Very low water pressure on gauge on combi-boiler

Myser

Depending on the type of flush mechanism, it's usually simply a matter of replacing the diaphragm washer on the inlet valve.

Again, may be available from Screwfix or Toolstation depending on the flush mechanism.

michael_nod

one of your friends must have a combi

borrow theirs

Canucklehead

Hi.


See posts 6 and 9.:mad:

Sometimes I could just SCREEEEEEEEEEAM.


That's better.



GSR.

Rochdale_Guy

Morning.

Today I became a MAN, LMAO!!!!

I walked into Toolstation, told the girl what I wanted (like I knew what I was on about!), got my goods, paid for them and marched out.

:rotfl::j:rotfl::j

Ha ha! Welcome to the world of men, power tools and tinkering with things and taking them apart. I can rebuild it! LOL

Cut myself undoing the bloody staple on the packet though, ha ha!

Seriously though, which end do I put which end of the loop on please.

http://www.toolstation.com/images/library/stock/images/35419.jpg

The toilet can wait (don't over tax my poor brain!), as I'm on a mission to get me pressure up tonight after work!

Well, no one else in this office is working today, me typing away here gives the impression I at least am!

Bye for now!



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keystone

Canucklehead wrote: »

Sometimes I could just SCREEEEEEEEEEAM.

Can I join you please? ARRRRRRRRRRGH - yes much better now.

keystone

Rochdale_Guy wrote: »

Cut myself undoing the bloody staple on the packet though, ha ha!

You plonker Rodney.

Seriously though, which end do I put which end of the loop on please.

Seriously though. It doesn't freaking matter.

1. Take filling loop out of package.
2. Unscrew NRV from one end and isolating valve from other end of flexble pipe.
3. Place NRV and isolating valve you have just taken of the flexible pipe in a secure and remote location. You won't need them again in this exercise.
4. Undo stop end (blanking plate if you like) from base of isolating valve attached to your cold feed pipe.
5. Undo stop end from base of NRV attached to your CH return.
6. Attach flexible pipe to both valves.
7. Repressurise as previous instucted.
8. Close isolating valve.
9 . Remove flexible pipe and store in safe and easily remembered location.
10. Replace stop ends.
11. Fire up boiler.
12. End.

The toilet can wait (don't over tax my poor brain!), as I'm on a mission to get me pressure up tonight after work!

Don't even go there. CH has already told you what to do for that.

Finally, please don't post about any form of remotely complex difficulty you might be having with the boiler. Get someone in. It will be easier on everyones nerves including your own.

Cheers

keystone

Rochdale_Guy wrote: »

What IS your sig pic?

Its a penguin about to wake a sleeping polar bear with a pair of cymbals. You may need to think about it. Why?

Cheers

Owain_Moneysaver

keystone wrote: »

1. Take filling loop out of package.
2. Unscrew NRV from one end and isolating valve from other end of flexble pipe.
3. Place NRV and isolating valve you have just taken of the flexible pipe in a secure and remote location. You won't need them again in this exercise.
4. Undo stop end (blanking plate if you like) from base of isolating valve attached to your cold feed pipe.
5. Undo stop end from base of NRV attached to your CH return.

At this point radiator water will squirt out of the system until it depressurises. Radiator water may be sludgy and this can cause indelible staining to carpets.

keystone wrote: »

6. Attach flexible pipe to both valves.
7. Repressurise as previous instucted.
8. Close isolating valve.
9 . Remove flexible pipe and store in safe and easily remembered location.

There's a problem here. The water will squirt back out again. There needs to be an isolating valve on this pipe too.

keystone wrote: »

10. Replace stop ends.
11. Fire up boiler.
12. End.

Canucklehead

Owain_Moneysaver wrote: »

At this point radiator water will squirt out of the system until it depressurises. Radiator water may be sludgy and this can cause indelible staining to carpets.



There's a problem here. The water will squirt back out again. There needs to be an isolating valve on this pipe too.

I suspect this is why the council don't like people fiddling with rad vents and filling loops ......people don't know how it works, but think they do, and screw up.

The valve on the right is a non return check valve. The clue is in the name.


GSR.

keystone

Owain_Moneysaver wrote: »

At this point radiator water will squirt out of the system until it depressurises. Radiator water may be sludgy and this can cause indelible staining to carpets.

There's a problem here. The water will squirt back out again. There needs to be an isolating valve on this pipe too.

Umm - its a non return valve. As CH says there is a clue in the name. He may well get cruddy water out of it if he undoes the exterior hexagonal nut (which holds the internal gubbins in place) in the centre of the valve which is why I told him to leave it alone.

Common sense dictates that there will always be the possibility of a small amount of water when a union is undone. You take appropriate precautions.

Cheers