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Register plate fitment

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24

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  • lagi
    lagi Posts: 590 Forumite
    From what i can gather from searching, i can cut the stove pipe down. So am going to order a slightly longer length to cover both possibilities.
  • muckybutt wrote: »
    I think MOB was under the impression that you were not having a liner fitted

    If the stove is to be attached to a flue liner, then a register plate is completely redundant, except to catch the bits of dust and debris which will inevitably settle over a period of years.

    Any register plate which you might choose to fit certainly doesn't need to be airtight - if you do make it airtight, then you might increase the risk of 'damp' during the time when the stove is not in use.
  • w50nky
    w50nky Posts: 418 Forumite
    lagi wrote: »
    I wasn't sure, but am ordering one without a hatch.

    Slightly confused now as i spoke to someone last night who told me there stove pipe goes through the hole in the register plate to the other side where it joins to the liner. Apparently there is no seal where the stove pipe goes through register plate.

    I have bought an increasing adapter 125mm stove pipe to 155mm flex. I though this adapter sat 50/50 in the register plate, so the stove pipe would sit one side of the plate and the liner the other.

    Am i wrong, or can it be done both ways?
    Reason being as i am not ordering the stove pipe yet because i thought i needed an accurate measurement for it to fit into place.

    (The stove has a 5" outlet and the liner is 6")

    Good info on this site which may help.

    http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/lining_a_chimney.html

    You will need a register plate even with a liner, if you intend to insulate with mica or vermiculite. You can seal your register plate/stove pipe joint with high temp cement/sealant. Something like this.

    http://www.ncc-flue.co.uk/sealants-and-tools/fire-sealants/black-high-temperature-silicone-310ml-tube.html
    If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you! :dance:
  • w50nky wrote: »
    You will need a register plate even with a liner, if you intend to insulate with mica or vermiculite

    A twin skin liner includes it's own mica/vermiculite, a single skin liner is not suitable for any kind of solid fuel
  • lagi
    lagi Posts: 590 Forumite
    But just to confirm, if i am using 5" stove pipe going to a 5"-6" adaptor through a register plate. I would be looking for a register plate with a 5" hole.

    So would i want the stove pipe to go through the register plate and connect the other side or have the adaptor sitting in the register plate hole so the stove pipe fitted one side and the liner the other?

    (not insulating)
  • lagi wrote: »
    So would i want the stove pipe to go through the register plate and connect the other side or have the adaptor sitting in the register plate hole so the stove pipe fitted one side and the liner the other?

    (not insulating)

    It makes absolutely no difference at all - the stove pipe and the flue liner will create a closed system
  • muckybutt
    muckybutt Posts: 3,761 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture Combo Breaker
    lagi wrote: »
    But just to confirm, if i am using 5" stove pipe going to a 5"-6" adaptor through a register plate. I would be looking for a register plate with a 5" hole.

    So would i want the stove pipe to go through the register plate and connect the other side or have the adaptor sitting in the register plate hole so the stove pipe fitted one side and the liner the other?

    (not insulating)

    Yes you are right, it is normal practice to fit the liner connector on the chimney side of the register plate.

    MOB said earlier that register plates are redundant if you have a liner - well yes in a way they are, but they are still required to be fitted and it is still good practice to make them air tight for obvious reasons.
    You may click thanks if you found my advice useful
  • muckybutt
    muckybutt Posts: 3,761 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture Combo Breaker
    Carry it on throught the register plate is fine and wont cause any problems.

    You have to make sure though that you can still get to sweep the flue from behind the stove, if you cant sweep it from there then you will have to put a access piece in the straight piece.

    No access to sweep and it wont get signed off !

    On Friday I condemned another Hetas install, a stove had been fitted with a t piece and solid pipe like yours but no way in hell could I get access around the side of the stove to get the trap off or even attempt to get a brush and rod up the flue.
    You may click thanks if you found my advice useful
  • A._Badger
    A._Badger Posts: 5,881 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    The one thought that keeps occurring as I read this forum is how far the experts seem to differ, how apparently arbitrary are HETAS's regulations and how little real scientific or engineering research seems to have gone into this subject.

    There are accurate, reliable answers to all these questions but no one seems to be doing the research needed to find out what they are.
  • A._Badger wrote: »
    There are accurate, reliable answers to all these questions but no one seems to be doing the research needed to find out what they are

    That's because the 'technology' has been understood since pre-historic times

    There is no need to complicate things any further...
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