Very low water pressure on gauge on combi-boiler

Rochdale_Guy

keystone wrote: »

There is a knurled nut which I have marked A.

You can undo that nut (do not use the molegrips you will crush it) and it wil come away from the valve body and will take the float arm (to which the ball is attached) with it.

Inside the valve you will see a round black object - that is the diaphragm. Remove said object including the central plastic bit if it has one, take same to your friendly Toolstation lady. Say I want one of these. Make purchase. return to toilet. Insert new diaphragm the same way round as the one you took out. Replace knurled nut. Turn on water. Feel free to use.

Here is the valve in exploded view:



Yes the nut and the valve body are not the same colour as yours but that doesn't matter. Functionally and mechanically they are the same.

I may regret this but if it were me and it was my own house I'd remove that old valve entirely and replace it with a decent Fluidmaster rather than bu..ering around with it.

Cheers

Tada!!!!!!!!! Silence is golden, all is now fixed!!!

No more noisy flushing fog horn sounding bloody toilet!!!!

Can't believe changing a little black rubber washer (diaphragm?) could make all the difference, cheers so much :beer:

:j :j :j

Oh, it wasn't the one in the picture I included earlier, it was this 0.83p twin pack I actually needed, which works perfectly - touch wood!



:T

MANY THANKS & HAPPY NEW YEAR!


:j :beer: :rotfl: :j :beer: :rotfl: :T

Rochdale_Guy

Owain_Moneysaver wrote: »

It might do.

Try not to drop it in the bottom of the cistern or you may have other difficulties later

Ha ha, I did drop it in the bottom of the tank, but the plastic stick bit, not the rubber washer! Managed to get it out though

Thanks gain everyone!

:beer: :j: :beer: :j: :beer:

Canucklehead

Hi.

At last someone who has actually posted back and proved that you don't need to change a complete ballvalve for the sake of a washer.

:T:T:T:T:T



GSR.

sensibilis

My combi has a white key you turn to open the water fill valve..
You turn it to 1 bar of pressure and close..Bleeding rads will drop pressure of course
best to carry out a couple of times and bleed all rads..
once this is done the heating will work a treat..
if presuure drops again it is more than like ly you have a leaking radiator valve or seal