What to look for in a Wood / Multifuel Burner?

hethmar

No sarcasm intended, but the Buildings Control inspector must be working virtually full time for you then?

crphillips

welda wrote: »

When you state one brand failing compared to another brand, is this due to gauge thickness, or the way liner is manufactured? When I viewed my liner for first time, I did think it is very clever how this stuff is put together, especially when thinking back how much stress I put on mine while we were furiously hauling it down the stack!

It's not down to the thickness of material...pretty much every liner on the market uses 0.12mm thick 316 stainless steel in it's construction.......it's down to how it is assembled. You'll notice that the inside spirals of metal overlap each other......the way one liner differs from another is the amount of overlap......Specflue's liner has so much over lap that it is actually triple layered in places whereas another leading brands is barely double layered......the other reason people don't use better liner other than through cheapness is because the better stuff which uses more material is generally a lot heavier and stiffer which makes it much harder to get down the flue. The better liner is worth the extra agro getting it down the flue though.....i'd rather have a harder time and do it once than have an easy time and do it twice.

I've had to pull two liners out and replace for free back when i was using the other brand and i haven't had any problems since switching brands.

Well worth the xtra.

crphillips

woodstoveman wrote: »

The actual installation is very simple and should never cost you more than £150.00 maximum including sign off under whatever the installer wants to be registered with (does not have to be HETAS, can be any of a great no of organisations all claiming they can guarantee your safety (they can't). Any other work, rendering, plastering etc. would obviously be extra.

£150 for a full install.....hmm.....you must get your liner, vitreous, cowls, carbon monoxide alarms, air vents, adapters, sheet steel, stove paint, fire cement, rivets, screws, ceramic fibre rope, fuel, vans, insurance, tools........etc.....very cheap! I couldn't buy the bits to for anywhere near £150......also to have it signed off by building control is usually £80 minimum and can be £150 in some areas. Are you using 5 years old Indian boys for labour and stealing the components? Or is £150 pure labour with no parts? 2 men, £150......£75 each.........would you be self employed and have all that agro for £75 a day? You can earn that just about anywhere! I have two teams of fitters with around £60,000.00 worth of gear......my premises are around £700 a month.......what a joke.

Check out my video of a guy who had his installed by a non-HETAS registered stove fitter......not good.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vcaHK9CMTP4

welda

Good informative reply, I think I purchased my liner from the flu factory??

I found the price fair, although not the cheapest, from what you say, I reckon these shops should state overlap dimensions, as of course I see the wisdom in having a decent overlap.

As for stiffness, at one point we really toiled to get round a bend approx 3 metre from hearth, I basically had to knock up a paddle like tool from ali with a swept back feature to assist liner round bend, I think outer joints were snagging on stone work?

Here was me flat on my back in dining room, head in hearth, welding hood on minus dark lens glass, one arm/hand maneuvering paddle on pole inside chimney, other hand pulling on rope, old lime/mortar falling on my hood, if liner was any stiffer, I reckon we have been close to calling it a day!!!!!

Happy dayz when I got the end of liner in my mitt :j:j

Viewed the clip, cowboys everywhere, including fab/weld game..........unfortunately!

hethmar

cr I think he is talking about installation solely of the appliance, not the lining. (SURELY he is?).

The fact we had to return all the liners we received that were "cheaper" because of dents and internal leafing would make me wonder who on earth is using this cheap carp, but I guess there is always someone willing to do the job cheaply. They are normally out of business in a few years and the customer is then on his own to sort it out.

I find it hard to believe that this time of year, the local Buildings Control would have someone on hand to go out before the job (as required) and then return to examine the installation and sign off every time. As I said, for just our firm we would have the bloke on the go every day virtually

Welda, we would normally remove that sharp bend before lining the flueway.

hethmar

Lovely job with the Morso and the mild steel and stove paint looks great.

welda

hethmar wrote: »

Welda, we would normally remove that sharp bend before lining the flueway.

At approx 3 metre max high from bottom of hearth how would you remove bend? I'd also be worried for the building point of view (nothing to do with me doubting your work and skill) building is over 250 yo, needs lots of tlc.

Where theres a will, theres a way, was hard graft and well worth the hassle

crphillips

welda wrote: »

Good informative reply, I think I purchased my liner from the flu factory??

I found the price fair, although not the cheapest, from what you say, I reckon these shops should state overlap dimensions, as of course I see the wisdom in having a decent overlap.

As for stiffness, at one point we really toiled to get round a bend approx 3 metre from hearth, I basically had to knock up a paddle like tool from ali with a swept back feature to assist liner round bend, I think outer joints were snagging on stone work?

Here was me flat on my back in dining room, head in hearth, welding hood on minus dark lens glass, one arm/hand maneuvering paddle on pole inside chimney, other hand pulling on rope, old lime/mortar falling on my hood, if liner was any stiffer, I reckon we have been close to calling it a day!!!!!

Happy dayz when I got the end of liner in my mitt :j:j

Viewed the clip, cowboys everywhere, including fab/weld game..........unfortunately!

Most of the time the liners are easy to get down but every now and then you get a real bad 'un. A coring ball, rope, nose cone and a long length of 2" x 4" timber to lever against the lintel make easy work of it though.

welda

I would have used a nice satin finish stainless sheet, be nice to view after a while with rainbows and the like burnishing the sheet from the super heat from stove!

crphillips

hethmar wrote: »

Lovely job with the Morso and the mild steel and stove paint looks great.

Yeah......i wouldn't normally put mild steel behind but the guy who did the fireplace hadn't left enough room for me to do anything else........i didn't want to loose any depth from the fireplace but needed something that looked good and was fireproof. the mild steel painted white worked a treat and looked great.