy!

I found a harness with a double ended lead which clips on a ring on the back of the dog and a ring on the dog's chest to work.

Bluemeanie wrote: »

My dog has always pulled terribly. I bought a body harness that was next to useless and then just put up with it. I made a casual comment in a baby related forum about struggling to walk my dog and push a buggy at the same time so was looking to buy a sling. Someone told me that a "snout harness" thing is the only thing they new that worked. (Think they are called halti's?). I bought one from Pets At Home about two weeks ago and it is amazing. She stopped pulling instantly. We had a few stand offs, she would pull a bit, realise she couldn't then shake her head then walk nicely. I've been reinforcing this by saying certain words. Now she walks nicely on a collar, and when she starts to pull, I say the word, which is a warning she'll go on the snout harness if she doesn't behave. If she doesn't stop it she goes on the harness for the walk. It's slowly working!

A lot of dogs don't like halti's. Some are scared of them, sometimes they can rub a dog's nose and for some breed of dogs they are just not suitable.

A harness with a double ended lead is a much better solution. Mine is made by Xtradog but I believe there are other makes

JencParker

Neutering will not stop your dog pulling - only training will.

I would recommend going to training classes or a 1-2-1 with a good trainer and learn how to teach him. However, training classes are not for teaching your dog, so attendance alone will not help. A training class teaches YOU how to train your dog so it will be the training you do at home (and EVERY time you take him out that will make the difference).

Unfortunately, you have taught him to pull (albeit unwittingly), so it will take more work than if you started him as a puppy, however, it is not difficult, it is just time consuming and requires consistency and effort - EVERY time you take him out.

Have a look here for a local trainer.

http://www.apdt.co.uk/dog-owners/local-dog-trainers

Oh, and change your vet - I've never heard such ridiculous advice. To put him though an unnecessary operation (and the risks that that includes) is outrageous. I will say though, that vets have very limited knowledge (if any) about training/behaviour.

JencParker

spacey2012 wrote: »

Take charge of the walk from the dog.
Set a fixed time to complete the walk, say 30 minutes.
Ignore any distance or routes as irrelevant.
Every time the Dog pulls, stop walking and count to 30, do its many times as neccasary, when the dog stops pulling walk normally, soon as he pulls again stop for another 30 seconds.
When the fixed time is up, turn around and start back home.
If the dog only gets 10 feet from the gate, that's his problem, he was he one wanting to get where you were going.

This is what a local boarding Kennel does and customers are amazed that after returning for two weeks, they have a dog that does not pull any more.

The only type of dog it does not work on apparently is Springer Spaniels as they are just nuts.

Ha ha - well you know the gundog saying -

"Labradors are born half trained - spaniels die half trained!"

I would do similar, however, in addition to stopping, I would also be changing direction. As soon as he starts pulling, then change and walk in the opposite direction.

The problem is that once a dog has been taught to pull (and allowing them to pull as a puppy is teaching them the can pull) then it is likely to get worse before it gets better (extinction burst), so it will take effort and consistency and may mean his walks consist of going 10 yards down the road at first.

ariba10

A Choker chain always worked with mine.

After a reasonably short time it is not needed.

(Now is the time for all frustrated female dog owners to get upset)

JencParker

ariba10 wrote: »

A Choker chain always worked with mine.

After a reasonably short time it is not needed.

(Now is the time for all frustrated female dog owners to get upset)

A choke chain isn't needed - ALL that is needed is proper training. To many allow a young puppy to pull as they are not strong and don't pull hard. If you train a puppy from day one, you will not get a dog pulling, but if you allow a puppy to pull you have taught your dog to pull. And you should never use a choke chain on a puppy or a dog that pulls. I use slip leads, but would never use one on a puppy. In spite of it's name, a choke lead is not supposed to choke the dog and the handler should know how to use one.

-F*Dragonfly-

Training - persistence and a good head collar (we have the Halti) is what we use for our dog who used to pull like mad when going out but was fine coming home, collar didn't work and on a harness he was even worse, we put the head collar on and he walked down the street beautifully, training still needed but at least the dog wouldn't be pulling your arms out of the sockets in the meantime.

Celli

ariba10 wrote: »

A Choker chain always worked with mine.

After a reasonably short time it is not needed.

(Now is the time for all frustrated female dog owners to get upset)

I do love your posts in the pet section, always good for a chuckle :rotfl: