Help with Bearded Dragons- Urgent!!!

elle45

Does anyone know about bearded dragon lizards!! My oh has bought two 9 days ago. They now seem to be dying!! He has done all the right things!! He has been back to the shop but they are not helpful at all!! The lizards are just laying there and are not eating!! Can anyone help please!!

frivolous_fay

Anything here that you didn't know?

http://www.videojug.com/film/how-to-care-for-bearded-dragons

elsien

You need proper advice from someone who knows what they're doing, rather than from the shop.
Can you contact either a vet with reptile knowledge, or is there any sort of reptile sanctuary in your area that might have more expert information?
I know nothing about them, but are they drinking or are they becoming dehydrated, in which case I'm guessing you need help fast.
Also, if the shop doesn't seem to have a clue, you should report them as they obviously shouldn't be selling things they know nothing about.

frugallass

Some animals take a while to get used to their new surroundings and may take a while to feel comfortable enough to eat. My frogs could go weeks without eating if they had to.

Let us know how you get on.

frugallass

just found this......

HOUSING:

Baby/Juvenile (0-12 months)
A Minimum of a 20 gallon long (30 1/4 x 12 1/2 x 12 3/4) tank is needed is achieve a reasonable gradient of temperatures. Aggressive tendencies, injuries and other complications such as the loss of limbs and tails and even death have been noted when attempting to house more than one dragon together.

Adult (12 months +)
A minimum size of 36" x 18" with 48" x 24" or larger being preferable, and a height between 18" and 24" is required to house one adult.

Bearded dragons are not social creatures by nature and only gather together for mating purposes. Aggressive tendencies, injuries and other complications have been noted when attempting to house more than one dragon together.


SUBSTRATES:

Substrates are a highly debated topic among experienced owners, keepers and breeders. Opinions vary with experience and skill.
With that said......babies are safely raised on a non particle substrate material such as reptile carpet, shelf liner, butcher paper, paper towels, or ceramic tiles. Non particle substrates hold no chance of contributing to impaction.

Adults may use any of the above mentioned substrates and can also safely live on sifted washed playsand purchased from your local retail store or hardware store. Avoid all pet store substrates.

When fed on particle substrates, the new owner should understand that the consumption of substrate material is possible and all live prey should be fed in a separate container.

FEEDING:

Baby/Juvenile
They should be fed a ratio of 80% protein and 20% greens. This breaks down to feeding a baby 2-3x a day as many crickets as they can eat in 10 minutes. The crickets should be no bigger than the space between a beardie's eyes. If feeding in the same tank as the beardie is living in, all uneaten crickets should be removed. Make sure that one feeding a day (6 days) is dusted with a calcium dust. This dust should have d3 and should be phosphorus free. On the 7th day make sure you dust one feeding of crickets with a multivitamin. Offer a fresh variety of greens daily. Examples of greens...dandelions, chicory, bok choy, swiss chard, escarole, there are many more. NO lettuce of any kind should be fed. Fruits can be given as a treat once a week. NO citric. It usually take a while for babies to adjust to greens, keep trying as they will eventually eat them.

Adult
Their ratio should be 80% greens 20% protein. This breaks down to about 15-25 crickets a week. You can feed them all in one day or broken up between a couple, whichever is better for the owner and dragon. Dust with calcium one week then dust with a multivitamin the next. Offer a fresh variety of greens. The same as above, but they should be eating much more. Make sure that there is enough greens for an adult beardie.

HYDRATION:

It is very important to keep your dragon well hydrated. This can be done in several ways. Dragons get a lot of their needed moisture through the foods they eat so it is a good idea to mist the greens and veggies that you feed your dragon. Some dragons will drink from a water bowl but many will not so it is up to the individual keeper to find out if their dragon will or not. Many dragons do just fine with no water bowl in their tank. Most keepers will bath or soak their dragons 3 or 4 times a week for about 15-20 minutes in water that is shoulder deep and between 90-100 degrees. Some like it a little cooler some a little hotter. The last method would be misting your dragon. Misting is of questionable benefit but dragons may lick up water that is misted on their head and drips to their lips. Misting is probably most beneficial when the dragon is in shed and the mist will help moisten and loosen the shedding skin.

LIGHTING/HEAT/TEMPERATURES:

Baby/Juvenile
UVA lighting provides heat in the form of indoor flood lights, reptile bulbs or typical household bulbs. The wattage of the bulb required to reach proper basking temperatures of 110-115* (see Measuring Temps section below) for a baby depends on the size of the tank, the ambient temperature inside your house, cage decor and it's proximity to the basking site. Heat bulbs and UVB bulbs should be set up by a timer available at your local hardware store. They should be set for a basic 14/10 day. There should be a good gradient temp between the basking site and the cool end. The ambient temperature for the cool side should be 70-85F with the temp closer to 85F for a baby.

