Register plate fitment

lagi

Looking at a view guides and videos to get an idea of whats required.

Looking at my fireplace, it has been widened where the stove will sit.

All the installs i have seen bolt up inside. So the register plate fits into the hole. As mine has been widened i have an outer edge of brick all round the bottom of the opening (except the back wall), so wondered could i cut it too that dimension and fix it that way?

muckybutt

lagi wrote: »

Looking at a view guides and videos to get an idea of whats required.

Looking at my fireplace, it has been widened where the stove will sit.

All the installs i have seen bolt up inside. So the register plate fits into the hole. As mine has been widened i have an outer edge of brick all round the bottom of the opening (except the back wall), so wondered could i cut it too that dimension and fix it that way?

That should be fine, however seal the inner edge with high temp flue sealant to ensure a good gas tight airseal for a correct burn.

lagi

Thanks again, what would be best way to fix this? Should i use an angle piece along the back as you would do an original install?

muckybutt

You could use angle iron and fix to that or if the register plate is thick enough fix that direct to the protruding brickwork.

lagi

Plate is 1.5mm galvanised. But how or what would i use to fix to the plate to the protruding brickwork? If this is thick enough.

muckybutt

Just screw and wall plugs will suffice, but remember to seal around the edges with high temp sealant as well, thats all mine it fixed up with.

Man_Overboard_2

The most important feature of any register plate is that the sweep will be able to clear it of soot and tar! A sweep's vacuum will not be able to pull quantities of deposits across a foot or two of empty space - the sweep needs to be able to reach into every corner.

The purpose of a register plate is slightly debatable. I had a conversation once with an insurance underwriter who specialised in insuring thatched properties (which are usually also very old!). His biggest nightmare was a woodburning stove below a tightly sealed register plate. He was of the opinion that the flue temperatures in such a case were likely to get so high that the thatch was likely to spontaneously combust due to its close proximity to such high temperatures, given the age and porosity of the brick-built chimney flue. He much preferred an open fire, or a stove with no register plate, because in those situations a large proportion of the air enters the flue after passing over the fire without being superheated by passing through the fire.

Some chimneys 'work', and some chimneys don't - 'twas ever thus (that's why people were so glad to be able to switch over to gas or electric). The installation of a stove will not make a chimney work any better or worse than it always worked. But if a chimney does not work particularly well, then a stove under a tightly sealed register plate, may possibly be able to limit the smoky effects of an occasional downdraught.

lagi

Sounds good, just measured the actual opening and i can only go for one with a centre hole for the liner, there won't be room for a cleaning hatch type.

As there is a concrete lintel across the front opening, any tips for getting fixings into that part?

Mister_G

lagi wrote: »

Sounds good, just measured the actual opening and i can only go for one with a centre hole for the liner, there won't be room for a cleaning hatch type.

As there is a concrete lintel across the front opening, any tips for getting fixings into that part?

If you are putting in a liner, then surely there will not be a need to access the top of the register plate for sweeping, as there shouldn't be any soot there. My stove is installed like that, with liner, and the sweep just sweeps it through the stove. In your case, I assume that he would sweep through the bottom of the T piece.

As regards to getting a fixing into the concrete lintel, I suggest a nice new masonry drill bit and, ideally, an SDS drill. Your worst problem will be the steel reinforcing bars in the lintel. If you hit one of these, then you can normally get round it by drilling another hole a little way away from it. Looks messy, but I'm sure that the register plate will hide it!

muckybutt

lagi wrote: »

Sounds good, just measured the actual opening and i can only go for one with a centre hole for the liner, there won't be room for a cleaning hatch type.

As there is a concrete lintel across the front opening, any tips for getting fixings into that part?

I think MOB was under the impression that you were not having a liner fitted.

There is no requirement for an access plate in a register plate when fitting a liner, as you say you can either sweep from the rear through the bottom of the T piece or straight access panel or through the top of the stove if it was to be a top entry.

lagi

I wasn't sure, but am ordering one without a hatch.

Slightly confused now as i spoke to someone last night who told me there stove pipe goes through the hole in the register plate to the other side where it joins to the liner. Apparently there is no seal where the stove pipe goes through register plate.

I have bought an increasing adapter 125mm stove pipe to 155mm flex. I though this adapter sat 50/50 in the register plate, so the stove pipe would sit one side of the plate and the liner the other.

Am i wrong, or can it be done both ways?
Reason being as i am not ordering the stove pipe yet because i thought i needed an accurate measurement for it to fit into place.

(The stove has a 5" outlet and the liner is 6")