Concerned over the quality of paint finish on my mazda 6!!

atrixblue.-MFR-.

fivetide wrote: »

Really?

Please tell me all about my real life experiences and how you know I'm not doing the same.

5t.

5t, bow out of this one your looking pretty silly arguing your point.

I can see from the photo's theres something very wrong with the paint, from my point of view, acrylic was used as top coat and if its the luguna blue mica they all do that as its not a metallic but a mica and a completely different base coat is used for the pigments.

andygb

fivetide wrote: »

Really?

Please tell me all about my real life experiences and how you know I'm not doing the same.

5t.

Have you ever resprayed a car, and one which still looks good after 5, 10, 15 years?
Do you know anything about paint and its properties?

atrixblue.-MFR-.

andygb wrote: »

Have you ever resprayed a car, and one which still looks good after 5, 10, 15 years?
Do you know anything about paint and its properties?

i used to use 2k clear. being ill i cant do it no more. that stuff apart from cellulose was the hard nut of clears, if you got your prepwork and gun setup good you could get a almost perfect mirror finish and very durable and when polished would give a really deep shine in dark cars.

roddydogs

andygb wrote: »

I am guessing that a good (by someone who knows what they are doing - me) polishing job, using all the fancy clay bars, finishing waxes and the rest, taking four hours, will keep the OP's car looking good for about a week, or until they have to sell it;)
That is the story of Maxda metallic paint, it requires constant TLC, and will not really reward you.

StormyBlue isnt metallic. its Mica, its the Icy light Blue thats metallic, White is pearlescent, Red is solid. I was told that metallic is the best re damage, etc.

atrixblue.-MFR-.

http://www.mazda.com/mazdaspirit/env/production/weton.html

mazda dont use a water based apparently but a three stage wet system with somesort of dispersable barcoat in the primer and low solvent based paints.

i can see a draw a back in this system is that, when the mix is not made to exact spec, or bake times the paint can go really soft all layers are going to be extremely fine! and if the laquer is a low solvent like acrylic based and thin will just add to problems.

in theory the wholse system is good but when a mistake happens at factory and people are humans mistakes happen, the end result can be the paint looks good but not very durable. solid colours i would say the system is nearly perfect, but add a compound such as metalic or mica pigments into the mix and allsorts can arise from it. i now know why that when i see a few mazda's epscialy the the mustard looking colour you can tell when its had a lick of paint to its panels as you cant match a factory spray job the system cant be replacated in a body shop enviroment hence cant get exact match no matter how much you play with the mix of paint.

bikingbarney

could this be why it is only the darker mica and metallic colours suffering.

i believe the metallic red mazda use is just as bad as my paint which is stormy blue mica paint code 35j

atrixblue.-MFR-.

OP. i dont know what your going to do, youve talk'd about repainting the front end, to the trained eye it will be noticeable, a all over respray with 2k primer sealer, polyester basecoat (acrylic),and a 2 k acrylic laquer would be my choice using a slow curing hardener and bake ovened to specs. mica is best mixed with acrylic, as other paints you can only get a certain amount of metalic or mica in them. the result will be a tougher deep shine paint. not what you have now.

i know i said acrylic is not durable as some other types of paint like synthetics, but when built up properly given a good wet layer first, then the rest done at timed intervals, etc you should have a much better paint and mica sun light reaction, flakes will pop out at you and look clear and deep in the paint.

bikingbarney

atrixblue.-MFR-. wrote: »

OP. i dont know what your going to do, youve talk'd about repainting the front end, to the trained eye it will be noticeable, a all over respray with 2k primer sealer, polyester basecoat (acrylic),and a 2 k acrylic laquer would be my choice using a slow curing hardener and bake ovened to specs. mica is best mixed with acrylic, as other paints you can only get a certain amount of metalic or mica in them. the result will be a tougher deep shine paint. not what you have now.

I understand what you are saying but that will cost a fortune which I dont have !!


in what way will it be noticeable?? mismatched paint or because its been applied a different way to how mazda do it??

Ive seen the results(only photos) of an 09 car in the same colour that has been resprayed and it looks like a good match.

atrixblue.-MFR-.

bikingbarney wrote: »

could this be why it is only the darker mica and metallic colours suffering.

i believe the metallic red mazda use is just as bad as my paint which is stormy blue mica paint code 35j

35j is stormy mica, and yes this is why other mica's and metallics have problems in small quantities. if the enviroment and specs are spot on you wont get any trouble with it thats the way the system is designed, but as for human error the peramiters are not there to make a mistake hence why your car may suffer this problem but someone else with the same paint may not.

bikingbarney

this is the flake "popping" on the rear quarter panel.........





it does come up really well when polished but that finish doesnt last long as you start getting swirl marks etc.

it need a tougher top coat!