UVB lighting provides rays essential for good physical and mental health. UVB fixtures should be no less than 18 inches long and should be placed directly on top of the screen top so that the dragon can get within 6-8 inches of the light. Longer fixtures reaching the length of the tank will help ensure good exposure. Some fixtures come with a plastic lens over the bulb that should be removed before using.

Adult
UVA lighting provides heat in the form of indoor flood lights, reptile bulbs or typical household bulbs. The wattage of the bulb required to reach proper basking temperatures of 110-115* (see Measuring Temps section below) for a dragon depends on the size of the tank, the ambient temperature inside your house, cage decor and it's proximity to the basking site. Heat bulbs and UVB bulbs should be set up by a timer available at your local hardware store. They should be set for a basic 14/10 day. There should be a good gradient temp between the basking site and the cool end. The ambient temperature of the cool side should be 70-85F with the temp being closer to 80F for an adult.

UVB lighting provides rays essential for good physical and mental health. UVB fixtures should be no less than 18 inches long and should be placed directly on top of the screen top so that the dragon can get within 6-8 inches of the light. Longer fixtures reaching the length of the tank will help ensure good exposure. Some fixtures come with a plastic lens over the bulb that should be removed before using.

Measuring Temps

There are two methods to measure basking surface temps. The first is with a digital thermometer with a probe. Using this method you place the probe of the digital thermometer directly on the hottest spot of the basking surface. Remember we are trying to read the surface temp not the air temp. Care must be taken to ensure the probe is in direct firm contact with the surface and that the thermometer has had long enough time to reach the maximum temp, this may take several minutes depending on the digital thermometer.

The second method is the best and fastest way. Using an infra red temp gun is more accurate and much faster. You simply point the temp gun at the basking surface and push the button. The temp gun gives you an instant and accurate reading of the surface temp of the basking area.

All temperatures should be accurately measured with a digital thermometer or temp gun. All other forms of measurement may be as much as 20 degrees off.

UVB LIGHTING SUGGESTIONS:

Repti Sun 10.0
Mercury Vapor Bulbs
Arcadia D3+ 12% Reptile

SUPPLEMENT SUGGESTIONS:

Calcium
Rep-cal Phosphate free w/d3
Absolute Calcium
Minerall
Calypso

Pepsi35_2

Hi
Are they babies or older ? have you checked temps ? what size crickets are you feeding if they are to big they can have a bad effect like paraylasis of the back legs - are they dehydrated ? you could try bathing them, make sure the water is only just warm as water is very much hotter to reps than it is to us - beware bathing makes them poop ! I have got 2 beadies they are around 4 years old now touch wood never had any probs with them - never give them iceburg lettuce gives them trots ! i use bags of mixed lettuce as I said avoid iceburg - Beardies love to have a daliy missing of water with a plant sprayer - they are suppose to NOT to beable to reconize still water but mine do sometime drink from a bowl - there are several reptile forums on here you could chat with other owners Redtailboa.net is a good one - have you got the correct heating a lighting ? remember to add calcium to their food to stop bone disease - let us know how they are may be worth the vet checkin them out to make sure they do not have any sort of parasites - it is worth making sure you have a reptile vet in you area for peice of mind . Bloomin pet shops they should have knowledge and understanding of the animals they sell - ! Growl
Good Luck Sharon x

LillyJ

Take them to the vet! There must be a vet with some knowledge of reptiles, and even if they don't they would be able to give better advice than the pet shop.
Hope they get better soon.

narabanekeater

are they doing little shakes
especially round the head area
Do they have a raised temp basking area?
Have they eaten at all?

Jellicat

Reptiles will often refuse to eat for a long time...and as for laying around all the time...thats what lizards do! They are very sedentary animals. More info about their age, what you are feeding them on, temperatures, etc would be helpful too. If you are doing everything right you may be overreacting, I done the same thing with mine when I first got him. If they're not eating they may be too cold, or maybe their tank is too big and they feel stressed? Let us know more about them and we might be able to help. And phone a vet if you are seriously worried.

frugallass

any updates elle45?

snowman2_2

Thanks Frugallass for a great post above. I agree with everything there except that UVA gives no heat (that is infrared - at the other end of the light spectrum). UVA is important as a mood enhancing light but it is UVB that is vital. I personally suggest a water bath daily, it doesn't do any harm and we see a lot of dehydrated reptiles. Lukewarm water - like a baby's bath with a reasonable depth, a dribble is a waste of time. They do usually pass urates and faeces which is very handy and certainly not a problem.

It is also best to attach the heat lamp to a thermostat so you can maintain the temperature, even if the room temperature changes with the weather (and overnight). They are about £50 and most come with a 5 year guarantee. I like ceramic heat bulbs - plenty of heat but no light.
Adults will vary in the proportion of veg and insects from 25 - 75% of each. A good variety of insects and dark, green leafy veg, topped off with a good supplement such as Nutrobal or Vionate. Some of the calcium sprays have such little calcium, you would be best of spraying milk!

Other than that I would see a decent reptile vet.